Anything welding

I mean the 6013 cap would literally be for looks. I know I shouldn't care what it looks like but I do. So you are saying for this application ignore both 60's all together and just run 1/8" 7018 so I can run it once and not need to do double work? I just already have the 60's on hand and it's what I've been learning but I'm down to try the 70's if it's better for the application.

 

If you're welding to frame, I'd used 7018. Stronger and more flexible, when frame flexes weld wont break. What are you welding, you might only need a pass or 2 of 7018? Post a pic of what you're gonna be welding.

 

Don't have it ready yet, but basically I am fixing an issue I have had with my 4x bumper since I bought it. The mounting holes have a lot of space in them, that allow for adjustment and bumper placement:



I am welding 1/4" L's onto the frame to keep the adjustment exactly where I want it. Mostly because after every hard hit to the rear bumper it pushes the bumper up and forward making me unable to open my tail gate until I jump on the bumper and move it back to where it was again. The only other option is to drill through the 3/8" steel on the bumper and through the frame to make an additional bolt hole. I figure making these weld on stoppers is an easier solution and lets me practice more.

 

Oh, well for just some stops you could use anything you want really. No need to run multipass with only 1/4" material. I'd likely use 3/32" 7018, but you could easily use 6011 downhill and get a pretty bead.

 

You overestimate my very new welding skills. I'll grab some 7018.

 

A few random xrays, spool pieces and sch80 chill water stick.



Sch10 root


7018 cap



Inside reactor repairing cracked coil. Breathing air hood

 

Hell yea. I’m practicing my stainless stick on pipe currently. Bottom is ugly. Top is perfect.


Trying to figure out what I’m doing wrong as I’m going around the pipe lol like rod angle or speed or idk. Something is changing.

 

I know I've asked it here before, but how critical is it to store 7018 in a rod oven for a hobbiest? Seems like most people DGAF when it comes to this rod for our applications aside from maybe a weather proof container. This is one of the only things that have kept me from purchasing 7018's to begin with.

 

7018 will go bad if it sits out in humidity for a while, so I just buy as much as I need generally. If you keep it in a sealed package they will last longer. Also if you have an AC only machine make sure you get 7018 rated for AC.

I highly recommend grabbing a chunk of plate 6"x6" or so, at least 1/4-3/8" or thicker. Then just start running beads. Learn how to stack them, how to keep them straight, etc. weldingtipsandtricks is a great resource online. The more you practice, the best you'll get.

 

To be Young again with all the new high tech goodies

The JLG lifts of all kinds make it so much easier

 

Now for code work it needs to be in a oven.

I have found hitting it with the oxy-fuel torch takes most of the moisture out .

I picked up a few Toaster Ovens over the years depending I pop 2 or 3 pounds and heat while I do the layout cutting drilling etc

Any of the Low hydrogen rods run much better when they are dry.

They run poor when damp till the heat of welding drys them out .

might be why people complain they are hard to weld

Just talking about the 7018 AC the regular don`t work very well on AC

 

Are you comfortable when welding the bottom ??

Able to see the poodle from your position ?? Causing you to be distracted by the women holding the poodle.

comfort and being able to see

Arms getting tired to fast ??

 

That’s kinda why I was asking about the 60’s cause it’s what I have been practicing with and getting good at. Was trying to master that before I went to 70’s.

I was wondering if a cheap toaster oven would work well for this.

 

For a hobbiest , most people just store them in an outdoor fridge and seal them up the best they can.

It only becomes a big deal when you get into serious stuff.

If I was building a redneck one then I’d get a fridge and put a heat lamp in it of some sort.

 

ALSO FUCK STAINLESS STEEL STICK 6G lol. 1/8” 316. Trying to get used to travel speed and angle and all that. A lot tricker than 70. Hard to watch the puddle cause it freezes so quick.

 

Tried 3/32 7018 @ 90 amps
Slight push uphill. Flattened the bead out nice. Thanks for the tips.

 

He is improving.

It will get smoother the more welding you do.

 

The trouble with the fridge is it gets so hot just from a regular bulb the dam bulbs get to hot and burn out .

Till one factors a thermostat or timer you may as well get a small oven the vertical kind that holds like 10 pounds

Outdoor fridge must be related to the garage fridge ?

In most cases the low hydrogen rods live in a plastic tube or the original box in the truck .

 

I thought welding was fun until I sat and welded in most of my new expanded metal floor in my trailer. 10' x 6.5' tilt. I welded front and back beads in what I thought were likely high load areas. Had my welder set at 120a with med (5 of 10) wire speed with 0.035 wire. Each spot was 2-3 seconds. I have a Hobart 150.

Man, it is solid as walking on plate after those spots were added. Zero flex. I hope that prevents the usage induced sags you usually see in this type deck. Also, I bought some really heavy stuff ($70/sheet). I'd estimate thickness at about 3/8".

Hopefully finish the deck this afternoon. I am going to close in the inboard side of the wheel wells before I paint it. Probably add some hooks of some sort on the rails too. It had an old manual (steering wheel/shaft to crank it) winch mounted on it. Not sure if I'll put it back or go electric.

 

been debating adding expanded metal to mine instead of the plywood. the only thing holding me back is that the plywood is quite a bit lighter considering i have to push it over some rocks and behind the garage.