Anything welding

If I bought a 140amp 220v mig welder. What Amperage would I have to run it in order to get enough penetration/ strong weld on 3/16'ths steel plate?

For most 140amp welding machines, if I did run it at the full 140 then the duty cycle would be like 10% or less. Most are rated around 90amp-120amp at 30% duty cycle or less.

So if I bought a 140 would I have to run it at 140 or could I run it at 90-120 and get a strong enough weld for a plate bumper (3/16 steel)?

 

As always, the answer is "it depends". It depends on the material thickness, whether or not you're running a shielding gas, etc. The answer is anywhere from 150-190A.

Download Miller's app (free) to give you a better idea of what you'll need.

 

Getting there..

Lots of time in this first set, all the dimensions are my own..

Pissed, because for whatever reason I decided to get a notcher and abrasive cut off saw from Harbor Freight - they're both complete shit. Worse, because I'm totally aware that they're garbage tools, and decided to try and save a few dollars. Instead of needle bearings like the JD2 of JMR notchers - the HF one has brass bushings. One of them dropped right out immediately, and the shaft was bent from the factory. Garbage.

Cut-off saw is one of the biggest piles of shit I've ever used..

Ignore that rough edge on the gusset, didn't clean it up yet and haven't beveled the back side either, yet.

Going to add another tube in the kickout section - need to get some more material.

 

Looks good!

 

What notcher do you use?

I've used the JD2 TN100 at the shop where I bend my tube.. Pretty solid, and not overly insane on the price, either.

http://www.medfordtools.com/metalworking/tubenotcher.html

 

JD2 Notchmaster

 

I'm picking up my first welder this week - a tombstone ac225. Not the fanciest machine in the world but couldn't pass it up for $50. Now I have to learn how to use it. I haven't welded since high school and that was a loooong time ago. And I sucked at it. lol. Anyone have any good teach yourself to weld hints or resources?

 

youtube will teach you a good bit, other than that just get out there and practice practice practice lol repatition does it

 

Just noticed a potentially big problem with my welder.

It's a Hobart 210MVP. I've always run it on 115 though. I was replacing the roll of wire and noticed the melted plastic. I think it's safe to assume it's not supposed to be like that. IIRC, I've never hit the max duty cycle (which I've done a time or two with my Hobart 140.) Even when cranked all the way up. I figured I didn't hit the duty cycle because I've only run 115.

Could something be messed up with the hardware so that it doesn't trip the kill switch (or whatever) and the welder becomes overheated?

 

Is the connection tight? Sometimes a loose connection will cause it to get hot.

 

"Insuperior potassium"

Cheapo plastic maybe?

 

While I haven't built my own sliders I have designed a lot of structural steel. You're gussets are not going to provide you the strength you think they will. If you hit heavy enough the gusset will either deform the flat of the square tube or punch through. Whenever I use square tube I place the gussets at the extreme edge of the member so that the gusset has something below it to bare on, not a flat piece of plate.

Now, you're going to have a lot more problems than some bent tubing if you've hit hard enough to buckle the tube and have the gussent punch through, so you're probably just fine.

Just some food for thought.



Here's a screen shot of one of my modules that I designed. It's currently being built. You can see the stiffeners where the square tubes meet the wide flanges. The stiffeners are placed such that the wall of the tube is supported.

 

Not a bad price. See if he'll take $600

 

I'd take that in a heartbeat

 

X2 this is why we weld our gussets on the outside edge of the slider legs.

 

Gotchya. That makes complete sense, and thanks for the intelligent input..

These have been a learning process, and I'm continually getting better. Definitely have an admiration for the large scale fab shops!

In retrospect, I agree fully with your suggestion of gusset placement. But, like you said - I'm fairly certain there will be many more pressing issues at hand if the truck has been thrashed on hard enough to blow out a gusset!

 

It's not that big of a deal if you put them in the center you will be fine.

 

What is everyone using for ventilation systems?

Did about a year of MMAW back in High School, and never really worried about my lungs.. which was stupid.

My shop now is so much smaller that the grinding/welding particulate/fumes don't have anywhere to dissipate. Leaving a door open isn't an option.

Been wearing a P100 Miller half-mask low profile respirator that seems to be working; although - I'd like to build some sort of extraction system..

 

X2 good thing to remember when Reenforcing something

 

Just food for thought buddy. You're sliders should work just fine. Keep up the good work. Nice welds by the way.