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ARB Compressor Wiring

Discussion in 'Technical Chat' started by Dark Knight, May 4, 2011.

  1. May 4, 2011 at 4:33 PM
    #21
    05tacoSPORT

    05tacoSPORT Well-Known Member

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  2. May 4, 2011 at 4:51 PM
    #22
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight [OP] Well-Known Member

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    hahaha I'm not the greatest at wiring without a diagram. I'm not going to worry about the dimmer feature, just going with, On with the headlights on.
     
  3. May 4, 2011 at 4:56 PM
    #23
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    I dont remember the location but yes it was an empty spot. Just use the voltage tester and see what is hot when the head lights are on, and not when the head lights are off.
     
  4. May 4, 2011 at 4:56 PM
    #24
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Will do thanks for the info.
     
  5. May 4, 2011 at 8:33 PM
    #25
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the help guys. Refer here for the solution for wiring just using the ARB harness and having the switch light only on with the other dash lights. Dimmer not needed the switch light is very comfortable without needing to dim it.

    The answer was in front of me the entire time.
     
  6. May 4, 2011 at 9:25 PM
    #26
    caribe makaira

    caribe makaira Lurker No More

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  7. May 9, 2011 at 10:15 AM
    #27
    pAP

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    DK - The rig is looking real nice! I will be wiring the same compressor up this weekend. Quick questions about the switch illumination the way yours is set up:
    A) If you have the lights off and flip the switch on, does the switch light up?
    B) When lights are on and you flip the switch, does it just get brighter indicating the compressor is running (ready to run)?

    I would imagine RED-YEL wire is for the "compressor on" illumination and BLU-WHT wire is for the switch light to help find it at night.

    Thanks
    Pap
     
  8. May 9, 2011 at 11:43 AM
    #28
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight [OP] Well-Known Member

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    A) Yes. I tapped into a loose switch connector behind one of the blanks, works flawlessly.

    B) There is a small running light that turns on in the switch to indicate its location when you flip on the regular light switch. When you turn on the compressor an on light indicates that the compressor is on, you will hear it running if it is running.

    I got an add-a-fuse connection that plugged in to an open spot in the fuse block behind the coin tray to wire the red/yellow to a "hot when key is on" location. I did it this way to ensure, for the most part, that the compressor would only be running with the engine on. The blue/white wire was connected to the loose switch connector behind a blank spot. I used the "hot when lights are on" wire. The dimmer function is not needed and does not work properly with our trucks being a positive ground for the lights.
     
  9. May 9, 2011 at 12:20 PM
    #29
    pAP

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    Thank you! Very helpful. The compressor just showed up today so maybe it will go in this week. I get antsy with these things. :)

    Pap
     
  10. May 9, 2011 at 12:24 PM
    #30
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Know what you mean. I worked until late the day after I got mine.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  11. May 11, 2011 at 7:29 AM
    #31
    pAP

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    Got mine done! Mounted the compressor in the same spot as yours and put the switches under the ac controls. Pretty straight forward install. Utilized 2 empty slots in the fuse box for the switches. [​IMG]

    Pap
     
  12. May 11, 2011 at 7:33 AM
    #32
    Dark Knight

    Dark Knight [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Nice! I was thinking of getting the 09+ dash piece like that but my 05 does not have any of the other fancy electronic on/off buttons to the left of the steering wheel. Figured I would fill them up first.
     
  13. Feb 7, 2014 at 8:28 AM
    #33
    grippy

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    Just FYI for anyone that wants the dimmer switch to work in the tacoma it absolutely does. The wire you need is a brown wire with black stripe located at the dimmer switch (or small harness of 5 wires coming straight down below it if you don't want to take the switch out). Here is the important part...remove any wire you have plugged in to switch tab #7 on you ARB switches (this is a ground wire from default with the arb instructions) and hook the illumination wire to tab 7. If you don't have the instructions it's the top right tab if you are looking at it from the back of the switch with the 3 tab column on the left and two tab column on the right. Now you just need to hook a positive 12volt wire to tab 6. You want to do the exact same for all switches if you have compressor, locker 1 , locker 2 switches hooked up. This setup works great however just like it says in the instructions you are still going to need diodes to keep the lights from getting hot. I hope this helps people out.

    UPDATE. I called ARB and they said the switch lights run hot and this is normal as they are not LEDs and just regular bulbs and will last for years. Diodes are not necessary and they use them on their harness for military purpose installs to not I create radio interference for communications.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2014
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