Anyone into R/C?

I have lost track of what you are running, what links are on there now?

 

I bet I can add o-rings to the links.

I see that done on some links, not all brands though.

 

The 828RC links in a C-Bolt length.

Although looking at his pics, he doesn't run o-rings on the links on the same chassis.

He took these pics for me when I asked him a question about orientation.

 

Man we're all so close to finishing our builds!

Motor expected tomorrow, hopefully.

 

My chassis has little to no movement. I'll post up a video for you when im home. My pivot balls don't really pivot in the eyelets lol. All my links have orings on the pivot balls preventing any movement.

 

I went and wiggled my linked cars.
SCX10/AX10, absolutely no lateral play.
1/32 scale bouncer, some play, quite a bit actually.
The little 3D printed bug body car, no play.
Both FMS trucks, little to no play.
What I was seeing was the play in the link/ball socket on the tiny bouncer.
The rest are much tighter to the ball.
How tight/loose are the links on the balls when seated?

 

The pivot balls in the links themselves move freely. But they're tight within the rod end and won't pop off the pivot ball itself.

I think it may be intentional, cause there's no bind when I twist and flex stuff.

Guess we'll see once it's on the course! Just wanted to point it out.

 

SCX motor mount has a weather delay now
Ima gonna run the bitch with the FCX mount.

 

Shit dude, delay delay delay

You got more clearance than I do so you should be good!

 

Its likely side to side slop on of the pivot balls themselves in spaces where they arent clamped tight (ie skid plate and lower link mount at axle) The balls can move side to side and forward back on the little hardware that runs through them creating slop.

Get some tiny washers, shim stuff tighter and clamp down if possible to stop ball on screw movement.

EDIT - also in the rear this is exacerbated due to the fact the links are long and not as triangulated.

 

Don't want to come off arrogant, but no they're tight. It'd be too easy to spot if the pivot balls themselves moved along the bolt itself.

The opening in the rod end itself that captures the pivot ball allows it to move freely and this was evident when I first got my links.

I don't know what I don't know, so I wasn't sure if that was normal. The wiggle has always been there since I assembled it a week ago, I'm only just now asking cause we're close to final assembly.

I did ask Tyler and he said the movement won't affect anything. But I don't know if that's him confirming my install as normal.

You do make a good point, the rear indeed moves more than the front. The front is minimal.

 

@nd4spdbh

I know you're trying to help but here, visuals are better than words.



No slop at all in the pivot ball on the bolt itself.

 

These look really nice.

I'll be AFK for a bit.

 

Love the visuals!

How's it at the skid?

 

It's the same; yeah my words can suck lol

But the skid opening makes you push the pivot ball into it and has no slack. Really, it's surprising how well made the 3D printed parts are, with tight tolerances.

Joey probably told @Strictlytoyz about the process as he explained it to me too but I forgot

In other words, really fucking precise and an expensive process.

But yeah Tyler got back to me and did confirm it's the pivot balls and that it would showcase itself the longer the link setup is like you explained.

 

One thing to note is that there is an entry side to most rod ends that is slightly larger to accept the ball. I always try to find out which side that is when building suspension on anything

 

C10 wheelbase, short frame. 145mm WB.

good flex, no lateral play.

No way that servo is making contact. Side cable sux though.

I bought C10 shafts, the rear is fine, the front a bit short. Pretty sure this is solely due to the 15 degree skid tipping it forward. I am on the fence about installing the 10 degree skid to remedy this. It would make the ridiculous drive line angles better. They should spin fine, but I bet it vibes on the highway worse than a lifted 2nd gen.


at full squish, the plate clears the axle by .5mm. The plate does have a section that is shallow, so maybe this was the thought behind it.

Servo ain't as pretty. It should work fine though.

That steering angle


Originally I had planned on the CBolt WB, I kind of dig the stubby frame look though.
Now to completely disassemble and grease the axles, flip flop on the skid decision for a few hours. It's easy enough to shorten the shafts, but a skid change might make all that unnecessary.
How much actual benefit is gained from 5 more degrees of motor tuck?

 

Looks good!

I would think the angle would be more about weight distribution (front vs rear) more than anything.

Can't go wrong on the 10 degree skid, much like others who opt to run their motor rear facing.

 

Part of me thinks the motor tuck is more beneficial to a longer can, to get that bell weight down lower. With the mini being a pancake style, I don't think the gain is as much. I have no idea what I'm talking about though.

 

That was my theory as well, but...blind leading the blind here

I learn as much as others are willing to share; there sure are some gatekeepers in this hobby