Anyone into R/C?

I activated the two speed transmission on my SCX10 III Bronco last night. Gotta figure out how to make the servo hold its position after releasing the transmitter button.

 

It's become very clear to me that to continue in this hobby I need to get into the world of 3D printers.

I gotta ask, what program do you use to make/edit the STL files?

 

Does your Tx have another channel with a +/0/- switch, and if so, can you move the servo to that?

Edit, a brief look at the specs says it only comes with a 3ch tx/rx. Easiest way I can think of would be to swap that for a 4Ch.

 

Having raced indoor dirt tracks, I do sometimes miss having an R/C.

My go-to was always Team XRay for my competitive stuff and Team Associated for play.

Is the Mini Z for backyard stuff? Caught my eye when you posted it.

 

I learned on fusion 360 because it was free, but since I've been in college I have access to solidworks for free, so I mainly use that for modeling. For editing meshes like stls, I use meshmixer (free). I'm not very fond of that though since it's much more of a sculpting tool than a traditional cad program, but you can't really work on meshes in the way you might work on normal 3d model files. For slicing I used to use repetier host with slic3r so that I could have more control over the printer. Now, with the resin printer, it came with it's own Halot Box slicing program which hasn't given me anything to complain about. I'd also recommend the creality halot line of resin printers. In my experience the traditional FDM printers aren't worth the trouble unless you spend big bucks on a really nice model or spend a lot of time tinkering with the diy ones. The resin one is cheap, maintenance free, super easy to use, and has literally 10x the precision (enough to make accurate holes for scx24 bolts to self tap into). As much as I like tinkering on some things like rc cars, I see the 3d printer as a tool, and I just want it to work when I go to use it. The fdm printers always had some sort of issue everytime I went to turn it on. I still keep it around for big stuff though. That's the one real limitation of resin, the printers with big build platforms get very expensive. Sorry for the huge info dump, but I hope it helps. I'd be happy to help anyone get into 3d printing if they'd like.

 

So my SCX6 comes with the same transmitter and is set up with 2 speed from the factory. It uses the same channel and button as what I hooked the bronco trans up to, so I figured it has to be possible lol

 

Only if your backyard is concrete or carpeted, it just a bit short for the grass and loose dirt is not recommended for the Mini Z buggy's. The larger scale Kyosho stuff is fine though.
That being said, i have a couple 6'x8' sections of astroturf that make a great outdoor surface when it's nice out. Even the 4x4's are too low for the average yard turf.

 

Also, I'm in the process of drafting up a prinsu style rack for the gladiator. Any ideas on what junk to throw on there that's not already on the stock bed rack (rtt, gas cans, shovel, axe, hilift, traction boards) ? Currently have a pelican case and an awning on there, but I'm looking to fill it up some more. I stole the pelican case from thigniverse, but the awning is my first try at the sculpting side of cad to get the wrinkles and stuff. The gladiator has kind of turned into a stereotypical mega overlander build, so what other useless crap can you think of? I'm also thinking about a rear swingout for a spare tire, so don't want to throw that up there. Maybe a solar panel or something? So far:

 

Man, I love the information dump (it was very helpful) but also I really hate that I was just introduced to the idea of resin versus filament.

I already have an ender S1-Pro on order, but almost started looking into the cancellation process in favor of the mage.



The idea of upgrading it with a built in engraver is what's keeping me from making the switch. Even though resin looks awesome.

 

If you can make use of a laser engraver or cnc router, it'll be worth it. And even if you can't it's definitely nice to have something capable of big prints which is really only reasonable for FDM printers. I suppose the other big benefit of FDM is the wide variety of materials you can use. There's only so many resins and they're really all pretty similar. With FDM you can do almost anything you want. My FLSUN Cube mostly sits around now, but with a build space of 260*260*350mm it's nice for big stuff when I need it if precision isn't a factor.

My little Halot is barely big enough to make small scx24 bodies, but having the capability to do layers of 0.01mm with an x-y precision of 0.05mm is unbeatable for more technical or detailed parts. Frankly, for $100 (or $150 for wifi printing which I definitely think is worth it considering the stink of resin) and with how easy it is to use, I think everyone who's mechanically inclined should have one at least as a tool. It's not as big as the mage you were looking at, but it's plenty big for most individual parts, and even something as big as the mage isn't big enough for 1/10 bodies or other big stuff. In hindsight, I wish I would have spent the extra $30 for the Halot one pro since it's a little bit bigger and would do scx24 bodies no problem.

 

There is something about the MiniZ 4x4’s.

My Jimny keeps snapping cv’s, may have to spend the money and go metal.

 

I put new Treal beadlocks on the Bronco

 

That looks sweet! I notice a lack of body clips, how does it attach?

 

I'm waiting to burn up a steering servo motor on the Defender, it has a bit of weight on the wheels and axles to keep the rubber side down, and doesn't like to turn when bound up. If it wasn't for that 5 wire servo, that would be an easy upgrade.
But yeah, they are cool as shit, it was someone on here that posted a pic of one, had never heard of them until then. Now i have 3.
Eyeballing this kit, since i have the mini version, should prolly get the 1/10 to go along with it.
https://kyoshoamerica.com/1-10-ep-4wd-racing-buggy-optima-mid-30622.html

 

The clips are underneath

 

Yep, underneath and kind of a pain lol

 

That 5 wire integrated servo is a nightmare lol. It’s a bummer because everything is pretty high quality on the kits, but certain things are outdated/undergunned.

Edit: Parts can also be expensive compared to common 1/24 stuff.

 

Resin printing is awesome but the post processing is what kills it for me. We have both at work and unless we need something with precision we stick to fdm.

 

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1367578627/axial-scx103-early-bronco-clipless-body