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Anything welding

Discussion in 'Garage / Workshop' started by EL TACOROJO, Sep 17, 2010.

  1. May 19, 2019 at 9:14 AM
    Rakso

    Rakso CeRaTi

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    :spending:
     
    koditten likes this.
  2. May 20, 2019 at 11:43 AM
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    @weldertaco and any other stick guys out there, are these a good start? Honestly am looking for any advice. First time working with thicker stuff and I want to make sure penetration looks good.
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  3. May 20, 2019 at 12:01 PM
    la0d0g

    la0d0g Its 4 o’clock somewhere

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    Cut your welds in half and you'll find out :D
     
    Running Board Man and stumbles like this.
  4. May 20, 2019 at 12:09 PM
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    That I can't do on this particular piece, but might cut myself some to play with. Also I was amazed at how easy it would be to burn through the 3/16, on some of the bigger gaps I saw the puddle drop in. Makes me very nervous about working on the thin ass 1/8" frame. But I also will be using 3/32 rods on the frame as opposed to the 1/8 I used on these pieces.

    EDIT:

    The top weld on this photo is referring to where the weld puddle dropped in a bit on me.

    [​IMG]
     
    la0d0g likes this.
  5. May 20, 2019 at 12:45 PM
    kystnTRD

    kystnTRD Ramblin Man

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    Try some 7018. 60series rod is good for dirty steel but 70series will lay in much nicer on clean steel. Good rule of thumb for setting your amps is just divide the rod size. For example 3/32 diameter rod 3÷32= .9375 so 94amp that will give you a good baseline to adjust from. Works on all diameters. From there you can work on your consistency and travel speed
     
    Canadian Joe likes this.
  6. May 20, 2019 at 1:00 PM
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    I want to but I was hoping to master the 60's first. But I do know the 70's are better for close fitups. 6011 is good for bigger gaps/roots correct? I also hate that I can't store the 70's properly, but I do agree it's the best option for the work on my frame. I've been writing the best amperage that's been working for my rods so far. Since my machine is the AC225, it only lets me adjust amps in like 15 amp increments IIRC. I typically go on the lower end of the range it says on the rod package and then go up if the rod can't maintain the arc.

    Maybe I'll just dive into the 70's since it's really what I should use on the frame. Can use it to reinforce my skid plates first as practice.
     
  7. May 20, 2019 at 2:16 PM
    INBONESTRYKER

    INBONESTRYKER Well-Known Member

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    Be sure to get 7018 AC rods.
     
    Running Board Man likes this.
  8. May 20, 2019 at 2:16 PM
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    I would use 6013 if I had to weld a frame with that process.

    Do what you need to do to control the heat

    It has been so long since I used anything but 7018 or 10018 or 7010
     
  9. May 20, 2019 at 3:31 PM
    weldertaco

    weldertaco Mr.13%bodyfat

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    Man I’m a fan of the whip motion with a circle. A cursive lowercase e really.

    Some welds look okay and others don’t. You can tell you’re not consistent with your motions and arc length. It looks like the whip and pause worked best for you as others you didn’t Feed enough rod.

    Really in a non rude way, your welds are just kinda all over. Need to figure out a consisten pattern and then improve from there.

    Keep it cool while practicing and first learning and don’t be afraid to slow down. I still to this day struggle with trying to go too fast.
     
    jubei and INBONESTRYKER like this.
  10. May 20, 2019 at 7:24 PM
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    I forgot to mention that I realized I’m just going to be tacking the metal in for the stuff on the frame, so 6013 will work. My buddy will be bringing his mig for me to burn it in.

    I whole heartedly agree. Some times I didn’t realize arc length was to far or too close till sound changed. I did like practicing the whip and pause because I just felt like I understood it. But I kept going with circles because I felt like it was something I was familiar with with MIG. I have some thicker stuff to weld soon, I’ll try the whip and pause for that.

    This was one of my favorites, but judging by the length of the pools, it’s too fast right?

    [​IMG]

    And most importantly, looks aside, do they look strong?
     
