Anyone do a lightweight build?

Its easy to get a highly capable rig built with quality plate bumpers, skids, lifts, winch, bed cap, etc. However, the more you add, the more you weigh, the more power you need to move through trails/rocks and the greater risk of breaking something trying to move that weight through whatevers in your way.

I finally got mine out the trails last weekend and was very surprised by how capable it was in stock form. The went through alot of off-camber hills, over and around decent sized rocks and made a few hill climbs that were very steep and loose. Even with the 2.7L, in 4Lo it kept on crawling no matter where I pointed it at. That being said, there's always room for improvement.

Looking ahead, I will be getting skids, bumpers, a lift and winch, tires, etc. In looking around though, the weight really begins to add up. I won't skimp on the skids but beyond that, the possibilities open up.

Has anyone else done a lightweight build and would you do anything differently?

 

You pretty much have 2 direction to go, stock'ish - parts to save weight or armored and heavy.

Gearing/lockers/winch will do 90% of everything 99% of people do.

 

Tube rear bumper, sliders, trim the stock front, and full skids. Also you can consider All-pros aluminum series products. If you need to add weight it needs to be in recovery parts and underbelly protection. Spend the rest on gears and lockers. Also consider the weight savings of smaller tires.

Check out BuzzardsGottaEat's pickup build in the Other Builds section. He stayed lightweight

 

I've got the sliders on which added 80lbs. If I get a tube rear bumper with intregal receiver, I can ditch the arfermarket receiver and probably save 50lbs. Skids will add close to 150lbs. Winch/front bumper will add about another 100lbs. Rough math for all of this adds about 275lbs.

As for tires/wheels, I'd like to get some steel d holes which will only add 10lbs per wheel. For tires, I'm thinking 31x10.5 (which I have now) but may go 31x9.5. Dunno on tires yet but I kinda like the tall/skinny look on these trucks.

For gearing, assuming I stick with 31's, I'll regear to 4.10 with an ARB front/rear. Getting a larger ARB compressor will weigh more but is a tradeoff to a tank for tire filling.

Granted, these are pipe dreams right now. We'll see how this pans out.

 

A front winch bumper and winch is more than 100lbs. Consider trimming the front like 4WD did and adding a front reviever. Get a winch cradle and winch so you can use it front or rear. By the time you add a rear bumper and remove the hitch you'll be about the same.

Steel wheels are a lot more than 10lbs a piece. Your looking at mid 20s. Weight matters most on your wheels and tires because that is whatyyphr actually turning. Go alloy if your worried about it.

Tall skinny is a good idea. Consider 16" wheels and a 235/85.

More ideas: Get rid of the tailgate, by lightweight seat like corbeau, tube doors for wheeling days.

Your not gonna get real heavy till you a swing out tire carriers with two fuel cans hilift. Then built a bed rack with a RTT etc. Plus throw in a whole bunch of extra parts, fluids, a cooler, camping gear, etc and youve got yourself a heavy rig.

 

Ideally I'd go with aluminum plate bumper front and rear and aluminum skid plates.

I don't bash the hell out of my truck (or try not to) and don't intend on wheeling insane rock crawling trails. This is my DD after all.

So aluminum skids et al will serve me just fine rather than steel.

 

I've thought about a front hitch and portable winch but how the the approach angle and does it effect placement of the skids?

 

I weigh in at 4250lbs with me in it and full tank. That's pretty good considering it's a truck. 3/16" skids including flat belly transfer case and tranny skid. Sliders, Tube bumper, winch with synthetic line. Full sized spare, and shovel in the back. Bobbed the box and got rid of the bumper and hitch. That freed up ~150lbs. Boxed the frame ends with 3/16" plate and made a home made rear recovery point out of 2.5" square tube.

Low, wide, short and light. Perfect for the rocks

image by Tanner Tucker, on Flickr

 

These are great trucks stock, I ran mine stock for the first 4-5 years and it was great. Good tires and skillful driving is what matters. You can get a mild, lightweight lift option and maybe some sliders or skids if you need extra protection, but that's really all you need for 90% of normal wheeling most people do. Or, you can sink $3000-$5000 into cool gear and gain that extra 5-6%. Worth it?

My philosophy is if it aint broken don't fix it. In other words, if you screw up your front bumper, THEN go ahead and get that tube replacement. Same with the rear. If you keep getting stuck all the time THEN go ahead and get that winch. I don't see the point of automatically slapping a bunch of shit on your truck just because.

If you're just doing basic 4x4, you really don't need to go that far past stock on these trucks. Some people are hobbyists and build their stuff up, but don't be pressured!

 

It's not like you leave it on all the time

 

Your style of a build pretty much agrees with mine. I used to have a Rubicon rig (33's , crawl box, 5" of lift, lockers, skids, sliders, bumpers) so its hard not to follow the same path. I've decided to just to a moderate build, what some would call a 'sleeper' (as much capability as I can, while looking stock). I've spent a lot, but you can't really tell by looking at it, except for the sliders.

