Any woodworkers?

Odd request:

Looking for a wood filler that is pretty tough (stays put), dries hard, soaks up stain more than surrounding wood. Any suggestions?

 

My go to is to use a sawdust and glue combination (the wood that you're using). Mix it up and fill your gaps. I use Titebond III for dark woods (because the glue is dark already) and cyanilate glues, or even Elmers for light wood. The amount of sawdust you put into the mix will determine how much stain you're absorbing.

I've also been using "Famowood", which you can get on Amazon, if I'm filling Maple - because I have found the match to be quite good and the stuff is very usable.

 

Ah! I've done this before - in fact for years, but maybe too much glue, not enough sawdust. Seems like not much stain absorbed. Will try. Thanks!

 

A restoration guy that I know puts CA glue into the crack and then follows it with sawdust to fill. Then he hits it with the accelerant and can sand right away. Works really well. I don't know how durable it is, but it fills beautifully.

 

So...the problem you're trying to overcome is that, you fill and then, when you stain, the fill is not the same color as the wood around it? Have you considered a patch?

 

No.

For artistic- antique fake look- I want it actually a bit darker

 

Try Titebond III as the glue. I think you'll like that result. It definitely will be darker

 

Excellent, plus I may compare to your recommended Famowood in a darker color. Thanks!

 

Great. Let me know how it works out for you...

 

How dark are you going? Maybe mix some powdered color dye mix with the glue

 

Not black, more like deep walnut in red oak and medium cherry. I need to experiment a little. I'll post pictures at some point. Too dman cold, avoiding heating the shop right now.

 

Epoxy with the colored dye powder can make it any color.

 

You can get some Minwax Jet Black stain and mix a few drops into a dark walnut stain - or a walnut/cherry mixture and it will add darkness, but still let the color through. You don't need a lot of it to make a big difference.

I've been known to take an eye dropper to get proportions of stains mixed in a Dixie cup for a sample of the wood I'm going to finish (sanded just like the final piece) --- and then mix that proportion for as much as actually needed. Works pretty well.

 

Yes. This is how I made my new USA stock for my AK a very nice bright deep red but still see some grain. This was a water based, powder stain. Wear gloves!!

 

Work PC flagged your site as "unsafe," so naturally I pulled it up on my phone. I now see that you've got quite a porn site!

Edited to add: this was entirely a joke. My work PC doesn't allow me on most sites (not just GJM's) that aren't work related. Its most definitely not a porn site, and the site is surely safe. Just a joke to say "the quality of workmanship is so aesthetically pleasing."

 

Sarcasm

 

Ah...tough to hear sarcasm when you're reading. Just so no one thinks the site is unsafe! I like having folks go to it.

 

It was a failed attempt at a joke, sorry. Your site is blocked on my work PC (as are most every other site); I was saying that your work is exceptional, some may even say wood-porn for us non-woodworking fellas. Fantastic work.

 

What is the simplest reliable way to tell if a piece of wood is dry enough to stain and seal?