Anything welding

I did a similar repair on a friends gx470, I cut out the crusty section then put a big fish plate over the top. Welds turned out like kaka but itll hold. I think this was pre good hood.

 

Cornwell 181DV on 240v
75/25
.30 wire

For 5 dollars i will send you pics of some really bad welds I did that same day

 

Smallest set of blocks I've made. Theyre more of a pain in the ass to weld than the bigger ones.

 

They look smaller...is it because it's wintertime?

 

"It's cold outside"

 

They're growers not show-ers.

 

came across this video the other day.

https://youtu.be/vZoZHx6Tu4o?si=L7LKJFVgnGuR2qkp

https://fireballtool.com/products/diy-table-system-36x24-3-4-system?variant=43869533536300

 

Easy Saturday morning earlier today

 

I dig his tools as I use a ton myself, and I looove that dragonscale finish he applies to a lot of stuff

That price point would still push me elsewhere but I'm betting a ton will still sale

 

Gonna ask this here- cause it's fabrication related... I need to re-drill some larger holes in 1/4" plate that are slightly out of position. 18 year old me, 22 years ago, made a fucking mess of my DO skid plate mounting system. There is a longer story there, but it's not worth airing old ass laundry. I went at the existing mounting holes with whatever shit tools 18 year old me had on hand- dull smaller drill bits, files, etc... to make it fit.

The two right way options:
cut off the mounting plates, replace them, tack them in place, finish weld, and move on.
fill some of the hack job I did 22 years ago with weld, and properly re-drill.

what I hope I can do:
get a "good enough" ~26mm metal hole saw, drill one pilot hole in a scrap piece, tack that scrap onto the mounting plate and then re-drill the holes using the scrap piece as a guide hole.

The real question here is- what metal hole saws would ya'll recommend? I am thinking hole saw over twist drill bit, cause the twist drill bits have a tendency to grab and bind and I'm not sure I can hold... I think I can set this up in the drill press, but would rather not if possible.

 

Another option - draw up whatcha need, send the plans for the new parts my way, and bring the skid over

 

"draw up whatcha need", this, but not fucked. And yes to those with eagle eyes, those are Simpson washers. Didn't realize that until I took the skid plate frame off 22 years later.

 

Like this... $10 bucks for three holes seems reasonable...

 

Launched my website today and got my first order. Finished it up and will be shipping tomorrow.

 

Sweet!! Congrats!

 

Congrats and good luck on expanding your venture!

 

Thanks guys! Hoping it expands the customer base a little bit.

 

i don't entirely follow what needs to be done. just beware that fresh weld tends to work-harden the metal, so sometimes, it's not possible to drill through it.

if those bits would work for the size you need, be sure to get two. the carbide is cheap and brittle. they're extremely easy to break. and when they break, they tend to knock all the teeth off at the same time.

i used a similar bit for drilling the 8 holes for my trailers suspension mounts. i got through 3 holes before the first bit imploded, but then the second bit lasted through the rest of the holes without an issue.

idealy, you'll want to use a quality name brand carbide-- the greenlee or dewalt versions do actually cut better and last longer, but they're typically closer to $30-50/ea and the cost doesn't always work out for many projects.

 

What you're saying makes sense sorta but do it permanently instead of a jig for re-drilling. I would leave the old holes as is and drill the cover plate holes to size off the truck, then weld them on all the way around

 

Made some big boy blocks today.