I like the idea of saving weight, especially up front, our trucks are already too heavy up front.

Since I'm staying with the stock-size 31" tires, skids are more important to me. I'm keeping the stock skids, since they do provide some protection, and can replace them, if they get too boogered up. You can go with aluminum or 1/8" steel skids to save some weight. However, since I have an auto tranny, I've installed a tranny skid, and home-made lite-weight extension for a TC skid.

Aftermarket bumpers add protection, but do NOT add off-road ability, and are much heavier than stock, much more than they really need to be. For now, stock works for me.

The slipping action of the torque converter kinda makes up for not having lower gears.

 

You will have to mount a front receiver, so + weight and you'll have to modify the skids.

As far as approach angle, try strapping a couch to your front bumper and see how you do!

 

I love light weight builds. I think it is an awesome idea. I have a stock truck with a camper shell and ARB bumper. heavy choices, but the topper doubles as my sleeping system. I have a sleeping platform and have my light weight backpacking gear underneath. I can fit everything I need for a multi day trip into my truck without the need for a roof rack, RTT, or trailer. This is obviously only for two people, but I have a 3 person tent for other people if need be.







I don't picture adding much more than sliders and a synthetic line winch. Definitely covers all of my needs, but then again, I don't go hardcore wheeling.

 

How does an "off road" front bumper not add "off road-ability"???

I gained IMMENSE amounts of approach angle compared to the shitty stock bumper. An "offroad" bumper carries a winch (yes I'm aware you can fit a winch Into the stock bumper between the frame rails), is much more convenient for recovery, and let's face it. Can take a harder hit than the stock bumper.

Is the stock bumper good for everyday street driving and mild trails. Yes. Does it offer just as much as a tube bumper or plate. Heck no

 

As others have stated and as I found out this weekend, in stock form this thing is amazingly capable. I did install sliders which were invaluable. I slammed them down on some rocks a few times and used the kickouts to steer me around some tight turns.

I don't really like the looks of tube bumpers but they are considerably lighter vs. plate bumpers and do allow incredible approach/departure angles. Likewise, I know you take a receiver hitch winch off when not in use but the receiver does hang low and in front of the IFS skid which is why I was asking about the clearance.

I'm giving serious thought to getting a receiver winch as that'll allow me to winch from the front or back but I'm also of the "Don't fix what ain't broke" school. I haven't gotten stuck yet so there's no immediate need for a winch.

As for skids, there were a few areas I didn't get into specifically because of the lack of them. I have no problems slamming and dragging my way through something but need/want protection first. This is my DD after all...

Which leaves me to the final reason in trying to build lightweight...performance. It'll see pavement 90-95% of the time but when I do get it to an off-road park, I want to push me and the truck to its limits then drive it home afterwards.

 

Look into alternative materials for maintaining a light weight vehicle while fully armored. this will be a lot easier if you are a capable fabricator, or at the very least, willing to learn, and make the investment for the needed tools. front bumpers, rear bumpers, and a few of the skids can be purchased in aluminum versions, that only slightly increase the weight over stock. ther are a couple of skids that are not offered in aluminum, meaning you will have to make your own, or go with the heavier steel version.

You can also look into UHMW sheets for certain armor components. they will still need a sub-frame to support them, but when designed properly, you can save weight.

Sliders on the other hand, don't try to save weight on. get the big beefy, thick walled DOM monsters for that. only real way to save a substantial amount of weight on rocker panel protection is to do a light duty boat side, but that's a whole new can of worms.

when it comes down to it, second to switching bumper and skids to aluminum where possible, your greatest weight saving sill come from your gear selection.

 

You just sealed your fate

"If it ain't broke, don't fix it" only works when you have another vehicle to drive.

I'm not all armored up and 100% stock besides tires and I've yet to hurt anything and I wheel my truck VERY hard and drive home and to work the next day. Biggest thing is to drive carefully and be as conscious as you can to keep it out of a tree or rock.

 

To an extent. I was easier on my Tacoma during that time it was my one and only DD. Common sense goes a long way.

That said, don't be a little baby! (not YOU, just a general statement). It seems so many people are so risk averse, we're brought up in antiseptic, safe little society breeding infantile and helpless pussies. Yeah, you might get a scratch or get stuck... grow some balls!

(the above is mostly tongue in cheek)

 

I'm not adverse to "driveable" trail scars at all. Each one tells a story. That said, ripping of my t-case or snapping a CV joint isn't helpful either.

To stop the latter, you can either go big and heavy or go light and nimble. I've done the big and heavy before so now I'm trying the light and nimble.

 

will the 235/85/16 fit a stock 2003 without trimming, lift or replacing any other parts?

I am trying to decide what size BFG All Terrain to replace my Firestone Destinations 265/70/16 stock size on the 4x4 TRD.

If these would fit without trimming, I may lean towards the skinnies.