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Anybody here replace their clutch or throw out bearing yet?

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by saugus, Oct 28, 2012.

  1. Oct 29, 2012 at 9:41 PM
    #21
    landphil

    landphil Wishin' I was Fishin'

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    OK, I finally clicked joes05tacoma's link, to find out you are the guy, now I feel dumb. Oh well, I'm used to it. Looks like a combination of good truck, good driver, and good maintenance to me, well done!
     
  2. Oct 30, 2012 at 9:20 AM
    #22
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Motorsports

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    hahaha .... U said poppy :D




    I hope they r not still selling that part. :eek:
     
  3. Oct 30, 2012 at 9:40 AM
    #23
    clcoyle

    clcoyle Well-Known Member

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  4. Oct 30, 2012 at 7:24 PM
    #24
    saugus

    saugus [OP] Well-Known Member

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    O.k. now I'm a little lost. I just got my Aison kit and noticed that there was no pilot bearing inside. All of the pics on ebay or whatever of the kit number show one included like this pic,

    [​IMG]

    but it never came inside the box and wasn't listed on the contents. The description on the website said 1- pilot bearing (if needed). So I'm wondering if it is necessary to change it in the first place. My repair guide shows an input shaft bearing. I looked around on the internet and can't figure out what to order or if I need to replace it in the first place. Any ideas?

    [​IMG]
     
  5. Oct 30, 2012 at 7:45 PM
    #25
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Motorsports

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    I'm assuming the pilot bearing is the throw out bearing. No u do not HAVE to replace it with a new clutch. Yes it is a good idea though because it would be kinda dumb if u just put ur new clutch in and then u have to do it all again because now ur throw out bearing is bad. But having said that, most new clutches don't come with a new TOB and they are usually about $60
     
  6. Oct 30, 2012 at 8:55 PM
    #26
    saugus

    saugus [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I'm all confused now. :confused: I was watching some 1st gen clutch videos and assumed there was a pilot valve on the 2nd gen to replace. I guess that input shaft bearing in my repair guide is something else. I did get the clutch release bearing aka throw out bearing with the kit though.
     
  7. Oct 31, 2012 at 7:35 AM
    #27
    allmotorrex

    allmotorrex Grove St. Motorsports

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    4.88s w/h rear Powertrax locker, Fox 2.5 Ext. RR COs, Camburg 1.25” ucas, Fox 12" smooth body RR, BAMF shock kit, AP 3" springs, ext. brake lines, 315/75/16 BFG KM2, AP 1.5" spacers, 16x8 Pro Comp wheels, BFF front hybrid, GSM rear HC, Relentless Fab ifs skid, BAMF lca skids, BAMF k/o sliders, X2O 10K comp. winch, TP glass fenders, OKled 20"bar, EBS dimpled/slotted rotors, EBS green pads, K&N 63 CAI, LCE headers, FM Super 44 w/h turn down, URD MAF cali., LCE Dual Comp clutch, URD ss, TMPer M1 Abrams shift knob, Amsoil oil, Cobra 75wxst w/h 4' firestix, ARB compressor, Grillcraft, FXR TRS, T1 eyelids, 500 hellas w/h 6k hid conv., custom ADV Monster model 60 lights, bed lights, speedo light mod, Glow Shift volt/oil pres gauges, Glow shift 2g column pod, Optima yellow tops dual battery setup w/h IBS system, Pioneer DEH-P7200HD head unit, Pioneer 600W 4ch & 350w 2ch amps for doors and sub, Wet Oakle covers, Weather Tech
    Yeah I don't know of this pilot valve u speak of. The only things u should be replacing are the TOB, pressure plate, and clutch disk. Read through that write up briefly in my sig, that should be everything u need to do
     
  8. Oct 31, 2012 at 7:39 AM
    #28
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    [​IMG]



    The pilot bearing is the "input shaft bearing", not the TOB. I recommend replacing that every time, as that is what the tip of your transmission's input shaft rides in. I have yet to run into a 1st or 2nd gen Tacoma that does not have one.
     
  9. Oct 31, 2012 at 8:46 PM
    #29
    landphil

    landphil Wishin' I was Fishin'

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    You haven't done a 1GR / 6spd clutch yet then, there isn't even a "nose" on the input shaft. Thats in my '06

    I can't say for the 4 banger / 5 spd crowd though, and I certainly agree, if it has a pilot bearing, replace it, every time, and replace the release bearing (AKA throw out bearing) every time.

    Edit, looking at allmotorex's photos in his link, the 2TR 4cyl / 5 spds do use a pilot bearing.
     
  10. Nov 1, 2012 at 7:53 AM
    #30
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 ASE Master Tech Vendor

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    Not yet I haven't run into one. done a lot of clutches on all sorts of trucks over the years though. I have seen a few front wheel drive cars that don't have pilots, but not a truck that I can recall.
     
  11. Nov 1, 2012 at 9:29 AM
    #31
    saugus

    saugus [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I wasn't sure what this was in the photo:
    [​IMG]

    Anyway the pilot bearing is only $8 at the dealer so I ordered it. Autozone has a puller for $15 that I'll buy if the wire hanger tool I plan to use doesn't work. I'll get a few pics when I tear down to show the damage and obstacles.
     
  12. Nov 1, 2012 at 11:44 AM
    #32
    BamaToy1997

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    Wire hanger tool won't do it. That bearing is press-fit. It requires a puller (as you mentioned) to remove it. Installation can be done with a socket of the proper size, but be careful that you don't damage the race, as it is easily distorted.
     
  13. Nov 1, 2012 at 5:44 PM
    #33
    landphil

    landphil Wishin' I was Fishin'

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    'Twas a first for me as well.:cool:
     
  14. Nov 1, 2012 at 5:47 PM
    #34
    Steves104x4

    Steves104x4 Well-Known Member

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    BUCKLE UP! It makes it harder for Aliens to pull you out of your Truck.
  15. Nov 1, 2012 at 5:58 PM
    #35
    landphil

    landphil Wishin' I was Fishin'

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    There is another way to remove a pilot bearing, provided the bearing with seals are fully intact. Locate a steel pin or cut off bolt (use smooth shank) that fits the bore of the bearing as snugly as posssible, then add a wrap or two of electrical tape as needed for a good snug fit, so you can just push it into the bore by hand. Pack the entire pocket behind the bearing and the bearing bore with the thickest grease you have, EP2 should work. Ideally, you don't want any air left. Then, hammer the pin into the bore that is packed with grease. The bearing will be forced out toward you by the grease, much like a hydraulic cylinder. You will have to top up the grease a few times as the pin bottoms in the pocket. Clean the grease out when you're done, and you've got it made. Of couse, it won't work if the seals are shot, and a good puller is faster and a good investment if you do more than the occasional clutch.
     
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