Any woodworkers?

I put them on bigger board, just seem to not slip. The smaller ones seem to do better just laying flat.

 

Just checked the board on a known-flat surface ... no wobble. I need to make finger grooves, then.

 

One last look before this ships out ... oiled and waxed, finger grooves underside (mostly not burned grooves). Epoxy letters are the best I have achieved so far.

 

No shipping today. Put in the car (warm today), stopped by wood store for practice strips to play with end-grain tiling ... found the cherry strip in the board was bleeding board oil through the wax (I assume oil through the wax instead of the wax melting). Hmmm .... gave it 24 hours to absorb and did remove excess. See how things progress tonight.

 

All this talk about finger grooves and such... i did something different on this board... seemed to work out OK.

 

I think the oil you're using days to wipe off excess after 20 minutes and in a new board oil it 3 to 4 times. What wax are you using?

 

Walrus, oil and wax.

I might need to find a container to hold enough the 17 in long board and walrus oil to dunk it ... did not have the "vat" or the larger volume of oil to do it before. The ones I shipped a couple of weeks ago did not act like this (not that I recall), but they had some days delay to ship because he was out of town.

I did wipe this board down enough that the surface was not obviously wet before waxing.

Moved it into the warm garage to see if heat is a factor.

 

Thats nice! Did you use router?

 

This thread is full of wonderful ideas!

 

Disregard my previous statement about the oil.. I thought you were using a different brand. I've never had one bleed through but I let them sit for days most of the time.

Used the router table for both the 45 degree edges and the 90 degree v grooves. I chose the 90 over the 60 because it was easier to sand the 90 with a scrap wood block.

 

Clearly I need to let this one sit in AC for a few more days. The bleeding seems to have stopped so may maybe the cherry just was pushing excess out.

No router table here, but I can try that when I make a thicker board than 3/4 in.

 

I have cut a 45° on 3/4 board. Maybe 1/4" off the bottom gave it a good look

 

Started off with a cheap Harbor Freight chisle, rubber mallet and small pry bar to remover the remaining bark.



I use this paint scraper as a glue scraper when I'm gluing cutting boards together, but it worked wonders getting the fibrous layer between the bark and the solid wood off.



The i used this nylon brush on the cordless drill to knock off any othe loose stuff.



After sitting in the sun all day, I can see that I have to work with now... still pondering a multitude of ideas though.

 

Next board maybe. I would need to buy a 1/4 in chamfer bit though. Time to play with getting consistent 1.75x1.75 tiles that make a good end-grain tile pattern ... technique needs to be developed on that to make a different type.

 

I just used table saw

 

That should be epic!

 

This board is only 7/8 thick and I set the 45 at 1/8th inch. I like knocking the corners off too, but I wanted to keep the sharp corners on the V grooved board.

 

No table saw. My circular saw is 2 decades old. The router was my latest step into tools that are not primitive. I once was making dados other joints with a circular saw, like this cut in the base of a table leg to allow a cross-piece to get halfway through the 2x2 as a base-cross. Worked well enough for me, but scary how much control I had to exercise ...

 

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