Anyone into R/C?

Need some help. Got a Vaterra Twin Hammer 4wd a couple weeks ago and the other day I powered it up, went forward, but tried reversing and it stopped moving and the motor just spins. Took it apart and noticed with the driveshaft removed and power to the motor, just the motor spins. The transmission shaft doesn't move at all. Contacted Horizon and they said it is a diff issue, but I can't see how that would be if the trans won't even spin. Any thoughts?

 

So the trans is spinning? Maybe the set screws on the driveshaft are loose.

If the trans gears aren't being powered then the issue is the motor. Either you need to tighten the pinion gear or get a new motor

 

Local tw crew race night

 

SCRunner12

Is it a 2speed?

Likely the pinion has come loose though.

 

Trans isn’t moving, will check again the pinion gear tightness.

Yeah 2 speed.

 

The transmission may not be in sync/calibrated any more.

 

@Itchyfeet

Blew a servo in my b3.1e tonight in the 2nd quals so i ran the 8.2e on the main, fastest lap in the b3.1e was 27.914, fast lap on the 8.2e was 27.915. Its plenty capable but even with the b3 shocks, it was undersprung.

Do the drop test when you get yours and if the chassis is hitting the ground, get some stiffer springs.

 

That’s what I’m thinking. Reinstalled the motor and it works but grinding. Need to find a trans diagram and redo it.

Thoughts on metal gears vs stock plastic?

 

Reset the end points on the shift servo according to spec and go from there. Or you can disconnect the servo arm and put it in either hi or lo by hand and check that way.

As for the material of the gears, metal is always better. The plastic will last a really long time with a brushed motor.

 

I finally had a chance to put my collection together and had to show it haha

 

So just found this thread, conveniently. So Tuesday I picked up a slash 4x4 with a couple nimh batteries....

Charged the batteries Wednesday, took it out behind my house Thursday for some dirt fun...

Friday at work was messing around outside the shop, took it off training mode, and well you can imagine how that went. Mind you, this is the first time I’ve owned this type of rc car...
Yep, hit the wall. Luckily it was still relatively early, so I stopped by my local hobby shop on the way home and picked up some rpm lcas, swapped em out, and ready to rock.
Just need to align the fronts a little, one tire looked a little off, pre collision, just the toe. Anyway, these things are so fun. Can’t imagine how much faster it would be with a lipo battery.

Also, any tips for a newb?

 

Like I tell my kids, “the throttle is proportional. Try to use it that way instead of like an on/off switch.”

And have fun.

 

Haha I just spent $100 on my 3 week old twin hammer because I messed up the trans a bit trying to troubleshoot. Pissed about that one as I would have upgraded to metal gears but they never called to discuss the repair.

 

Hold off on the lipo lol
I'd recommend you venom lipos or onyx. Take it slow haha and if you don't have sway bars you should get some they make a difference.

 

Yes, lol, learning to use it like a throttle. Ran it today, and rolled it a couple times. Still can’t handle 100%.

yeah luckily it was only $12 for my repair, but they sold me on a tool kit for another $25.

Yeah my buddy at work who’s into rc recommended them as well. I rolled it a couple times today, gonna have to look into them. However I like how it looks when you throttle it around corners and donuts.

Are the aluminum upgrade parts worth it? Such a huge aftermarket, still trying to wrap my head around it.

 

I have a Tamiya Twin Detonator in the closet. I haven't run it since my cheapo batteries stopped holding charge.

 

Yeah that’s what I figured. I can handle $12 repairs lol.

 

If the aluminum is the good stuff it will shift the breakage to the next weakest link as has been stated. If it’s the lesser quality let’s then they will snap usually. Still ending up with broken bits.

RPM has some spec age plastic or something. Look into their stuff for repairs as it’s also a little cheaper than the Traxxas branded parts. Most hobby shops will have the RPM lower arms at least. They do make a lot more if you’ll look at their website.

Read up on lipos as to how to use, charge, store, and discharge them before jumping in. They’re fantastic batteries and hands down better than NiMH if you treat them properly. The discharge rates are the biggest thing. A good 7.2v 2S lipo will outrun a 9.6v NiMH just because of the discharge rate is that much better.

 

He speaks the truth lol

So true too
A problem with aluminum is it has no flex like plastic so instead of bending back like plastic it'll permanently bend and when you try to fix it it'll snap because it's not as strong anymore but it looks cool haha


After upgrading arms I think the next thing to break is caster blocks and shock caps

 

I did some detail painting on my WPL B-24 (GAZ 66) today. Wheels, fuel tanks, and spare tire rack. Also added a dual geared n20 motor instead of the original tranny and it is super slow now. Too slow for my liking so I’ll have a look see for some faster motors.




Edit: the little motors are n20, not n60