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Anything welding

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by EL TACOROJO, Sep 17, 2010.

  1. Feb 13, 2014 at 8:24 AM
    #2621
    Phil Dammit

    Phil Dammit Well-Known Member

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    Their plasma cutters are solid.
     
  2. Feb 13, 2014 at 8:30 AM
    #2622
    M C M

    M C M Well-Known Member Vendor

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    Lots of expensive shit
    I would recommend the thermal arc fabricator 180 honestly. Snap on.stuff is overpriced as far as welders and stuff
     
  3. Feb 13, 2014 at 9:32 AM
    #2623
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    So it took me all of 5 minutes to clog up and ruin a .030 tip. lmfao. Eric, on the 211i, the chart shows for 3/16 metal to set the speed at I believe 266, the heat at 12, and the inductance at 6. I started to draw a bead, and at first it seemed ok, but then it started popping and snapping. It wasn't holding a solid bead at all. In MY opinion it seems the wire speed is too slow. What do you have yours set at?
     
  4. Feb 13, 2014 at 9:44 AM
    #2624
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    on 3/16 I run wire at 336-345, voltage at 19.7-19.8 and the inductance at "8"
    You should also check the burn back control on the panel inside right above the wire feeder. If you stop your arc and the wire burns up and sticks to the tip, turn the burn back control down a little until that stops
     
  5. Feb 13, 2014 at 9:50 AM
    #2625
    Gear Head

    Gear Head Well-Known Member

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    Hmm wonder if my dad's lincoln has that. I normally just smack the gun on the ground and squeeze the trigger haha
     
  6. Feb 13, 2014 at 9:50 AM
    #2626
    Phil Dammit

    Phil Dammit Well-Known Member

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    Forgot to tell you to invest in a couple bags of tips. I carry bags of .027-.035 on the inside door of my lincoln.
     
  7. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:01 AM
    #2627
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    OK, so it DOES look like my wire speed is a little slow. Is there a big difference between 266 and 336? And the 6 or 8 inductance? I will reset it and try again.

    How do I adjust the burn back?

    Thanks for all the help. I will embarrassingly post pictures of my welds later. lmao.
     
  8. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:20 AM
    #2628
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    Same thing here.. I've found the parameters to be way off on some of the material/thickness/wire size with that chart inside the door..

    I know with .030 and .120 tube, I run something like 319, 18.8, 8
     
  9. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:22 AM
    #2629
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    For the Miller, I keep tips and nozzles.
     
  10. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:23 AM
    #2630
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    If you open up the access door on your welder - it's the rotary knob right below the circuit breaker, and local/remote switch.

    Keep an eye on that ground clamp - mine burned up after a few days of using it pretty heavily. The picture the machine with a nice heavy brass Tweco clamp - instead they ship it with a crappy stamped one.

    I can go out to my shop and grab some starting parameters for ya in a little bit..
     
  11. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:30 AM
    #2631
    RelentlessFab

    RelentlessFab Eric @Relentless Fab Vendor

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    Forgot to mention, I use .035 wire as well. so you'll likely need even higher wire than I use.

    As for a big difference between 266 and 336... yes! Major difference. I can tell when the wire speed on mine is bumped +/-5 from my usual settings, so if it was 20% off then that's definitely major.

    Yeah, this.

    And the ground is the only thing I've changed. Added a magswitch ground
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2014
  12. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:33 AM
    #2632
    Phil Dammit

    Phil Dammit Well-Known Member

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    This is true, I have noticed the millers gunk up the nozzles more often then Lincolns.
     
  13. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:36 AM
    #2633
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    Found the burn back. It was turned all the way down. ALL the way. Funny, I didn't see anything in the owners manual about that dial.
     
  14. Feb 13, 2014 at 10:40 AM
    #2634
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    I know it sounds stupid, but make sure that your MIG gun end is fully seated in the DINS connector on the welder. I Had a hell of a time getting gas to flow the nozzle when I first set mine up - was convinced that my solenoid was dead.. Turns out the plastic molding was a little too big, meaning that the plug couldn't seat all of the was into the orifice (dirty, I know..).. Had to make a small slit on the gun where the control wire exits the molding. Then the gun was able to seat on the o-ring, and pass the shielding gas through without any leaks. There's also a small set screw that will seat in a chamfered ring, as well.
     
  15. Feb 13, 2014 at 11:32 AM
    #2635
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    I was running into all sorts of issues trying to match what everyone is saying, so I said screw it and started just playing with the dials. I was getting a lot of pops and stuff, but finally when I hit the settings of around 430 and 17 and 7.5 I was able to get a not-so-perfect, but acceptable "sizzle" and this is the results. So other than gun technique, which will just take some time, give me your feedback. Don't try and be nice. Just be honest. I can see some "splatter" from previous hits, and from SOME of this run.

    [​IMG]
     
  16. Feb 13, 2014 at 11:40 AM
    #2636
    ian408

    ian408 Well-Known Member

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    That might be more user related.
     
  17. Feb 13, 2014 at 11:55 AM
    #2637
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    What's your material thickness?? 430 is about max wire feed on that machine, amperage/wire feed are analogous on these. If that's the case, you're super hot.
     
  18. Feb 13, 2014 at 11:59 AM
    #2638
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    I KNOW the technique is bad. I will get that better with a little more practice. What I am asking about mainly at this point is if it looks like the welder is set right for speed, voltage, and inductance. It seems like I get good penetration, as evidenced when I looked at the back side and saw a good discolorization of the metal.
     
  19. Feb 13, 2014 at 12:01 PM
    #2639
    BamaToy1997

    BamaToy1997 Wheel Bearing Master

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    My dial indicator shows I can dial up to 500+ on the speed dial. ?? So it looks like I should dial down the voltage a bit more if I am super hot? Material thickness is 3/16
     
  20. Feb 13, 2014 at 12:33 PM
    #2640
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I don't have this machine but i don't think you need that much wire on 3/16th. I run Millermatic 252's and on 3/16th we run 20.7V and 350 to 370 wire speed that's with a 90/10 mix you would want the heat a little less on 25/75. The best advice i can give is to weld like crazy until you get your settings down everyone is going to be different on how they like the machine to run. I go by feel when I weld but do it a lot. It's also a good idea to have a buddy mess with your wire speed and Voltage wile your running a test bead that way you can get a feel on how you run and what you like it set at.
     

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