Anyone into R/C?

Hey Keith, here is the Wall Of Shame box. Have had no issues in years now.

 

Why is this better

 

Any thing that is Factory Team from AE means, 1, it's always a kit, 2, it has all the little bits that there paid factory racers are using in the field. The very best, top of the line stuff, is already in the kit.

 

Oh I see

 

Sounds $$$$$$$

 

Not much more than a RTR kit. But minus the low end radio, ESC/motor combo and in general cheesy steering servo. A Factory Team model (of course it varies) gets you carbon vs. plastic chassis, a-arms, shock towers, MIP CVDs vs. dog bones, hard anodized threaded shock bodies and unobtainium coated shock shafts vs. blue (softer) anodized shock bodies with collars, and plain shock shafts, lightweight alloy screw set vs. heavier steel units, better bearings, a ball type diff (2wd) vs. gear diff, and even a better (for the track mind you) compound set of tires.

 

So your telling me my next truck should be a team factory so I don't have to dick around with cheap plastic crap.


Oh and I am going to pay you to paint me another body. I am thinking for my slash.


I think

 

I can't say that in a blanket statement, it all depends on your intentions with the model, (sometimes plastic is better for a basher, it lends some "give" where a carbon part might snap) for a racer, it's a no brainer though. I don't recall ever buying a AE model that wasn't a Factory Team, maybe my first RC10T, around 1993 or so.

 

I would like to shoot a SC body, (I've never) seems there should be plenty of room to work inside one.

 

By the time I'm ready to purchase that would be the route I would take, plus I could stuff in a monster Novarossi engine

 

Yeah, and it takes a lot of paint!

That dorky URC guy had some good tips on keeping it in shape after you paint it. Aluminum tape under the wheel wells does a great job of protecting from wheel rub. I also always reinforce the front of the hood and the rear corners with drywall tape and Shoe Goo -- those are the spots that seem to break first. But maybe other folks don't do flips and cartwheels like I do.

 

Ha, I thought I was the only one that took these types of steps to preserve a body. I've always used glass filled tape and Shoe Goo. Right above the rear wheel wells is where a stadium truck gives up first, well, mine anyways.

 

Haahaahaahaa bought a new toy today!!!!

 

what did you get?

 

I went to heli fun fly in today, holy crap.... Those guys are unreal with those helis. I took some cell footage, but I'm going back on Sunday, I'll take some real footage and post up.

 

Ruger 10-22

 

Got my slash all back together last night, let the loctite set in and took it out today, about 15min of run time I lost 4wd.. One of my mip coupings came apart and I lost a driveshaft . Also stripped 2 hex adaptors before the cvd issue, was able to run to the lhs and pick up some aluminum ones.

 

damn

did you lose one of cv pins? if you did you can put heat shrink over it to keep it from coming off

 

A lot of the brand new stuff, they have included a collar that snaps into place to prevent this.

 

Do a search for 10/22 mods (this forum) look on the first page to see four of the six 10/22s I own. The other two are box stock, for now.