Anything welding

I have the HF Titanium 45, dual voltage, I’ve used it a decent amount cutting 1/4”-5/16” and hasn’t missed a beat, l haven’t tried anything thicker. I tried 3/16” on 120, I did it, but it was definitely at its max. For my needs, I’ve been extremely happy with it. But being HF, I bought the extra warranty.

 

If you think there ever will be a day where you want to build a plasma cutting table/robot, get a Hypertherm. They have a machine torch option that the others don't have.

 

Yeah it’ll more of just a hobby thing I don’t think I’ll make a cutting cable. Thanks I’ll look into the titanium. I’ve seen quite a few reviews on the prime weld and the yes welder but I don’t really believe all YouTube videos.

 

Whatever you get, plan to run it on 240v. I also had the titanium and loved it but sold it to fund other stuff. I’m gonna buy another cheaper cutter soon and landed on the Eastwood.


https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-versa-cut-40-amp-plasma-cutter.html

 

I'd agree with what you and others have said that a dual voltage machine is good. I also think having a pilot arc machine is handy, although I haven't used a touch/scratch/whatever they're called start for comparison. I bought one of the least expensive dual voltage, pilot arc plasma cutters that I could find on Amazon. It was the WarFox Cut50DP (D for dual voltage, P for pilot arc). It also had non proprietary connections for the torch and dinse plug ground cable, so I liked that I could replace those if necessary. The regulator and dryer it uses could also be easily replaced with an off the shelf one, since it was external. I tend to look for how easy those peripherals could be replaced if I accidentally broke them acting like a caveman, so this was good for me.

I used it exclusively on 120v because I don't currently have access to 220v, and used it to cut a bunch of 3/16" to build 2 sets of skid plates. I'd say it was limited by the 20amps of 120v more than the power of the machine. It definitely had the beans if I could get it on 220v. worked well for me and I think the build quality was a bit better than expected for a $300 machine. At one point it was down to $225

I got this one, looks like its no longer available. go figure:

Plasma Cutter Pilot Arc,120/240V Dual Voltage Non Touch Plasma Cutting Machine, Max Cutting Thickness 14mm, Clean Cutting Thickness 10mm in 65PSI

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08CRFDPHG. They do still appear to sell the non pilot arc version Cut50D, but I like the pilot arc feature

one of my early cuts, so still dialing in settings for slag reduction

 

Is that a drag tip machine?

My biggest hurdle when I got my PC was putting the cutter tip directly on the metal to be cut. I had only used gas cutting torches previously. The idea of putting the tip directly on the metal was very odd to me.

 

This may be a stupid question, but can you actually see the puddle? I mean really see the puddle? I think you need to start with some eighth plate, butt weld, fillet weld and get the "procedure" down. Heat, dab, move. Ya know. I think you're trying to go directly to brain surgery without dissecting a mouse. LOL.
Your arc and puddle is all over the place.
Zim

 

Thanks. Ya I think I’m leaning between the prime weld, yes welder or the lotos. They all seem like popular picks and are around the 400-500 range which I where I wanted to be around. If anyone has experience with these let me know your thoughts.

 

the one I have is not a drag tip. Has that little bent metal standoff that clips onto the cup

 

Despite my tig-learning woes above, for what it's worth, I'm quite happy with the new-to-me PrimeWeld 520DP machine that I'm using for plasma cutting and DC tig. The original unit was damaged in shipment, but customer service was snappy and totally supportive in replacing it, and has been responsive in answering my follow-up questions. I'm obviously not an expert, but in my novice opinion, this is an excellent machine for its price point. It is a solid plasma cutter out the box--HF start with pilot arc, couldn't be easier. Plus it is super smooth with DC tig--but for this, although it comes with a torch (w/ collets, cups, etc.), you will need to buy the tungsten, argon regulator, and foot pedal separately. I am also glad I got a dedicated tip grinder thingy for my dremel, makes it super easy to consistently (and frequently lol) regrind while learning. And am eagerly awaiting a parts kit for the torch to get a larger cup and a gas lens, I am having to run it at 50 CFH to keep my stainless welds from getting charred (although this is likely user error).

I read that it struggles on 110V FYI. I only use 220 and it is awesome.

I'm sure any of those machines are very similar and a good value. But PrimeWeld warranty and support is excellent.



ANYWAY

Thought I'd post something that isn't just me complaining about how hard it is to learn tig on thin stainless... an actual repair.

