Anything welding

I've definitely done that with actual tig welding and a second filler rod

 

I just built a relentless rear bumper for a customer…I think this makes number 18 I have built from relentless. the recovery points are pre cut and align with the vertical supports for the winch cradle in the front kit and with the frame mounting brackets on the rear application. the gap on the back side is about 1/8". when you weld the front of the clevis hanger in focus mainly on your aesthetics ( I usually big the front side of the clevis. on the back side the gap has a large surface areas with a perfect gap to make a couple of passes. do the clevis mounts dead last. I usually wait until after I have completely welded the entire bumper and sanded it down. you don't need to work about preheating it. just set you heat on "kill" and go slow. don't try to weld the entire back side in one pass. I usually do the back side let it cool, top and let it cool, and the the bottom…let it cool and repeat for another pass. I will try and get some pictures for you. All in all the relentless kits are well thought out. I have had some quality issues with fitment on some of them but nothing a belt sander or die grinder will not fix

 

Understood, but does one perform better than the other? ie, easier to connect/disconnect, provide a better seal, etc.

 

There is no difference between quality and quantity of air. They connect and disconnect the same. I like the industrial because you can get them at any farm store or auto parts store.

If you got a group of friends that use air tools, find out what they are using. Get the same that way if they need help or to barrow an air tool, you don't have to mess around with changing fittings.

I hardly ever see the automotive fittings anymore.

 

Are you working at Naughton?

 

Negatory

 

I made 15-20 plates (I lost count) for each position on MIG and flux core, my teacher would only let us bend the test plates once, he didn't want to bend anything we had already bent and passed.

Awesome, thank you for the info.

I got to play with TIG last week, very cool and lots of technique involved, then I got to move on to 6010 and 7018 this week (technically not on the syllabus, but oh well), I've done both 1G and 3G with the stick and it's fun, 6010 3G is a PITA for me though.
Hopefully gonna get to try the aluminum spool gun tomorrow or next week.

Ordered a Miller 211 (with spool gun) yesterday, should be here by mon-tue, I'll be excited to get it set up and do little projects around the house with it.

 

made this for the girlfriend

 

Question:
I know that welding galvanized metal can make you sick; does that remain true if it's ground down to bare metal prior to welding?

 

you can weld on it no problem if you've ground off the galvanization. make sure to grind off a good bit surrounding area though as well. even if you aren't welding directly on a galvanic coating, the heat from where you are welding can still burn the coating from an inch or two away.

stay in a well ventilated area, and when in doubt......respirator.

 

Anyone made a CO2 tank mount? I will be adding a tank mount to the swingout I am working on, and don't really want to spend ~$75 for something I could make. I was thinking of two plates at 90*, then maybe a big ratchet to hold it to the bracket? Quick Fists look like I good option, but don't think I will trust them with a 20# tank.

 

The Long Arm QF holds up to 50lbs with a breaking strength of 120lbs.

 

Correct, however the tank weighs 50# when full, so 2Gs of acceleration, which I think is pretty likely offroad, will exceed the combined 100# for 2 QFs. That is without any safety factor as well, which should be considerable in an application like this. The QFs will probably hold in most applications, but I don't think I would consider them "safe"

 

Use three then











I agreed that a strap is a better option.

 

Dunno if you could source a large enough mount for you application - but we've got about 10 of these on the boat I operate, and they hold up well.

Barring that, some kind of strapping and a cradle seems to be a better option than a QF.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

Whoops...

This:

http://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/57000077?item=57000077&fromRR=Y

 

Welded with the new 211 today, I'm happy with it.

 

So im looking into a larger "new to me" welder.... My dad currently has a small 110 Century mig W/ gas. It does fine for small stuff, welded my exhaust up really nicely. But the thicker stuff it stuggles with For instance sliders, frame work, etc... Overheats often when welding long beads or thicker metals. I'm getting better, and looking to upgrade to the next level. Looking into millers or lincolns or hobarts. Opionons? As always money comes into play. The Century is a cheap welder i know. But im prepared to drop up to a grand on a used unit. I found an almost brand new hobart 230 for 1000 bucks. Nice unit?

Thanks in advance for opinions!

 

Like you, I started on a Century. I wish I would have kept it. It worked awesome almost anything automotive. If you decide on a 230 volt machine only, it would be good to keep it as a back up.

I like stand alone welding machines. Main reason, thrives are lazy. They will take other stuff before they will blow a grape trying to rip off a heavy welded. Just one of my quick opinions.