Anyone else not satisfied with their 6 MT?

Wow. Im guessing OP hasnt posted since the first days a#% kicking on this forum. I learned my lesson as well. NEVER say a damn thing against Tacomas!! Haha.

 

Nah! Just send it and duck for cover for just a week. Another dumpster fire thread will pop up and yours will be faded history.

 

And make sure you dwell on the number of cupholders they now have.... No less than twelve...

 

Double cab. Good looking.... Almost

 

You ever held the brakes and the gas at the same time on an automatic? Don’t do it for long because it heats up quick, but thats what i mean basically. That when you’re pushing a heavy load (the load acting as the brakes in a sense) around at very low speeds, because you have the torque converter, you can just ease into the load, and continue to do low speed operations that would burn the hell out of a clutch (to go that slowly)
I’ve had to do it a few times trailering heavy loads on loose surfaces
You can do technical, careful, near- zero speed work all day due to the automatics torque converter
Spooling it up when your pushing something really heavy, and holding it in place with the gas pedal, will make it overheat rapidly. But still better than a clutch for that sort of thing

They still sell the nissan with a manual — the pro-4x

 

No. I have over 150K on the truck. I replaced the clutch and flywheel when the throughout bearing was making all kids of noise and since it was open figured replace all of the shit. About 10k miles later the truck developed a violent sudder when slipping the clutch in 1st and reverse gears at slow speeds. It happens in all seasons and more often than not. So far I just carry about an extra 750-1000 RPM and get through it quicker but I am sick of the coffee or any other open container getting shot out of the containers. I did not have the problem before and my STi works like a champ and never had an issue like this in any of the other 5 manual transmission vehicles I have owned. I thought it may be a motor mount and checked the mounts for the transmission, engine, driveline. Everything checked out. I figure I will try a new clutch and flywheel when this one burns out.

 

I have but only occasionally on some cold mornings but only in 1st gear and goes away after I've been driving for a while. I've read that it could possibly but some deposits or contamination on the flywheel that causes clutch engagement to grip and slip repeatedly in a short amount of time.

 

Mine shudders but it's not related to the clutch. It only happens in 2nd at low rpms while trying to accelerate. I believe the AT software update addresses this issue. I never had it updated though, hoping the OVtune will help when I get it.

 

I only have 1800 miles on my 19 MT but I am so happy I hunted and found exactly the truck I wanted, in MT

 

I just picked up a 2016 TRD Sport. I wouldn't argue that there is a lack of power on the low end put once it gets up to 3000rpm she picks right up. The reverse isn't bad at all but I haven't towed anything yet, and haven't gone uphill in reverse yet. I can post any updates as they occur.

 

I have 40k on my sport manual. You learn to drive it. Have towed a bunch but no heavy boats.

 

I’ve always figured the shaking is just a truck doing truck things. The clutch in these trucks aren’t the greatest, but they’re a far cry from the worst, too.

That said, low power shudder will happen in any vehicle, regardless of programming. At least ours is NA and doesn’t lug nearly as bad as a single scroll turbo.

 

Clutch is already fully engaged and the RPMs remain stable with no signs of slipping. I know what the shudder of clutch chatter is like, this fortunately occurs after the clutch has completed its cycle and is throttle load dependent. If I back off the gas when it happens or give it more it will respond with a corresponding amount of shaking. The only issue I see with our clutch is the delay valve making the clutch action a little different every shift. I agree with the any vehicle thing, just its much more pronounced with the Tacoma. Possibly low power and the load of the drive shaft, rear end, etc. working against it, poor throttle mapping, axle wrap... lots of variables.

 

Hooray for small V6 trucks

I very much look forward to swapping gears in the future, and a stage 2 kit.

 

In a way, I look forward to replacing the clutch too. Really want to try the URD heavyweight flywheel.

 

Word is to go with the stage 2 one unless you’re rock crawling. Otherwise it’s too heavy for daily.

 

I would go stage 2 clutch. With this: https://www.urdusa.com/urd-torque-u-heavy-flywheel-2gr-fks-3-5l-v6/

I wouldnt want the flywheel to be any lighter, its already pretty good stock. I can hold a 1mph crawl in 2hi on flat and even slight grades. Would be nice to add some weight to it though so itd hold speed even better. Also less deceleration after throttle blips when slipping, should make reverse a little nicer on hills as well.

 

That’s exactly what I’ve looked at. I just figure if you’re changing out the clutch, may as well do the whole remodel while you’ve got her open.

 

I have the stage II clutch and the heavy flywheel and the steel URD insert for the throw out bearing. I will return to stock on the next attempt. The heavy flywheel was not all that great and I think it is not worth the lower speed being the acceleration is much dampened. Just my two thoughts. I used to ride all kinds of race motorcycles. I think it is too bad there are no options for changing the slave piston size. The difference in the master pump and the slave could make a killer heavy clutch easy as squishing bugs. The clutch master and slave I tried on one bike had to be swapped out for something that was actually harder because I could not get used to the easy clutch pull on the track.