Apollo 3.0 shrouds and inner LEDS

Yeah the shaft is shorter. I had to shave the back reflectors a bit

 

I'm learning that the hard way right now. I can't get the Cap to hold the bulb inplace because all I can get is 2 threads. I've done FX-R's that take less time than this.

Can you describe what you mean by shave the reflectors? Maybe I'm tackling this the wrong way.

 

Of course you can't go back stock after you shaved it. I used the hex nut not the round ones.

 

Thanks. I'm not worried about going to stock I just don't want it to get weak and break. Guess it's time to bust out my dremel tool.

 

Well finally done.

Here are some notes:

1. You DO have to shave/cut/modify your headlights to make the Mini DS2 3.0's fit. I've talked to 7 different people, every one of them had to modify lights. 5 more threads on the projectors and it would of been plug n' play.

2. Thew new cap system sucks. My bulbs jitter like crazy. I've verified the bulb is doing the jitters by replacing the cap with one from the Mini DS2 1.0's. Works prefect.

3. Light output is really good. Much better than the DS2 1.0's I had by far.

4. LED's are F-ing BRIGHT! I love them.

5. On the Apollo 3.0 shrouds the inner LED is not prefect and does take some work to get it to sit just right. Someone suggested JB Puddy weld and I can say that stuff is a life saver for these builds.

Now that I know how much modification is required to get these to install I would not recommend them to a novice head light builder. These are about as much work as an FX-R setup is. Since I already had the parts I'm pretty pissed that I had to modify my head lights so much and only have DS2 3.0 projectors vs FX-Rs which are much better. Oh well, lesson learned.

 

Glad it worked for you!

 

Like a charm!

 

This is not encouraging ha. I am about to do my very first retro fit with DS2's and Apollo 3.0's....

 

Plan on cutting and never having the ability to out stock bulbs back in.

It's not hard but I was annoyed that its not plug n play as TRS told me. Learning the hard way is always fun.

 

Revival because I am doing the same job. I have already used jb weld on 3 points for the inner halo. Now I'm wondering if I need to use jb weld to hold the Apollo 3.0 shroud on?

 

I used a slight dab on the little hook things.

 

On those 5 spring tabs? I thought about putting some around the ring where it touches the projector.

 

The 5 spring tabs touch the metal part. I used I slight dab on each hook and I have had no issues with it. I felt like it was very secure. Just when you put it on have the projector face up while it dries.

 

Same here.

 

And don't go crazy. It can drip into your bowl and high beam solenoid. Ask me how I know

 

I thought about that, but I was mostly worried about dripping it on the lens. So I waited until it was more tacky and would stay in place, and a bamboo skewer.

 

They make a JB weld that's not liquid but high heat putty. It doesn't drip and that's what I used, held up just fine.

 

I got a question for you guys.. what do you do if your led halo burns out? Using jb weld.. isn't that gonna be a bitch to get out? As well as the shroud welding that in too?? Or has no one had any burn out as of late? Planning out my second retro set and want to use jb but am anxious about it as my last set had multiple multiple issues with the halos..

 

I never jb weld my halos for that very reason. But their new switchbacks improved a lot. I have yet to have any leds burn out and I had them since they came out.

For shrouds, you can flex it and it will come off eventually. Done it plenty of time and Andrew recommended it to me

 

My halos burned out, a hard quick tug got them out. Then rocking the shroud back and forth a couple of times got that off.