Anyone mount a bump to hit uca uniball

Anyone with a mid travel...aka under 13 inches... build a mount to have a hydraulic bump strike the upper control arm at the upper uniball?

that way it doesn’t effect shock valving?

 

This type of mount comes with the RC 6” kit on my FJ. Although not hydraulic, it does keep my uniball/shocks from maxing out. I have another set I will attempt to mount on my Tacoma, but it may need to be shortened a bit..

 

Interesting. But that’s a droop stop

 

You will break/bend spindles long before you need to revalve your shocks. The only way this will work long term is if the spindle/upright is made to bump off the UCA.

 

I can’t speak for the arms. They are baja kits typicals. But the knuckle is the forged aluminum one on the right.

(I believe I read they are forged and not cast. Impossible to tell by look now a days)

 

Ford Parts? Looks like a Raptor upright.

 

@Arcticelf

 

Zr2

 

It's easy enough to build an engine cage and put the bump stop in the right place to hit the uniball bolt, look on IG for race truck builds for ideas.

The problem is the stock taco spindle probably isn't up to the task, and will bend.

 

I’ve seen a few where they didn’t do a full cross over brace.
Just a 3 point off of the frame.
My curiosity is how those essentially hoops with a third bar held up...

not worth it to me and my realistic level of use to build a cross over engine brace for a set of bumps.... on this build

 

I suppose it would work to just do hoops off the frame, but you'd want to plate up the frame a bit, that metal isn't very thick.

The bigger issue is having room in the engine bay for the cans, your UCA bolt gets very close to the top of the wheel well as it is, so most of the bump can has to be above the existing sheet metal in the engine bay. And you've got an ABS module on one side, and a fuse box on the other, that are just about exactly where you need to put the cans.

 

I have a feeling the risk vs reward, or work vs Reward may not be worth it.

I’m waiting on a set of bypasses before I swap the arms in. And the new coilovers.

so I’m not 100% sure where everything is going to cycle too. My fear is running that hoop and the force going in not up, and it tearing something.
I can always just use a stiffer valving in the bypass and open the comp and rebound tubes a bit more.

 

Honestly, on a Mid Travel front end hydro bumps aren't worth the work, especially if you are running bypass shocks too. Get a set of Duro Bumps and go enjoy your truck.

 

I was running them on a 9 inch wheel travel set up with an internal bypass shock.

it was a night and day difference. Worth every penny.
Currently have the bumps on a set of king 2.5 (5.6x travel shaft). A little less night and day (running nitro and oil vs pulling the nitro out and using just the oil fill)... but still worth it I’d say.

I just figure I have a bit of cutting and welding to do. Since I’m about to go up in travel to roughly 12 inches at the wheel. If I can get the bump off the lower arm where it effects the last third of wheel travel... and move it to the uniball where it only effects the last 2 inches...
It’s a smoother ride, and I can make the bumps a lot stiffer

 

That was the starting point for my adventure of a build

I ended up with a custom long travel setup with J-arm style UCAs tied into an engine cage.

 

I tried to go the full custom route. I admitted that I don’t have the physical ability (I’m disabled) to do a build (I can fabricate, weld but it hurts a lot lol). sadly none of the recommended places wanted to build anything due to lack of marketability for the plate form (Colorado).

 

Yeah, you're looking at a full custom shop to do this kind of thing. And frankly the Taco probably isn't the best starting point if you're going to spend that kind of money.