Anyone into R/C?

@BDN,
What kV motor and voltage are you running? I'm wanting to go BL on one of my scx10s and am looking at some cheap Chinese/Banggood combos. I'd rather spend $40-60 for a motor and ESC that's cheap to see if the kV is good before dropping the coin on a sho nuff setup. I'm gonna try something around the 2000kV range.

 

As for my metric nuts and bolts, this is my go to: http://www.mrmetric.com

Flat rate shipping, so get a bunch of them.

 

3900kv on 2s.
Like you, I wanted to try an economical setup first. I'm using the Novak Hammer NX4 combo.

So after running the backyard for a bit, taking some jumps, high speed runs then braking, just plain old bashing, It's actually better than I thought. Had fun too
I did put the original spur back in so that brought the gearing back up from where I was with the Tazer. I actually like this better as it gave me back some top end and the esc did bring the cogging down to tolerable levels for a basher buggy, but no where near acceptable for rock crawler use, no matter how low you gear it.
It's not being used for a crawler, just a fun buggy, so that's cool. ESC and motor temp were 100 and 98 at the end, so I'd say that's pretty good.

@Brake Weight , I couldn't say for sure on brushless for a crawler setup. There is a huge gearing gap between the Twin Hammers (ICBM fast) and the SCX10 (jogging speed), and I'm still learning what all brushless systems have to offer.

 

There's a 1750kV motor/ESC combo for about $60 I looking at. I'm hoping it'll crawl with 2s and bash on 3s. Hope is the key word. It's a 550 sized can so it should be a plug and play.

 

I would be interested in your results. I've looked at those esc/can combo's too.

 

The jump from 2s to 3s is roughly from 14000 rpm to 21000rpm for the 1750kV motor.

The torque should be plenty on 3s. If that's not enough wheel speed then I could just not run the spur cover so swapping a pinion out would be just a few minutes of finding the wrenches and a piece of paper.

 

Would anyone be interested in buying my Pro-Line Pro-MT? Would be almost ready to run. Just install your receiver and go. It will come with everything else including 3 shorty lipos. Its lightly used maybe driven a handful of times in my front and back yards. (these are pictures right after i built it) i'll get more updated pictures later today. Includes a savox 1256tg servo, reedy 7.5t sensored motor and an absima sensored esc. $375 shipped

 

Current pics of it.

 

^^Would if I had the money. Dumped a lot into my wraith and my dad's SCX10 lately, so I'm out.

Had one of these given to me:
http://www.rcgrabbag.com/archives/wild-willy-1982

What should I do with it?

 

Give it to me

Jk, that's way cool!
What kind of shape is it in?

 

I'll get pictures of it tonight. Looked it up on ebay and folks have them listed (vintage) for anywhere from $400 (used)to $1200 (new in the box). I've already informed the person who gave it to me just in case he wants it back...

 

I started putting a VW Samba body onto a Losi Micro Rally.

 

Well surprisingly, this jeep is in pretty good condition. Missing the winch, though it may be in the box. Looks like whoever built it omitted some decals and didn't paint some things, but all in all looks ok.


Also, the wraith got new shoes tonight.

 

anyone have a good source for some tires? Need short course tires for my slash. Ill pay the $20 and change per pair if i have to, but i though i remember there was an online site that had them for really cheap.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-PCS-RC-1-...3a534ea&pid=100005&rk=1&rkt=6&sd=360813819272

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-109mm-R...se-Rally-Truck-Car-Tyres-Tires-/360813819272?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-Set-1-...2ff6189&pid=100005&rk=2&rkt=6&sd=361102137352


Typically they don't come pre-glued and you'll have to do that yourself.

 

Check DollarHobbyz.com too.

 

Split a couple 3s packs to 2s packs today for my friends SCX10.
Thought I would take some pics for those who haven't done this. I suppose like most who have been in the hobby for awhile, you acquire lots of lipo packs and sometime's it's cheaper to re-purpose a few than to buy new.

This can be dangerous and you run the risk of burning down your house or bodily harm so use caution and keep safety utmost in your mind. Your table surface MUST be non-conductive to avoid an accidental short.

Do this at your own risk if you choose to try it.
I've done several packs and am quite comfortable with it now, the first pack I did was truly terrifying.

Packs must be in storage charge before beginning.

A high watt iron is a must, you want the solder joints to take place immediately to avoid heat transfer to the pack and damaging it. I use a 140 watt Weller.

I have several older Thunder Power packs that still charge well but are too heavy for flight so they will be used for ground power



Gently remove the plastic covering


I use a plastic butter knife to separate the pack. Do not pierce the foil, if you do that, the cell is done, and it may get smoky. Patience is key here, do not rush it. Avoid pulling the packs apart, do not disrupt the foil surface any more than necessary.



I have removed the Positive lead and two of the balance wires, preparing to separate the metal tabs from the two cells.



I just use tiny metal shears, and VERY CAREFULLY snip the tabs apart, DO NOT SHORT THE TABS, sparks and fire will most likely result.



Safely insulate the tabs on the unused cell and label it so you know what it is for future use. This is the main reason for having the pack at storage charge before starting, as this cell will be sitting for a bit until needed for another project.



Now to solder the positive lead and one of the balance wires back to the tab. You will have to rough up the surface for the solder to stick, I use a small jewelry file. DON'T SHORT THE TABS! Can't stress this enough.



Positive lead.


Balance wire


Taped off contacts and unused balance wire snipped off. There are diagrams on the internet for balance tap wiring if you are unsure what to clip. TP packs are easy as they use the same tap for both 3s and 2s. If using another brand you will need the right balance plug or an understanding on how to use a 3s tap as a 2s tap, blah, blah, blah.


And complete, two 2s packs and two single cells for extra/repair or if I find another balance tap I can make another pack. Brings up a point, when your lipo's crap out, save the balance wires and the power leads before you dispose of the pack.


This is a pack I made several months ago, I wrap them with Gorilla Duct Tape as it's thick and gives a nice protective cushion. You can also use large heat shrink.
Don't forget to label it. When finished I always give them a full charge and then bring them to storage charge to cycle them and make sure all is well.

 

You're brave sir lol

 

haha, I've got so many duct tape battery packs just like that from batteries getting damaged or cells wearing out. they typically get retired to my crawler after the duct tape job, since that's a very low draw application.

 

Aside from the house burning down, No more dangerous than crawling under your truck while on stands imo, lol.