Anything welding

Tell me, the days where I only needed a drill, and not a tapping set to go with it…it was tough to eat the shipping costs. But, that was in the build cost, personally, I would absolutely need it!

 

Woodworking (and a square file:0) to the rescue with the Workmate. Aluminum be tough to prop sometimes.

Mind you, I use it mostly for my saw wrenching. But as you folks that own one knowest best, it’s extremely hard to get an answer No from the B&D

 

Unless you're taping a tiny drill bit inside a letter and sticking on a stamp, I don't know where you're shipping anything for less than $9!

 

I understand you have to pay order pickers, but really?! A stamp is $.72. How many orders do your pickers pick in an hour? What are they being paid? Either I'm getting screwed at that price or someone's very inefficient. Sure they have things that nobody else has, but Amazon also gives me access to things nobody carries and ships for free (or a very reasonable price).

And that $10.95 is the same if I have it shipped to the local store. Complete bullsh$t. I'm quite sure they get a re-supply at least once a week (likely more often), get it in their store shipment.

Their business model sucks.

 

6061 is so dam cool to work with. Dr. Lathe’s work.


Btw, the OG finger ports that started a craze!!!

And some crazy iron lifting from Canada to say the least!!!! Respect Northern Brothers. Quebec side.

 

Break over hometowns, Dr. TIG needed!

 

One of the tabs holding up the 2nd floor at the kids area of a climbing gym. Looks to be about 1/2 thick.

 

Thanks, I'll book mark that one for future use.

I ate the outrageous cost of S/H for those role pins. Because the closest store that had them was far enough away I would have spent $10 in fuel to go get them.

In my case it could have been nearly just like that. I order package of 100 1/4" roll pins. They came in there own little plastic bag. They would have easily fit in a regular envelope. With a first class stamp, they would have been through the USPS and in my mailbox two days tops. Cost of the shipping the time of the employee for Handling the order shouldn't have been more than $3.95 S/H. The the extra suck of that was, I only needed 1 little roll pin, not 100 of them...

 

Luckily kids don't weigh much...

 

kids don't, but that floor weight, in horizontal tension might...

 

Home stretch on the header! Just need to fully weld the head flange and weld on the springs retainers on the collector and runners.

 

Looking like proper flow

Good stuff.

 

I drew up the top bottle bracket today... maybe it will get cut out this year yet. getting this little project done will help make some room in the garage, something at an ever growing premium.



There are 3 holes for the

$22 Blue Demon RST-36-GREEN Rod Storage Tube, Green

Blue Demon TF filler rod tubes, I figured why not since there was room.

The steel is sitting in the garage, along with piece of 1/4" mild steel that was a drop from the local steel yard, I have some plans for that once I get setting dialed in.

 

I forgot I had the CKW in panel mode, I was tacking the corners. Stoney forgot to switch to remote. Moving damn quick and dipping like crazy, full juice for tacking was waaaay too much leaving a nasty crater. Gotta lay down the bong

The little Shars vise is bad ass.

 

@KRAMERICA, here we go brother. I wasn’t willing to wait till Friday for aluminum inserts, nor deal with traffic on the 5/605(mind you, it’s down a few country miles from me bro’s house).

I went with ‘ol trusty and ordered 6061 M12 nuts. Took the hit knowing the project will be done tomorrow afternoon.

So in this case, I believe it will make the process a whooole lot easier. Trying to braze aluminum/silicon bronze to 6061 and stainless/chrome(?) sounds tough. But I’m going to go try nonetheless!!!

 

There are times where it makes sense to suck it up. At least you bought more product than what they charged you for shipping.

I checked my email and found the receipt from ordering those role pins. This was from 4.5 years ago, but $3 of product with $8 of shipping, for less than an ounce of weight. Now it would have cost me $5 in gas and an hour+ of my time to go get those roll pins in town. At the start of the pandemic. So I sucked it up and waited for my role pins to be delivered. Sometimes it's the best coarse of action.

 

Well, I could have got the inserts at Amazon for less, but it didn’t say what kind of aluminum they were. So I had to go McMaster.

The Weldmonger is tough to get stuff from, but that’s another vendor I don’t mind paying extra for. Particularly someone like him, small business/gives back to the community. Good stuff.

 

Yeah, the McMaster shipping does drive me crazy… I just keep a list of stuff I need for the shop and wait until I have enough stuff in there so it doesn’t feel so painful.

Have you ever returned stuff to McMaster? It’s crazy. I called to ask if I needed an RMA and the guy said “no just send it back.” and I said, “how will you know it’s for me?” and he said “we’ll figure it out!” Incredulous, I packed up a bunch of stuff that I had never used, some of which was well over a year old and I got a full credit on all of it.

 

Fixing a Kart Frame: Welding Advice Needed


I'm helping a friend repair his kart frame, and I could use some advice. Unfortunately, I don’t have a picture of the actual damage, but I’ve attached a picture of a similar frame for reference (green frame) and another showing the type of kart we’re working with (blue and red kart with n the bottom of the 2nd pic).

The Issue:
The damage happened after repeated impacts with curbs on the track. The frame has worn through in one spot and developed a small crack. Buying a new frame would cost $2,000–$3,000, which isn't in the cards right now. While this frame won’t be competitive anymore, it still works, and we just want to make it functional again.

My Plan:
I’m thinking of welding up the crack and adding some filler material to strengthen the area. Afterward, I'll smooth it down with a grinder/flapdisk. The challenge is that these frames are complicated. They’re designed with parts that adjust the rigidity of the frame. I’m not sure if it’s made of steel or chromoly, but the kart can hit speeds of 70 mph.

What I’m Looking For:

1. Advice on whether I should approach this differently.


2. Tips for welding on a kart frame (steel vs. chromoly considerations).


3. Best filler material to use, if any, and how to keep the repair as clean and functional as possible. Er80s-d2? Would it even matter?


I'm not too worried about safety since he's still using the kart but he's down about 3 seconds per lap. Any tips would be much appreciated!

 

can you "sleeve" of splint the failure point? Might buy you some time or it might never fail at that point.