Anyone upgrading their 2016 Tacoma's speakers?

No I was trying to "suggest" a product. You were trying to sell one. I don't have any vested interest in Fosgate I run all Audison. I was making a suggestion based on thirty plus years of doing this. If we are being honest I would tell the guy to steer clear which is what I did.

 

Does the factory Headunit have output and RCA for subwoofer/amp?

This whole fancy headunit thing is trowing a wrench in my plans. I normally throw in a decent amp, a sub, new headunit and good speakers and have always had several compliments and my truck was used for tailgates, etc.

 

What is the ohm rating on the JBL speakers?

 

The factory HU does not have RCA outputs. You're going to need a "line converter" or what did, use an Audiocontrols lcq and run your RCAs from that. I had mine mounted under the drivers seat so I can adjust it as needed.

Everyone has there own way of doing things, (bc of $$$) but I can assure you mine sounds amazing with amplified stock speakers and a sub.

 

This is not off brand equipment . Its top of the line audio at an affordable price .
Its not mainstream here " YET " but will be within a year or so .
My little system sounds incredible.
Have a better peek at Mercury products here .......http://www.mercurycaraudio.com/Gallery3.html

 

Yes the alpine looks nice- looking to spend a little less.

What brand is the SM H500? Where can I find it online? Price?
Thanks

 

The SM H500 is the Sound magnus H500, and pricing/ ordering would be through me @ shokindustry. You can take a look at the group buy section where i have the current group buys listed for the deadener: Page 1 generally has the products available for GB's or individual orders

I pm'd you a price on the unit shipped

 

This is getting over my head now... LOL

 

@AFMurse2014- Keeping the stock deck, which lacks RCA outputs one needs to connect a line out converter of sorts ( they range from $20 to over $600 for processor units ) which in turn provide your amp with an rca signal. Some amps do have high/lo line lvl inputs but not most.

 

Thanks, @garyinok . This is really great info. My (limited, but successful) experience in home audio reflects your opinion exactly. Especially in regards to signal > power > speakers. I don't want to get down on anyone in this thread going the converter/amp/speaker route, so I just want to say that I think it would be very valuable if you were to start a new thread with details of your installation and what kind of results you obtained.

I've put some questionable audio equipment in my vehicles in the past, so I look forward to hearing about your experiences. I'm especially interested in how and where you end up mounting the components and how you routed your power and signal wires throughout your install.

I'll be looking into some of the products you mentioned and comparing them to others for my future build. Thanks!

 

I'm going to have to look deeper into this

 

This is ALL I'm looking to do right now. Keeping the stock head unit & speakers. I'm just looking to add
an AMP & a Decent Sub. I'm contacting some local installers today, what should I be looking for equipment
and Price wise?

 

id recommend buying an amp that has some head room for when or if you ever plan on buying some mids. If you don't plan on buying mids then you can go with any of the smaller power pack type amps and buy a mono block for the sub. With that said, a DSP matched with a 5 channel amp would also do the trick

 

I'm speaking with a shop now who tells me that they have a small self amplified sub-woofer
from Kicker that performs quite well and would be under $500 installed. Too pricey???

Does "self amplified" mean that amp is ONLY available to the sub and not the rest of the system?

 

Or that the amp is built into the sub enclosure meaning you don't need a separate amp. So yea, it wont help with your door speakers. Probably a class D anyhow

 

Thx. He did say it's built-in to the sub so that's what I suspected. Class D... Lower/Cheaper class?

$500 seems allot for just that.

If I replaced door speakers in the future, I'd need a separate amp I assume so would
this device still work with that if I were to do it?

 

Its probably just one of those off the shelf kicker amped boxes that are universal. Class D is a monoblock amp typically used for subwoofers, not a cheaper amp just for a specific purpose. Class A/B multi channel would be for speakers.

And as to your second question, yes, but truthfully you would likely be better off getting a better subwoofer setup if it is one of those universal ones. Theres quite a few out there or you could always have a box made/make your own.

As others said, 1. Signal processor 2. Amp 3. Speakers. Subwoofer can go in wherever really. I want to look into that SMH500 amp, the all in one capability of it seems like a great idea, just haven't been able to find the pricing on it yet.

Personally my plan is to clean up the signal and amp the stock speakers and leave it open to add better speakers and a subwoofer down the road

 

thanks for all the info! I want to do pretty much the same, nice amp, cleaner signal but I want the sub now
but I'm not sure if I'm going to take a beating in price. Hell, just what he stated may be enough for me, I just
have no idea as I haven't bothered to go this route before, I've just kept stock. I was thinking of this when he
first said it....

 

He just contacted me, the above is exactly what he was talking about as an option.

http://www.kicker.com/hideaway

So he's talking about $200 to install it.

 

Do the install yourself, either run a power line directly to your battery or find an unused fuse spot and use an add-a-circuit. Low power doesn't need a dedicated line run for it. There are also options from Kenwood, Pioneer and all other major brands that are not quite as expensive. Look on Amazon and autoanything (use a coupon for this one) and save some $. Just my 2 cents