Anyone into R/C?

Fuck yeah! My new axle housing should be here Friday. My body just arrived at a neighbor island so most likely tomorrow ill have it.

 

We're getting close!



Technically I can have it powered by tomorrow.

 

Started the mini z drift conversion. It's a tear down of a kyosho readyset ma020 awd mini z. You bag up certain things and you set aside parts not to be used in separate bags if you ever decide to return it to its rtr settings.

Once the chassis is bagged up and labeled you have to reverse the wiring in one place and then begin assembling with both the new and the rtr parts. I got into building the front end this morning but so far despite it being a prototype it has really good instructions and video explanation (in Japanese subtitles).

 

Pro-Line paint is out - don't have an airbrush kit and I don't feel like getting one for a single use. Might just go for a more fun color like orange or green, maybe try to emulate spruce mica. Can't find anything that would be close to Pyrite besides trying a thin layer of Tamiya Light Gunmetal and a coat of brown underneath.

 

One thing I want to mention about this.

The hardware kit really came in clutch giving me all the different length bolts for assembling everything together.

But in areas where a small nut is needed, I'm glad Mazz provided their own.

Needed them for the upper shock mounts as well as the upper links.

Lastly, it was really helpful that the Injora shocks had these pivot ball/mounts with built-in spacers. This was especially helpful in preventing the upper shock bodies from hitting the chassis.

It also came with several thick and thin spacers to use at the bottom.

I opted for thin spacers in the front, and thick spacers in the rear for all the bottom shock mounts.

 

@Strictlytoyz

So, I asked this in the FB group but I found a hiccup.

The front end seems to sit closer to the driver side than the passenger side on its own weight as shown with the frame and servo mount.



If I place the rig upside down under its own weight, the frame and servo mount collide.



I asked Tyler directly what he recommends as I assume maybe I have to mess with the link length a tad.

But also, the pivot balls seem to favor swinging one way than another. And yes, during install I made it a point to install them in a mirror fashion on both sides.

Here, I am applying lateral force. You can dee which side it favors.





And lastly, I'm attempting to simulate going over a rock.

This side clears perfectly...



But in this direction, it actually catches the servo mount which can limit my travel.

 

First time outside with it. 26 degrees, 30mph winds, driving with one ungloved hand and filming with the other. So go easy on both the video and lack of driving skills.

Dog gotta get his nose in everything.
I had him inside for the video, he keeps trying to eat the tires.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q8gyK68hpwE

 

Chuck some of these on it lol

 

Look like there is some slop where balls mount side to side. Get some tiny washers to shim things. I do this on all my crawlers so you can actually clamp down on the ball so it doesn't rotate on the bolt that goes through it and the actual plastic ball rod end rotates on the spherical ball


That is a sick lil mini Crawler tho.... Damnit. Nope nuh uh I don't need to go down that rabbit hole.... ND4 please go see your previous post about mini Crawlers.

EDIT - you can also put a washer between the link and rod end to extend by a set amount you cal clamp down on vs just a free floating rod end on the link that's not tight

 

I know a few places don't have room for a washer, but it could work in others.

First mistake, I had my upper front links upside down. They actually bend away from the front to add more clearance for a front facing motor.

Even then I'm still a tad to the driver side so I raised the shocks by one hole spacing and it gave me the clearance I needed so far.

You should definitely build one and join the rest of us

 

Calipers are cheap at harbor freight

 

Interesting, I'll take a closer look at mine today when I get home. I don't recall having that issue. I have clearance all around. The injora spacers for the shocks indeed come in clutch! Like I said earlier, the only clearance issue I have is the front magnet mount hitting the servo wires but that's an easy enough fix. Just got an email from nsdrc saying all the pre-ordered servos are delayed .

 

I do have a doner Ascent 18...... I do like the portal clearance on those axles. But could see a custom. LCG chassis being beneficial.

It is hard to tuck the portals inside the rims like on the 1/10ths so you gotta lotta stuff hanging out to catch.


No no no. The ascent 18 as it sits is a perfect round the campfire rig. Stop tempting me

 

Wrong thread?

 

Yeah but we're doing SCX24's

 

@Kwikvette
Mine favors the driver side ever so slightly as well but it's luckily not making contact or hindering performance. Front portion of my chassis just barely rides the outside of my servo mount.

 

Actually, yours sits just as far as mine too.

But moving my shock one hole down gave me the clearance fortunately.

Good to hear you're not having issues.

I may order a different servo though, one with a rear cable versus out to the side. Way to spend $90 on a high end servo I won't use huh?

 

Been heavily considering buying a rear cable servo and throwing the

$73 rs100 (A: champagne)

rs100 on my ascent since it's delayed anyway. That'll solve my only binding issue without modifications.

 

Nsdrc makes a rear exit plate and I think it is 9.99

 

How does the plate help though?

Looking at his servo, the cable comes out the side but quite a bit farther back than say, the Reefs RC.

My servo has it coming out the side but a tiny bit farther up.