AR-15 BS Thread

I searched and couldn't find a thread for AR10. I was hoping to get a thread specifically for those guns b/c there is so much info in here

AR10 BS Thread | Tacoma World

 

So, apart from the obvious...why would you need to have a gun that fires 5.56 rounds instead of .223?

I know NATO rounds pack more of a punch and all that but, both would stop an animal or person. Both go through pretty much whatever your shooting at. Now, if you’re active duty and in a warzone...that’s a different story.

Educate me.

 

For me, I bought a 5.56 so that I could shoot 5.56 and .223. With a .223 barrel, you're stuck with .223. That's how I understood it when I first started buying anyway


But, I did buy a 223 Wylde.....so........

 

A. You're probably seeing .223 Wylde chambering, not .223 Remington. Wylde is basically 5.56 NATO with tighter chamber specs (resulting in potentially greater accuracy at what I presume is a slightly, maybe even negligibly, shorter barrel life).

B. 5.56 NATO (and .223 Wylde) can shoot 5.56mm NATO and .223 Rem safely. Rem-chambered rifles may or may not be able to shoot NATO safely.

 

Just nice to have the flexibility to shoot both.

 

Just ordered 5 of these knockoff SB3A braces. They even have "SB" on the end like the real ones. I just couldn't stomach paying $150 for a brace when I could get 5 for 1.

 

if its the Amazon one i have the knock off MFT one and it looks and feels like the real thing lol even with logo.

 

I got a knock off in a trade. Felt flimsy/cheap and the QD points wouldn’t lock my swivel, it would pull out easily.

 

The one I bought off Amazon is no longer available.
This is allibaba or aliexpress. I paid with PP so I'd be covered. I would love to be able to support an American company, but at 5 times the price I just can't do it for this item. The one I have on my EPC-9 even has the "SB" on the end.

 

I use the QD on the PWA end plates, so I've never even tried the ones on any of my Magpul stocks. The ones I just ordered may very well have that same problem, but at this point....it is what it is and may be a lesson learned

 

yea i was just saying that its the same quality pretty much lol

 

I'm sure the ones I ordered are built for SB, but probably didn't pass their QC. The reviews for the one off Amazon said the brace had some "burrs" that needed to be cleaned up. Mine didn't have a problem at all.

 

So, I get how depending on how the gun is built, you may be able to use both or just one. I re-read my post and I didn’t ask my question correctly.

I guess my question is; why would you choose 5.56 over .223?

Both will get the job done...

 

Because the store has boxes of 5.56mm and not .223? Because you want to shoot specific loads for one reason or another? Because you're reloading and you've got a line on cheap, once-used 5.56mm brass? The real fact of the matter is that barrels chambered in 5.56mm are way more common than those in .223 Remington. TBPH, you'd probably be hard-pressed to even find the latter (that's not actually a 5.56mm or .223 Wylde barrel).

 

The small differences in the cartridge for military/civilian use. So if you want steel core/tracers, things of that nature it'll be in 5.56.

 

Got it. Thank you for the info. I have run .223 through an AR-15 years back when I learned how to shoot. That day I practiced a lot and was trying to improve my aim with it by aiming at a stationary target about 70 yards or so away that was placed up against a hillside. I saw what a .223 round can do when it impacts multiple types of targets and thought to myself, “why would I need 5.56 rounds in this?”. That’s what sparked the question.

 

.223 or 5.56, they're not gonna be able to tell the difference...

 

I'll add two to the stamp collection.



Geissele 2 Stage NB trigger and Aero NB BCG on the way, then I'm done and it's on to a .300 build. I may get a WOT just for the hell of it, I can't stop thinking about it. But the .300 will be a from the ground up build and first I've ever done. Every part "unique". I do enjoy this stup on my AR, so likely the stock, grip, foregrip and WML will remain the same for the .300. I do want something with a shorter barrel and a longer rail system that covers the suppressor for that one.

I do have one issue with the WML here, this being the first time I have ever used an O-Light for anything, I noticed that the tail caps locking system is seriously weak. I have not had an issue while drilling or anything else... yet... but all it takes is a small press forward on the round housing of the tail cap to knock it forward and it unlocks. There is also no "low" setting when using the switch. It defaults to high. Not a big deal, but if the light offers it, maybe there should be a programing to chose if I want always high, low/high, high/low, or always high. It's been the reason I've chosen streamlight since the military stopped issuing overpriced surefire stuff So maybe for the .300 I'll stick with a streamlight. I do really like this light though, but O-Light seems to always have some weird ticks to every single light. There is always something odd... anyways...

Quick question here:
Can I bin the can on the .300 and just do a single stamp? Recommendations? PM me please.

 

If they have the 4 dots on the back (mold marks I think) then they were made in the same place. If they don't, then they were made somewhere else. That's the number 1 way you're supposed to be able to tell the difference between clone and real sba3's. And the clones have black roll pins not silver.

The dots on a real one. (pic of the Googles)

 

Good to know. They're suppose to be here Jan 12th I think. I'll post a pic when I get them. I have no doubt they won't be as good as a real SB3A, but the $169.99 price was just to big a pill to swallow for my uses.