  11. May 20, 2019 at 7:50 PM
    GoJo

    GoJo Well-Known Member

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    IMG_20190519_153043499.jpg
    Bed bars for dads truck got his new rtt

    Still learning, any feedback appreciated.

    EDIT: realizing that is a horrible picture. Didn't notice it was so blurry when I took it. My bad


    IMG_20190520_170819871.jpg
    MVIMG_20190520_170744860.jpg

    Back door for my bed rack. Keep the dogs in at night while camping
     
  12. May 20, 2019 at 9:06 PM
    mjbtaco

    mjbtaco low and slow

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    PERFORMANCE Custom GT3576 Turbo Setup FRONT SUSPENSION Lower Ball Joint flip 01-04 Swaybar Endlinks Energy Suspension Endlink Bushings Custom Upper Control arms by KANE QA1 coilovers with 8" spring Custom 4 pot Brembo BBK Modified lower control arms with Beefed Taco qa1 mounting plates REAR SUSPENSION Chasis Tech drop leafs QA1 adjustable shocks weld in drop notch Gas tank cross member bridge 3" angled blocks 2013 Double Cab Short Bed TRD Sport Eibach Pro Truck Shocks front and rear Lifted to the 3rd setting on the front shocks
    I'm on vacation but my friend sent me pics of my next project. Coilover adapters for 2nd gen 5 lug Tacomas. Gonna weld them up when I get home this weekend.

    IMG_20190520_203259_086.jpg

    IMG_20190520_203302_311.jpg
     
  13. May 21, 2019 at 6:25 AM
    cynicalrider

    cynicalrider #NFG

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    Also looking down the tube I can see the heat from the welds.

    D860DEF6-ABE8-4D4E-8C49-C496F48DD912.jpg

    Considering how thick this is I assume that’s a good sign of penetration but not sure. :notsure:
     
    Bigdaddy4760 and Rakso like this.
  14. May 21, 2019 at 6:27 AM
    EatSleepTacos

    EatSleepTacos Well-Known Member

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    Haha that’s how I always judge penetration, not sure how good that really is though. I just look at the back of what I’m welding and if there’s consistent heat marks I call it good.
     
  15. May 21, 2019 at 12:51 PM
    Wyoming09

    Wyoming09 Well-Known Member

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    By far the best thing outside of a bend test is to Weld a Tee Joint on one side and break it.

    Shows just what you have .

    If you use 4"x4" pieces you can weld quite a few joints
     
    Bigdaddy4760 and koditten like this.
  16. May 21, 2019 at 8:29 PM
    Rakso

    Rakso CeRaTi

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    Have you tried any of these?
    20190521_201110.jpg
     
    Bigdaddy4760 and Shmellmopwho like this.
  17. May 21, 2019 at 8:35 PM
    Shmellmopwho

    Shmellmopwho Well-Known Member

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    I use the benchmark abrasives on the right and they’ve been great so far. I buy those flap discs and cut off wheels. Cheap and last quite a while
     
  18. May 21, 2019 at 8:36 PM
    Rakso

    Rakso CeRaTi

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    I've got both brands for $10 for 10 flap disks. Multiple grits.
     
    Shmellmopwho likes this.
  19. May 21, 2019 at 8:36 PM
    Shmellmopwho

    Shmellmopwho Well-Known Member

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    Seriously can’t beat that price
     
    Rakso likes this.
  20. May 21, 2019 at 8:38 PM
    01Tac0ma

    01Tac0ma Bash Fabriction & Off-Road

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    Look at build!
    Ive used the benchmark abrassives and theyre ok.. I found some Walters on sale on Amazon for about half price and I tell you what, id buy them for full price all day over any flapper ive ever used. I did a SAS, built a couple sets of sliders 2 bedracks and some furniture before using up 1. I bought a brand new dewalt xl wheel today and it burnt up already. Im 100% sold on those Walters when I order! Ill look for a link.

    Edit: heres the link..

    https://www.amazon.com/Walter-Surfa...teway&sprefix=walter+flex,aps,227&sr=8-3&th=1
     
    Last edited: May 21, 2019
    Drainbung likes this.

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