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Anything welding

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by EL TACOROJO, Sep 17, 2010.

  1. Nov 3, 2014 at 12:29 PM
    #4341
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    OME 886/Old Man Doug Suspension Lift, ARB Bumper, Bruteforce High Clearance w/Swing Out, De-badge, Block Heater, Homemade IFS Skid, 7" Kragens, Blue Seas Fuse Block, BlitzPro Fogs, 12k BadLands Winch, BAMF Sliders, ARB Locker, 4.88s Yaesu FT-1900R, Larsen 150B NMO Mount Antenna
    Yeah, I know..

    Not that I can't do it old school, I just think there's a better use of my time.

    Going to check it out right now.

    Kind of sucks, going to have to resurrect my old PC to run it. But, should pay for it with the job that I've got sitting in my driveway at the moment..
     
  2. Nov 3, 2014 at 2:52 PM
    #4342
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    Jerry
    Benicia, CA
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    02 Extra cab SAS Linked front and rear
    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Yes it will to have everything perfect every time you go to make a part pays for it right there.

    Example
    I just got a email for a 6 bend part that would of taken at least 2 hours to draw out and test bend with who knows how many fucked up parts in the scrap bin.
    I had it drawn in less then 2min in bendtech and quoted the job. Just to be able to send a quote back to the customer that fast is worth it to me.
     
  3. Nov 3, 2014 at 2:54 PM
    #4343
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    Downloaded it. Mark was super helpful, have a chunk of tube in the truck to run through the calibration..
     
  4. Nov 3, 2014 at 4:06 PM
    #4344
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    OME 886/Old Man Doug Suspension Lift, ARB Bumper, Bruteforce High Clearance w/Swing Out, De-badge, Block Heater, Homemade IFS Skid, 7" Kragens, Blue Seas Fuse Block, BlitzPro Fogs, 12k BadLands Winch, BAMF Sliders, ARB Locker, 4.88s Yaesu FT-1900R, Larsen 150B NMO Mount Antenna
    Haha.. Yeah I've got a Dell that's a few years old that I replaced with a MacBook Pro. Forgot how nice a 19" screen is..
     
  5. Nov 3, 2014 at 5:58 PM
    #4345
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Yep stepping into the world of CAD you need some power! I built my computer with a I7 processor 16gigs of ram and a 2 gig video card it does well for 3D cad. Bendtech pros 3d viewer will freeze your computer if you dont have at least the recommended set up.
     
  6. Nov 3, 2014 at 6:08 PM
    #4346
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Ryan
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    Smokin with a smarty.
    All of my old jobs used to give me the shittiest computer for modeling. They never understood the inconvenience. Crashing at least a few times a day got irritating real fast, but I learned to save often. Now I have a bomb ass desktop hooked up to a 50" tv for modeling, or use my 17" MBP.
     
  7. Nov 3, 2014 at 6:51 PM
    #4347
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    OME 886/Old Man Doug Suspension Lift, ARB Bumper, Bruteforce High Clearance w/Swing Out, De-badge, Block Heater, Homemade IFS Skid, 7" Kragens, Blue Seas Fuse Block, BlitzPro Fogs, 12k BadLands Winch, BAMF Sliders, ARB Locker, 4.88s Yaesu FT-1900R, Larsen 150B NMO Mount Antenna
    It's totally job dependent; but what modeling platform do you most often use? I like the Custom 3D Part and Sketch 2D
     
  8. Nov 3, 2014 at 8:05 PM
    #4348
    JLee

    JLee The Man! Vendor

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    I lost track thousands of dollars ago.
    Yeah it really depends on the part but I do tend to use the templates when I can. If there is any rotation I use the custom 3D.
     
  9. Nov 3, 2014 at 11:28 PM
    #4349
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    OME 886/Old Man Doug Suspension Lift, ARB Bumper, Bruteforce High Clearance w/Swing Out, De-badge, Block Heater, Homemade IFS Skid, 7" Kragens, Blue Seas Fuse Block, BlitzPro Fogs, 12k BadLands Winch, BAMF Sliders, ARB Locker, 4.88s Yaesu FT-1900R, Larsen 150B NMO Mount Antenna
    [​IMG]

    About 45 minutes of messing around in the Assembly module..

    Hoping that I got the calibration correct for my bender.

    Awesome freakin' software!
     
  10. Nov 4, 2014 at 4:19 PM
    #4350
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    07 2.7 4x4
    OME 886/Old Man Doug Suspension Lift, ARB Bumper, Bruteforce High Clearance w/Swing Out, De-badge, Block Heater, Homemade IFS Skid, 7" Kragens, Blue Seas Fuse Block, BlitzPro Fogs, 12k BadLands Winch, BAMF Sliders, ARB Locker, 4.88s Yaesu FT-1900R, Larsen 150B NMO Mount Antenna
    Wells Cargo has some interesting construction methods, it's all .120 tube.. Switched out to a 2 5/16 hitch.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]





    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Yes, that angle iron doubler is fully welded on the top..
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2014
  11. Nov 4, 2014 at 4:22 PM
    #4351
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    The less weight the trailer is, the more payload. As long as it can support it, thinner steel is better.
     