One of my front skid mounting points came loose. Nearly stripped the nut trying to back the screw out, but it survived. The nut is welded to a small piece of sheet steel within the frame. The spot welds holding that piece to the frame failed on one side. I could wiggle that bolt up and down a few mm by hand.

But, there's no way to access the failed weld inside the frame, at least not on my back in my driveway with a cheap mig welder.



So, I decided to drill out a bit of the frame so I could access some of the loose metal behind it. That was easy, but sanding down the mating surfaces was quite tedious!.



With everything clean and shiny, I pooped in some hot metal, then ground the area flat again.



Then I scoured the trauma from the nut threads. Bolts thread freely now, and I tested it to 60 ft lbs (2x spec) to make sure they wouldn't immediately strip. They're not perfect but I suspect will hold out just fine, given that the primary stresses to this joint are compression and shear.



I also dremeled out the holes in my skid a little bit, in hopes that screw bind won't pop my shitty weld loose next time. Hope it holds!



Curious if you more-experienced folks would do it differently, or if I made an obvious mistake here. Paint is drying for now!

 

Nope you did just fine, better that you could save it. The only other option is if it completely broke off you could drill a bigger hole, weld a nut to a big washer, pop that in and weld the washer to the frame.

 

@koditten

Finally got my first "from scratch" program to run on the CNC table. Cut ready downloads have been okay, but my own creations have been refusing to load.

It was problem with Fusion having an outdated Post Processing G-Code generator. I believe it was torch height control revision being newer than Fusion's library driver. I ran the dry run on the table and it worked great. Didn't fire the torch because I didn't want to re-fill the table tonight.

I'm going to try the canvas feature in Fusion soon and try uploading a jpeg. Watched video and that looks like the way to go for anything other than simple stuff like this plate.

Don't anybody hate on me, it's a birthday present for a brother-in-law.

 

That is great!

My Z-axis touch thingy from @Pyrotech showed up today! thanks! Looking forward to trying out the dimple die as well!



I now have to reconfigure everything myself. I've got so much going on, I don't know when I can get to the plasma table.

 

Welding in 35mph wind gust is not recommended.
Zim

 

Passenger side is now ready for a little body filler. The heat definitely sucked the metal in some but nothing a dolly and a few whacks of a hammer couldn't remedy. I went slower on the drivers side so there is less warping on that side. My daughter was pissed about the sound of the compressor and die grinder so I had to call it for the day. Tomorrow I should be able to buff the DS and seam seal everything up. Then body filler, sand, body filler, sand, and paint.

 

curious to see what you do with the dimple die... while it will do 16g mild steel I doubt it will hold up long term with quality dimples. in lighter gauge steel or aluminum, I am certain they will hold up much better.



you can see the wear it is starting to take on the male die after 7 uses on 16g mild steel.



My test pieces for reference... not bad for a 3d printed tool

 

Curious, how much filament does it take to make the dies?

 

With the exception of the Harbor Freight welding table, are there any other recommendations?

Requirements, $200 or below.

No larger than 4' by 6' as I'd like to keep it compact for TIG welding in the new house.

I'll build a larger welding table later once I acquire steel.

 

I am making a roof over my new wood rack placed on exterior wall of the garage. I needed to cut some corrugated siding down from a single 14' piece into 38" sections. I thought I'd challenge the torch height controller (THC) on the CNC table. The THC measures the current between the work piece and the cutting tip. As the gap changes, so does the current (greater distance, higher amperage to jump the gap). Sensing a current change, it SHOULD raise or lower the cutting tip to maintain consistent gap. Fail!

The THC was detecting the current change and moving up/down slightly, so I likely had the travel speed to high, even though I was well below the recommended speed for the thickness of metal being cut. Tried several speeds but none completely solved the problem. Never lost the circuit(arc) though, so that was good.

Anyway, it cut 90% so cutting the rest with angle grinder was no problem.

The trough is about 1" deep x about 1.5" wide.

 

99% finished with my dual Jerry can holder that’s been sitting around forever collecting dust. Not my best work ever but it works and I think it’ll be safe, secure, and strong

Just gotta add a hole through the part that tightens it and the piece that hinges up to secure the tanks and I will probably use a locking hitch pin or something. Some type of lock the doesn’t shake around a bunch and clank all over.

I’ll feed the license plate light wire through the bottom and mount the license plate and light on the front plate there