Anything welding

I gave up on wanting a tube bender some time ago.

I now just make a pattern out of old coat hangers. I hand the template to my local muffler shop...along with a case of beer. They bend the tube to my exact specs. I have to pay shop rate as well as tube costs.

I'm way ahead on costs going this route...and I don't have to find a place to store a seldomly used bender.

The muffler shop guys are wizards when it comes to tube bending.

 

Idk just didn’t wanna clog up the thread lol

So when bending say the main tube on a front bumper (multiple bends) how are you guys finding the tube length without wasting a bunch of material?

My idea was to just cut a long piece of tube, align the center of it to the center of the truck, and just see where I want to bend. After that first bend, how do I accurately mark where I want the second bend to be so that it’s asymmetrical with the other side? I know my question isn’t worded the best but it’s hard to explain lol

Im aware of arc length calculations but how do you guys measure out multiple bends in a piece where you’re essentially eyeballing where you want things?

Another question, for example if I have a 60 degree bend, and I want to put a brace tube on the inside of the angle, what’s a good way to know the length of that tube including the notch? In videos I’ve seen, they just hold the tube up and basically just mark where it intersects the tube they’re welding it to, just seems there’s gotta be a better way. Thanks in advance.

 

Haha that’s a good idea, I’m already invested in my tube bending equipment tho and really want to learn.

 

I don't bend at all, I don't have the tooling or know-how.

But what I've picked up from any/every person with experience is that, they keep several pieces of scrap for reference when calculating the required length for any given bend

There's also software that helps with this - Bend-Tech

 

So I am far from a pro but I just have different cheater bends that I make and use as a reference where to start and where bends will end.

On these cheaters you mark every inch and then you can see how much tube a bend will take up and just go from there. There is also a mark of where to put the collar for the tube on there and how much spring back I get for each angle

 

I’m decent when it comes to arc length and the amount of material used in a specific bend. My question is more so when you have multiple bends in a piece where you’re visually seeing where you want your bends to be, how do you measure where all the bends are. This is really hard to explain, I need to draw lol

 

I think I get what you're asking. Don't they normally measure to the start of the collar/shoe/die? Or to a specific spot on the mandrel or bender? Like, side a was 10" to the clamp, side b needs to be 10" to the clamp and do things to the start of the bend. If it's the same diameter material and same bend angle, the result will be the same at the end of the bend, make it easy and measure from where it's still straight y'know.

 

I hold up the cheater and measure where the bend should be. I’ve found tubework is a lot more eyeballing than anything. For example getting all the bends on the same plane, my front bumper has 4 of them, the only real way is to sight down the tube

 

Below is an old post I made in the LT thread, which also pulls some stuff from my build thread. Much of it will be stuff you already know it sounds like, but there's a bit on visualizing bends in there. Specifically the part about using a flexible exhaust tube.

Once you have your specific bender figured out, you can do all of it on paper before you even go into the garage. Hope this helps at least a little.

 

There doesn't have to be any guesswork or eyeballing in getting bends in the same plane. I have a handful of these in various sizes, but this specific one is all you need when you're talking roll cage/bumper sized tubing

$50 Pipe Center Finder, Pipefitter Tools w/Magnetic Centering Head, Pipe Fitting Tools Center Finder to Measure Pipe Diameter from 1-1/2" to 6" Diameter, 2.75" Y-Shape w/Adjustable Dial Bubble Protractor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CNRRY6ZV

For tubes with multiple bends, I lock the tube in place in the bender, set up to make the first bend. Then I use this tool to punch 0 degrees every foot or two. Then when it's time for the second, third, fourth bend etc. the center punch sits perfectly in the bunch mark and allows you to finely adjust the tube to the same plane as the first bend. You can also spin the dial on the tool so that you know exactly how far to clock the tub in the bender for off-axis bends.
The main hoop of my back half has 5 bends all in the same plane. This tool allowed me to nail it first try without any stress.

 

Digging these magnets a whole bunch. They are strong enough to hold pieces in place for grinding and welding. Real good stuff.

 

Draw it out 1:1 scale on the garage floor an use that along with the cheater pipe to help. Also make sure the tube an bender.stay on the same plane when bending a center line mark on the tube helps along.with a digital angle finder. Zero it out on the bender frame then rotate the tube to match the 0 mark

The fabrication series on youtube has some really good tube bending videos an i watched them alot when making my bed rack.

 

Hey guys, Ive been thinking more and more about getting into Tig. Ive been trying to figure out what I want to weld as well, and narrowed things down to aluminum and stainless, minimal mild steel. Based on that, Ive also been researching welders, and kind of narrowed my thoughts to an Everlast PowerTig 200DV or a PrimeWeld Tig225X. I definitely want a pedal too. Does anyone have any experience or thoughts on these?

I have a Hobart 140 mig already, along with a 30A fuse and a 110 plug, but it could be changed to a 220 if really needed. Im going to be teaching myself too. My neighbor used to be a welder, and I have another friend who builds custom motorcycles that I can bounce ideas off of too. But both of them have Millers, which is way out of my price range for now.

 

@fatfurious2, I have experience with the Everlast 200 DV, very nice Analog inverter machine. But kinda loud, as the fan was always on. I’m not familiar with the Primeweld.

I know people will make fun of the Eastwood TIG 200, square wave inverter, but that machine can weld very very well. Not that loud, just doesn’t have a lot of bells and whistles. Very basic, no pulse. I have this machine in my garage.

I just recently picked up a CK Worldwide MT200 for my saw shop, and the square wave inverter is the kind. It has fan on demand. The machine is quiet most of the time. Half the cost of a HTP. Check IOS for best pricing. And wait for Black Friday to pull the trigger!!

 

https://www.weldingsuppliesfromioc....-ac-dc-tig-welder?_pos=1&_sid=28d5218bf&_ss=r

They by far have the best pricing. And at only 35lbs or so, can be transported easily with a small bottle anywhere.

 

Ouch, huge pass

 

I think the price is a little out of my range right now. Based on the other 2 I mentioned, I think my range is $1100 and below. It does look like a nice machine.

I will also admit I am not up to speed on the meanings/uses of square wave inverters, etc. The loudness doesnt bother me as much.

 

That’s what I thought too. But you truly get what you pay for. I’d put it in the cart and “think about it.” IOS is good at sending emails with a “what if we were to give you another…off.”

If you’re at all worried about finances, buy the Eastwood and don’t look back.

 

Striking an arc on a CK Worldwide is like striking gold. Very nice stability.

Either way, good luck fellas for TIG Friday, the possibilities are endless with a TIG torch.

 

I do not have this welder but when I get a TIG machine it will be a PW tig 225X. They have impressed me with customer service and pushing my MIG 180 more than I probably should have. Reviews seem great and has all the features I could want.

Again I dont have any personal experience with the 225 but I am in a similar spot as you are.