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Anything welding

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by EL TACOROJO, Sep 17, 2010.

  1. Dec 7, 2013 at 3:23 PM
    #2101
    Smashing

    Smashing Well-Known Member

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    I'm picking up my first welder this week - a tombstone ac225. Not the fanciest machine in the world but couldn't pass it up for $50. Now I have to learn how to use it. I haven't welded since high school and that was a loooong time ago. And I sucked at it. lol. Anyone have any good teach yourself to weld hints or resources?
     
  2. Dec 7, 2013 at 3:31 PM
    #2102
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Chad
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    Look at build!
    youtube will teach you a good bit, other than that just get out there and practice practice practice lol repatition does it
     
  3. Dec 12, 2013 at 1:12 PM
    #2103
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Just noticed a potentially big problem with my welder.:(

    It's a Hobart 210MVP. I've always run it on 115 though. I was replacing the roll of wire and noticed the melted plastic. I think it's safe to assume it's not supposed to be like that. :rolleyes: IIRC, I've never hit the max duty cycle (which I've done a time or two with my Hobart 140.) Even when cranked all the way up. I figured I didn't hit the duty cycle because I've only run 115.

    Could something be messed up with the hardware so that it doesn't trip the kill switch (or whatever) and the welder becomes overheated?

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Dec 12, 2013 at 1:33 PM
    #2104
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    Relentless Armored! Too many others to list.
    Is the connection tight? Sometimes a loose connection will cause it to get hot.
     
  5. Dec 12, 2013 at 1:34 PM
    #2105
    DWreck

    DWreck Famous Retrieval Vendor

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    Derek
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    Plasti-dip paint, TRD S/C, MCM Fab LT kit, bunches of my fab
    "Insuperior potassium"

    Cheapo plastic maybe?
     
  6. Dec 12, 2013 at 1:56 PM
    #2106
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    While I haven't built my own sliders I have designed a lot of structural steel. You're gussets are not going to provide you the strength you think they will. If you hit heavy enough the gusset will either deform the flat of the square tube or punch through. Whenever I use square tube I place the gussets at the extreme edge of the member so that the gusset has something below it to bare on, not a flat piece of plate.

    Now, you're going to have a lot more problems than some bent tubing if you've hit hard enough to buckle the tube and have the gussent punch through, so you're probably just fine.

    Just some food for thought. :thumbsup:



    Here's a screen shot of one of my modules that I designed. It's currently being built. You can see the stiffeners where the square tubes meet the wide flanges. The stiffeners are placed such that the wall of the tube is supported.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Dec 12, 2013 at 3:18 PM
    #2107
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    Relentless Armored! Too many others to list.
    Not a bad price. See if he'll take $600 :notsure:
     
  8. Dec 12, 2013 at 3:19 PM
    #2108
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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  9. Dec 12, 2013 at 3:24 PM
    #2109
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    X2 this is why we weld our gussets on the outside edge of the slider legs.
     
  10. Dec 12, 2013 at 4:06 PM
    #2110
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    Gotchya. That makes complete sense, and thanks for the intelligent input..

    These have been a learning process, and I'm continually getting better. Definitely have an admiration for the large scale fab shops!

    In retrospect, I agree fully with your suggestion of gusset placement. But, like you said - I'm fairly certain there will be many more pressing issues at hand if the truck has been thrashed on hard enough to blow out a gusset!
     
  11. Dec 12, 2013 at 4:27 PM
    #2111
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    It's not that big of a deal if you put them in the center you will be fine.
     
  12. Dec 12, 2013 at 5:25 PM
    #2112
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    What is everyone using for ventilation systems?

    Did about a year of MMAW back in High School, and never really worried about my lungs.. which was stupid.

    My shop now is so much smaller that the grinding/welding particulate/fumes don't have anywhere to dissipate. Leaving a door open isn't an option.

    Been wearing a P100 Miller half-mask low profile respirator that seems to be working; although - I'd like to build some sort of extraction system..
     
  13. Dec 12, 2013 at 5:50 PM
    #2113
    achirdo

    achirdo I Weld!

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    X2 good thing to remember when Reenforcing something
     
  14. Dec 12, 2013 at 5:57 PM
    #2114
    SMKYTXN

    SMKYTXN If it can't be overdone it's not worth doing Vendor

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    Just food for thought buddy. You're sliders should work just fine. Keep up the good work. Nice welds by the way. :thumbsup:
     
  15. Dec 12, 2013 at 6:12 PM
    #2115
    achirdo

    achirdo I Weld!

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    This one?
     
  16. Dec 12, 2013 at 6:15 PM
    #2116
    45acp

    45acp Paint me back in Wyoming again...

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    Could you also just weld/tack another piece down the middle inside the tube to support it?
     
  17. Dec 12, 2013 at 6:16 PM
    #2117
    steve o 77

    steve o 77 braaap

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    245k+ miles, rust, working AC, bald eagles
    Yup but not necessary at all.
     
  18. Dec 12, 2013 at 6:17 PM
    #2118
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    PNW/Kodiak
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    OME 886/Old Man Doug Suspension Lift, ARB Bumper, Bruteforce High Clearance w/Swing Out, De-badge, Block Heater, Homemade IFS Skid, 7" Kragens, Blue Seas Fuse Block, BlitzPro Fogs, 12k BadLands Winch, BAMF Sliders, ARB Locker, 4.88s Yaesu FT-1900R, Larsen 150B NMO Mount Antenna
    Fairly certain it was the one that's a step down from that. Absolute junk. Motor was way under rated from what the sticker stated, tripped breakers - and the fence/handle assembly is garbage. Even the cord material on HF tools is junk. But - like I said - how could you expect something that costs a fraction of the "real deal" to be a quality tool?

    Picked up a Makita yesterday. Much, much better.. Welded a piece of 1/4" flat stock to the fence, stiffened it up quite a bit.

    Would love to be able to justify a cold cut or horizontal band saw; just can't do it at the moment.

    Pretty cool table from Pirate on notching with a hole saw:

    http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/shop-tools/456800-chop-saw-notching-101-pictures.html

    This will have to do until I get my ass around to ordering a JD2 notcher.
     
  19. Dec 12, 2013 at 6:35 PM
    #2119
    NewRider

    NewRider Well-Known Member

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    Travis
    Charlottesville , Va
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    So any suggestions for a decent MIG welder that's not gonna kill the bank on someone learning to weld? I did a couple practice runs a long time ago but I've never made a successful bead.. My goal is to use it to build sliders, bumper, whatever else for the truck so it needs to be able to weld thick enough metals (my guess from lookin around is one rated high enough to weld at least 1/4")
     
  20. Dec 12, 2013 at 6:43 PM
    #2120
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    It took me a while to look at anything other than Blue..

    But I'm really happy with my Thermal Arc Fabricator 211i.

    I feel as though it's a machine that you're not going to outgrow as you become a proficient welder. Plus, it's multi-process/dual voltage as well.

    Comes with good consumables - the only thing I'd swap would be the ground clamp. But that's just me.

    Make sure you get a good helmet. It's tempting to get the junk from HF.. But how are you going to learn to weld if you can't see the puddle? I'm happy with this one:

    http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/equipment/welding-gear/helmets/Pages/viking-3350.aspx
     

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