Anyone with experience boxing in frame with an extra heavy payload (ie camper)

Hi all,

Tried searching for this but seems like the results I've found are more towards hardcore off road applications rather than overland/heavy camper applications.

I carry a heavy cabover camper with lots of gear with me and I'm at or a little above GVWR. I love the more compact footprint of the Tacoma over the Tundra and want to continue pushing the little Tacoma around for my application till it stops working haha.

I know there's an ongoing debate of whether the C channel frame is the better way to go because the frame flex spreads out the forces across multiple points VS the boxed frame focuses the stresses on a more singular point.

I'm sure this question can only be answered by a small number of you but... Has anyone boxed their frame with something like the DMZ kit (http://dmzfab.com/product/2005-tacoma-frame-boxing-kit/) while constantly carrying an extra heavy payload? Whats the review and have you noticed any benefits OR issues doing so?

Thanks for anyone that has any experienced thoughts ahead of time!

 

@Anderson just had his frame boxed in with the DMZ kit. Before then, he was running pretty heavy in a 2015 TRD Pro DCSB with a Vagabond Drifter and gear/water/etc.

The longer term answer may be "Take less stuff or move to a 1st gen Tundra that can handle the weight, yet is pretty much the same size as a 2nd gen Tacoma"

 

Thanks @JasonLee for the reply. Yes, that seems to be the most popular answer but would love to stick with my 2nd Gen Tacoma until I'm forced to. Been on this current setup for 30k+ miles driven across the continent so I do have a strong affection for our Tacomas. However, I do see a 1st gen Tundra in my distant future... but not before I'm done playing around with the Taco first

 

I have yet to “re-load” my Tacoma. This next build phase is a long one. Lots of moving pieces to navigate. I know that @tacomgee has the DMZ kit and is running loaded now. Maybe he has some better insight into this.

In reality, I followed @tacomgee’s lead on the frame boxing kit. Plus, my previous experience with FJ40 frames(some similarity to our frames w/ a boxing kit), leads me towards this path.

I can say that, as of now, I feel like I made the correct choice. But, only time and use will actually tell me if I did.

 

@Anderson thanks so much for your reply! Any initial thoughts/review on how your truck behaves after boxing?

 

It’s really difficult to quantify at the moment. I changed to a new rear shock setup at the same time as the frame boxing, which makes it even more difficult to zero in on any specifics.

I will say I am very satisfied with the progress of my truck.

 

It isn't an argument. C channel midsize truck frames suck. The equivalent overseas Taco is a Hilux. It has a fully boxed frame, is the same exact platform mostly, and is rated for a full ton.

The 1st Gen Tundra won't really get you into a better position other then power and size because it suffers from the same construction. Although, I believe it to be better is pretty much every regard to a 2nd or 3rd Gen Taco IMO.

Either box your frame or step up to a platform that can handle the weight like a 1 ton truck. I think if you want to stick with a Yota I would box the frame in the Tundra. You get something slightly bigger but with a better engine.

Then I'd torch that crap running gear and fitn something underneath with a real number of lug nuts. Say Super Duty axles

 

I don't be the shock placement made the truck behave better. It chatters all over the place even in stock for because the rear half is held together with Japanese beer cans.

 

The videos below have challenged my thinking about boxing the frame...

https://youtu.be/Nnw8wxHkNO0

https://youtu.be/aYbXeyzwsmY

 

i've had my frame boxed before I got my drifter camper on the truck. I've been constantly heavy (steel bumpers, 1/4" steel skid plates, sliders, camper, etc) and havent had any issues. I can't really say I've noticed any difference driving wise on or off the road specifically related to the frame since i easily added 500# to my rig fully loaded on a trip at about the same time I boxed the frame. I can say that I feel less worried about issues when on a trail flexing the suspension with all the weight on the back.

 

Dont watch that....every manufacturer is like "we increased chassis stiffness 8000% from the previous model".

Meanwhile the bed hits the cab during flex.

Old body style Yotes never had this problem. 2nd and 3rd Gen have garbage frames that favor ride quality. Hence the payload is smokes and a cup of coffee. Box it up and be done.

 

I have the DMZ kit with dimples as Anderson mentioned earlier. The kit is badass and fits really well. Not sure if just in my head but the truck felt more solid after having it done.
Definitely more feel better supporting the camper and extra weight i carry. Also gives me a bit of peace of mind after bending the frame in half on my last truck.The DMZ kit was literally one of the first things i did in the new one.

 

Thanks everyone for chiming in. Please continue to provide thoughts. Seems like people so far are voting that boxing in seems to be what people seem to me voting for.

If there was a safe t cap kit for the 2nd gen, that might’ve been a solution to build a stronger c channel. https://www.autorust.com/product/all-tacoma-safetcap-kit-locations/


@rob1208 very cool setup

@tacomgee glad to hear that you’re having a good experience with it as I’m leaning towards that kit right now.

 

What's the issue?? For all that you probably have invested in your current set up, adding the DMZ kit seems like a chump change mod in the total scheme of things. Just do it.

 

@jbrnigan The issue is whether it’s going to help or cause more issues in the long run. Your statement already implies that you know boxing the frame is superior. Far more educated engineers have debated this so I was now looking for experienced reviews which is what I am now receiving by the people that have posted already.

 

Is the frame stronger on the Tundra or are you just referring to payload? I know my frame isn't boxed either which is why I originally clicked on this thread. I'd like to get a Drifter someday.

 

Wait...let's not assume engineers are smart. They work for a guy who cuts their paycheck and says make it good enough for massive profits.

A 94' pickup is built like a 3rd world country beater rig designed to be pounded into death and still take it. A 2nd or 3rd gen Taco is built for maximum profits and a just good enough for Toyota quality design. Pretty clear when put side by side. Not saying a 22re is anything special but it won't be special for 300k miles and not go into limp mode when it's electric smog pump decides to stick because a grain of sand got in it. Wait, that never happened back in 94'.

I don't think a Tundra frame is stronger really, just bigger so it's capacity goes up accordingly. If you are working large amounts of weight and playing the frame starting with the Tundra will probably put you ahead. Long term I'd consider a larger 1 ton would be necessary if you are going that far.

 

Like said the Helix & LC like mine are boxed, more weight & rigid, think they a thing to keep the production price down in the US for more profit