  12. Nov 4, 2014 at 4:25 PM
    #4352
    jeverich

    jeverich Well-Known Member

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    Roger, roger - it was more so the fact that there was about 10 feet of wire underneath the welds.. Think someone was trying to fill a gap.
     
  13. Nov 4, 2014 at 7:50 PM
    #4353
    koditten

    koditten Well-Known Member

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    Kirk
    Central Michigan
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    04 trd x-cab 4 x 4 3.4l
    Reserected from the dead.
    Switching couplers has got to be one of the worse jobs. Getting the old ones off is usually a big pain in the ass. A bit easier now with a plasma cutter, but still lots of work.
     
  14. Nov 4, 2014 at 9:22 PM
    #4354
    llibrm

    llibrm OH NOOOOOO!

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    Pelfreybilt Aluminum Bumper, KING 2.5 on all four corners, 4x4 illuminated switch, Cobra 75 w/ 3' Firestick, 2M/ 70cm Radio w/ Diamond NR770HB, Pelfreybilt bed bar, Lightforce Stiker 170s, BD 20" OnX6, BD S2 ditch lites, BD Fogs
    So Im looking for advice...

    Im taking a class and Im currently attempting t-joints. Welding horizontal but the T is vertical if that makes sense. I can run a stringer as a root pass just fine each time. The instructor is very pleased with that. Tells me my angles look good and speed is smooth while penetration is solid. However, when I go to run my weave over the top, Im getting undercut along the top or vertical strap.

    1/4 x 2 strap at a 90* angle
    1/8 6013

    Ive tried running as low as 105A but thats too cold and as hot as 130A causing greater undercut and splatter.

    I know there is no 1 answer fix but Im looking for advice. When moving between that top and lower edge, Im pausing to allow buildup but Im not sure if the pause is too long or too short. Is my speed too slow entirely and I need to make shorter pauses and a tighter weave?

    Any insight is greatly appreciated.

    Cheers
     
  15. Nov 4, 2014 at 9:45 PM
    #4355
    llibrm

    llibrm OH NOOOOOO!

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    yeah sorry.

    Its a fillet we're doing 2F posistion

    Im trying to upload pics at the moment
     
  16. Nov 4, 2014 at 9:50 PM
    #4356
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    Pausing too long will lead to excessive reinforcement. Not sure how your instructor will view that. AWS doesn't like it, but in the real world I would accept excessive reinforcement. Pausing longer or tightening your weave can solve a lot of undercut, so experiment and see which works. I'm guessing it's both though.
     
  17. Nov 4, 2014 at 9:52 PM
    #4357
    llibrm

    llibrm OH NOOOOOO!

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    Here are some pics of what I did tonight
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    The hot and cold only refers to the coupon being quenched or not. It is not referring to the amperage
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2014
  18. Nov 5, 2014 at 6:22 AM
    #4358
    llibrm

    llibrm OH NOOOOOO!

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    Yeah, I know that arc length can really exaggerate the undercut. They made mention to the "Flame". I can see the flame, but dont think its possible to eliminate it other than jamming the rod into the flux. But doesn't that lead to inclusions?
     
  19. Nov 5, 2014 at 6:24 AM
    #4359
    RAT PRODUCTS

    RAT PRODUCTS Well-Known Member

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    It almost looking to me like you hug the bottom piece and need to come up further on the vertical piece. On a couple you didn't come out far enough on either piece so you have lack of fusion at the toe. I can't tell what size fillet you have, but make it wider if you can. Go faster through the middle and pause longer on the sides so you don't get a big crown.
     
  20. Nov 5, 2014 at 12:12 PM
    #4360
    yota243

    yota243 Well-Known Member

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    Bw s256 turbo with 3 in glass pack dumped pre axle raptor liner bed and top rails and fenderflares and rocker panels. Hunter side steps. Plasti-dipped upper fenders and emblems. satin black spray paint here and there inside and out. 5100's set to 1.75" up front . C channel front bumper. Maxxis bighorn 255/85/16
    so my dad's old century arc welder finally konked out this past weekend, and he is now in the market for a replacement since the old guy that was gonna work on it said it was so old he couldnt get parts for it. we most use it for farm equiptment repairs (not too many hopefully) and i built a bumper and i have made a few ladder stands before. so its not that it would see heavy traffic, but light to moderate i would say, this year is the most hours its seen in a while due to my bumper and some bracing on a bush hog we had to do, and may be what did it in. he said he noticed the braker was flipped and when he flipped it back on there was a pretty good pop, and then nothing.
    he said he was gonna break down and buy a mig welder, the guy at the repair shop recomender a supply shop near where we live, but said they carry mostly chinese stuff (i assume they carry better brands he was just saying what he thought would be closer to dads price range, and i'm not sure what the brands are b/c i havent been in to window shop yet) but would be fine for what we use it for. he also said the price for a 250 amp would run around $1300 +/-. i decided before we went there i would check online to see what a comprable online price would be and found eastwood 250 mig for about $900. also found a hobart for $1500. So the supply shop is all but out of the question since for ~$100-$200 more we can get a good welder, or for ~$400-$500 less we could get possibly the same quality welder.
    looking for input and any experience with the eastwood (which i have read is a lincoln clone, and i saw that on the internet so it must be true) and opinions on what yall would do in this situation.
     

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