Anything welding

Your kidding me! Why would they do that? Can you unscrew it to get some more tip recess?

 

no, then it wont be sealed. You have to buy separate nozzles. But you only want a recessed tip for spray transfer, which he isn't doing, globular is flush, though I don't know it really matters.

 

I find welding with the tip flush or damn near just under the nozzle and about 1/4" stickout made worlds difference than having it recessed

 

Just the oposite for me. Recesses keeps me from getting buildup on the tip.

I can't remember the last time I changed the tip. Maybe 2 44lbs spools ago? I dunno?

 

Only reason I know I just had to buy a new nozzle fucker was arching off he workpiece.

 

Idk, ive never replaced the tip on mine... been thru over 100# of wire myself

 

Thanks for the info. Sadly I am in the middle of nowhere, so scrap 3/16 steel just is not around. All the scrapyards are closed on the weekends, and by the time I get off work I can't get to them on time during the week. Sad, but true. Plus I think the bad welds add character! Since they are on the inside and you can't see them! Hahaha. I will get there. So far only a few spots are welded.

I got ya on my travel being inconsistent. Non steady hands, and to be honest a bit of apprehension in my abilities are causing me to make some errors. I will see about dialing up the heat some. I am assuming dialing up the heat will give me better penetration, and less of a peak in the metal weld itself. at least that makes sense to me anyway.

My tip is recessed some into the cup. (I am thinking about 1/4 inch?) But the cup is a screw on, so I can't adjust it any. I am trying both push and pull to see which ones I am most comfortable with, and that I can get the best weld out of. I know that each method has it's own result.

Thanks for the advice everyone!

 

What is your gas set at? Turn your heat up and your wire down just a bit. I rarely look at the numbers when dialing a machine it. It's all about how the arc looks and how it sounds. I used to tune my old bosses welder in without looking while he was welding and I was holding shit in place.

Your Tig is beautiful.



Just one of my stainless passes I laid a while back. Helium and 140 dollar 14lb grade stainless single shield 0.30.

This is what I ended up building, full stainless outdoor shower. Wish I took pics of it installed. Only lasted three days on the guys balcony before the HOA of the complex said tear it out.

 

The TIG weld took 10 minutes for prep, fit up, welding, and checking to make sure it it still level. Then goes to inspection, x ray, dye pen, hydro, PMI, & hardness.
The mig weld was on a "hobby" project. It takes no longer make a good quality, attractive weld than it does to slap some shit on there.

 

THIS^

 

As I recall, the gas is at 16. Thanks for the input.

 

Since we are talking bumpers (I guess this really applies to most anything though), would you always want to make a pass on both sides if possible? For example on a bumper where the two pieces are at a 45* angle to each other, visually you would want the outside face welded, but would you want to run a bead on the inside surface as well? Lets use 10 ga for this example if it matters.

 

ok. Gas is actually at 17. Here is my recent pass in the middle. Settings are now:
Speed: 313
Voltage: 19.0
Inductance: 6.5




It looks like I am getting a better pool, and better penetration. Still sucks not having a steady hand. Plus it is difficult to always see the butt joint clearly, so sometimes I push it a little off center. I am guessing my helmet screen may need some adjustment. It is an autodarkening with a dial on the side.

 

With 10ga, I wouldn. Depends if you full pen it or not. If you have full penetration I would not do both sides.

 

I want to know how fools are laying mig welds like this. I have yet to find a video of this but knew one guy at the shop I used to work at that laid single shield like this. He was gone two days after that so I never got to ask him what he did to produce this kind of weld. I assume it is all in how you manipulate the puddle.

 

Thanks, would you want to do the back side instead of the front ever, or just depends? I plan to do some trials on scrap first, just wondering if there was a general accepted practice.

 

Did the picture not link? It shows on my end

I lay a decent weld 90% of the time so I would just do the front. Especially if it is fillets on a butt joint. Like what's his nuts said though, you could lay some 1 on 12's or 2 on 12's if you wanted to beef it up even more.

 

that's what we do.

Is the inside necessary? probably not, but it's better safe than sorry IMO! I run stitches about 2" long with a 3-4" space between beads, and all corners always get a bead on both sides

 

Thanks all!

 

In that case then my bumper will be a BEAST since I have been full welding on the inside, and will obviously full weld the outside. lmao. It's getting better. Only thing I see as any kind of error that will be a LITTLE tough to correct is the lower plate on the "wing". I think I had it positioned wrong by a small amount because when I look at bolting the bracket into place, it does not look like it will be parallel to the truck frame 100%. I am guessing maybe 2 degrees or so off? I will see if I can get a picture.