Anyone into R/C?

I got my Honcho!

 

Sick!! The the modding begin!!

Triing out how to make an LT kit for my father in laws!! Lol

 

Fawkin SCHAWEET!!!!

 

I'm mostly concerned about gear lash/mesh. The other stuff is easy.

 

Traxxas Summit here....you can lock the diff's and switch from high/low gear all from the remote:

 

Oh my jelly!!!!!!!

Let me know how it is. That is going to be my fathers day present!!!

 

Take a piece of paper and put between your pinion and spur gears, tighten the two gears together as tigh as you can, with the paper in-between still. Then roll the paper out with your fingers and check your mesh, should be perfect, check the mesh/lash in a few different spots on the spur as they "can" be kinda oval sometimes, and you don't want any binding. The teeth should have just a touch of slack (were the paper used to be) between the gears. Make any since? I'll bet there YouTube vids showing this procedure.

 

Yea, seems like I've heard of doing that somewhere else. Should work good.

Not gonna have it installed till wednesday though....

 

Here's a vid. I don't do this any more, it's just good to show you the kind of mesh your looking for, and after just a couple of times, you can omit the paper, cause you will have an idea of what your looking for.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dmm5hQBfAyQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player

 

nice, thanks man!

 

No problem. Another trick is you can fine tune your steering buy using different spur/pinion combinations. Especially on two wheel drive models.

 

I never heard of the paper trick, but it's not hard to do without it. You just want a tiny bit of a gap, but I always do what t4daddy said, making sure there is no binding all the way around. I have to say that I was a little confused wiring mine up after 20 years -- I was wondering where the receiver and servo were going to get their power, had some AA batteries ready to go but nothing came with a battery holder, LOL. I thought the gear mesh was the easy part!

I went to the local indoor track for the races yesterday, but during practice I could not get in a clean lap and decided not to race until I get some practice in. I set up my SC10 4x4 based on some setup sheets I found on the internet, and the truck seems totally dialed, just needs a better driver! I was a little overgeared as well, I could pass everyone on the back straight, but couldn't always get the power out of the corners to clear the jumps unless I went wide, and then sometimes had too much. Of course, they didn't have the 12T pinion I needed at the little track shop.

I stuck around and marshalled for the SC races and realized I probably would have done OK, what a bash-fest.

My brand new body took a beating, and I remember now why I always just did fades rather than a lot of masking -- they don't last long! Mended with drywall tape and Goop for now.

 

It's funny how most of the time, the slowest model wins the race.

 

You know it -- a vehicle that is under control is way faster than one that isn't. One trip into the barrier can ruin a run. The mellow dude with the modest equipment is dangerous. Even with a timer-charger (which I used for a long time).

Back in Austin the track we ran at had a dirt oval around the outside that was typically only used in sections as part of the inner offroad course. The idea hit us one night that we should figure out how to use it, so we came up with a class we called Super Stock, which was that you had to be running a full NASCAR body. You could run anything you wanted underneath.

Well, most people took their buggies and stiffened them up, removing a lot of the travel. Some people went with a road chassis. I looked at the track and figured that was not a good plan -- there were too many bumps. So, I just mounted my body really high on my buggy so I wouldn't have interference, and maybe tweaked with springs and shock oil weights. It took me a week to get the gearing right, but then I was able to pass people on the curves. I had to drop out of the class because nobody could come close -- I held the track record by 2 laps for most of the summer. It sure was funny watching that dorky-looking car weave in and out of traffic.

 

Why bother with a slow crawler when you can buy one of those?! Those things are a blast! pricey, though.

 

We used to have our track laid out the same way, with a complete oval around the off-road part. But late on Sundays after a few too many, we'd start running our trucks (this was/is a private track, and all of us ran mostly the same set up, truck wise) on the oval, damn they would haul ass, but let two of those open wheels touch and you'd have spectacular cart-wheels and barrel rolls, with a trail of broken parts following. It allows seemed like a good idea, at first. We finally had to add some jumps around the outsides to deter us from doing it.

 

Just a tip - Use velcro tape to mount the esc. That way, it will be easy to swap into another rc, if you ever get another one.

 

this thing looks to have a lot of weight to it.

the way it moved was very "scale" looking...esp on the ice in the beginning

 

love how it sounds like a bunch of bees occasionally banging milk jugs on the ground

 

Looking to get a soldering tool. HELP!!!! Good brands?!!! Brands to stay away from?!?!? Hints tips and advise, Thanks in advance