ARB install

I have been searching for two days and can’t find the correct part number. I’m searching for new carrier bearing for when I install my ARB. Arb USA was not able to give me a part number, same with ECGS, even thought you can buy a whole 3rd member from them lol.
Im waiting for call backs from two other local driveline shops. I haven’t had time to go confuse a parts guy at Toyota yet.

2017 Tacoma 4x4 SR v6 auto , 8 inch rear end

I’m installing An ARB RD 132.

I would like to install new bearing during the install, I can pull old ones and reuse but would prefer to have new on hand in case I damage old while removing. Any help would be great, thanks.

 

I finally tracked down the carrier bearing part numbers and confirmed at local dealer. The local dealers prices were double msrp. They quickly price matched the Atlanta dealer.

The small axle trucks, 8.0 inch, v6, non factory locker equipped, run the same bearing on the left and right side.

Part# 90366-t0010

The factory bearing OD is 83mm and the ID is 53. The ARB needs a 50mm ID. I purchased two -

Koyo - htcr100802-2

To install on the ARB132.

The larger axle, factory equipped locker, run separate bearings left and right.

Left part# 90366T0068

Right part#90366T0071

Here is a link to the Atlanta dealers site, easy for part numbers or price matching.

Hopefully I can do the locker install soon and post that up too.


https://onlineparts.toyotasouthatla...sory=0&isPerformance=0&searchTerm=90366-T0010

 

Post edited for bearing info.

I was able to install the ARB 132 into my Tacoma this week. My SR came with a 8.0 V6 rear axle. Another bonas for buying an SR. There are tons of after market parts available for this axle as well as junkyard parts...axle shafts. Installation of the locker was easy thanks to the side adjusters, no carrier shims required.

The new bigger rear end 8.3/4 in the off roads and manuals requires shimming of the carrier to set backlash and preload. I called the dealer just to confirm if you could order factory shims and was told none of the 60 plus thickness shims per side of the carrier are available. ARB includes a shim kit with there lockers for the bigger axles.

I pulled the axle shafts out of the third member, pulled it and made a stand for it on the fab table.

Backlash measured .019 to .021 with 49000 miles on the truck. The pinion was within specs for inch pounds of preload with no play or deflection. Wear pattern on gears looked good. I’m retaining the 3.90 gears for the time being.

New koyo bearing were pressed on.

I then drilled and tapped the the hole for the air line.

The ring gear was put in the shop toaster oven at 200 degrees for 20 minuets. Then installed on the locker.

ARB had warned that some pinion heads have interference with the body of the locker and that .020 clearance was needed. I had .015. I packed the diff with paper towels and had a friend come over and spin the pinion with a drill slowly while I sanded the top of the pinion with a 3 inch 40grit grinder. I remeasured and had .023.

I then spent 30 minutes cleaning the inside of the diff. No grinding dust or steel entered the pinion bearings.

Set up was easy. I tightened up the backlash to .009 to .011. The carrier or ring gear has about 0.003 run out.

Preload was set to two notches past zero load.

The pattern looked good, nice and centered.

I installed the diff back in the truck and all is good so far, nice and quite and running cool when measured with a temp gun.

The last picture is a preview of the air compressor, inverter, 12 volt power box for the truck bed.

 

If this gets stickied under DIY I need to turn this truck in....

Seriously, though, nice write-up,explanation, and pix. You are extremely talented.

 

Thanks

 

Three days later.....I finished the wiring in my truck. I ran 2 gauge welding cable back to the truck bed to power the compressor and morning star sure sine 300 inverter. The cables were wrapped in shrink tubing, corrugated wire loom then more heat shrink tubing, overkill but I can safely say it will never rub though. I wrapped about 5 feet of the loom with high heat reflective tape and fiberglass header tape where the lines pass by the pre cat and main catalytic converters. I did the same for the trigger wires to the arb compressor, locker solinoid, inverter relay, and train horn.

I ran the 2 gauge cables and trigger wires across the engine bay and down the passenger side of the truck. I did this for two reasons. The first is because the drivers side has the fuel and brake lines in the way. The second was because the factory fuel inlet is by the corner of the bed. The passenger was wide open the safer route to take.

All wires connected to the fuse panel and battery were left long so I can install a Bussman fuse panel later on and clean it up.

The cab was wired with 5 ch4x4 switches along with a usb outlet and a push button for the horn.

The arb cmk12 dual compressor draws 44 amps running and took a little over a minute and a half to fill the 5 gallon tank.

The compressor went up to 170 psi before kicking off. It cycles back on around 140 psi.

The trigger wires have a metro link plug outside of the box.

I can remove the power/air box in in under two minutes by disconnecting the trigger wire plug, removing the 2 gauge wires, and pulling out the push connector to the locker.

I now have a truck that I can use the locker any time I want, 2H, 4H, 4L and an inverter that is silent that can power movies or laptop for the kid on road trips or charge 18 volt battery packs for hand tools.

I might have to wire up the 2 low switch next!

After 6 days straight I’m ready to go back to work, or go exploring, just no more work on the S-tock-R truck....for a week or two .

 

It’s actually an 8.75 rear axle . Just an FYI. Not the same axle as the 2015 and before.

That is unless you are saying 8 and 3/4...Lol not 8.3/4. I know some people used to call the OR axles 8.3in/8.4in size wise.

 

8 and 3 quarter

 

Ahh ok thought so! I realized it right as I was typing.

 

And here I thought this post was going to be about what this truck really needs. A PLACE TO STORE YOUR ALLERGY NOSE SPRAY. I am about dying of allergies right now...

But seriously, great work and great documentation. If you do tear into 2Wheel Lo based off my write-up, please let me know how it goes. Haven't had anybody admit to having done it yet.

 

Thanks Man, and I will definitely post up in your thread if I do 2 Wheel Low mod.

 

so does this means my 2017 tacoma SR5 v6 automatic (w/out e locker) is 8” or 8.75”??

 

It should be an 8 inch. You can run the part number off of the axle through the dealer for positive Id also.

 

thanks! thats what i thought too, i think 8.75 are the manual transmissions but im not sure if with or without e-locker

 

Interesting choice by Toyota! I thought the axle was a carry over from the 05-15 Tacos without elocker. That's a 8" crown gear also though the 8.4" misnomer has kinda stuck... since everything else is the same from the second generation under there i wonder why they changed it.

Having done this recently on my second gen (though I chose an elocker) I'm curious what running temps you consider cool. Mine is definitely uncomfortably hot to the touch after freeway driving but it runs quietly and passed the heavy towing test.

But mine is shimmed which let me tighten up the bearing preload a bit over factory.

I'm also amazed that you found that much backlash. Mine was 7 thousandths all around and I shimmed it back to the same as the FSM specified a range of 5 to 8 thousandths.

On a side note the "shim" kits you get from ARB or ECGS suck in my opinion because they go inside of the bearings and not outside like factory. This requires you to buy new bearings for sure because you have to bore out the old ones and turn them into setup bearings. It also doesn't let you make the bearing preload as tight. So I spent about $120 on Toyota shims lol. Still saved money over a shop install

 

I used to run my truck really hard on the pavement. When I pulled the open carrier out there was hardly and preload on the bearing, I think I turned the side adjuster about a 1/16 of an inch and the carrier was loose. I think the rear diff was going out starting to fail.

I’ve heard some good things about the harrop lockers, in jeeps, I haven’t had s chance to use one yet. I was thinking about putting one in the front diff.

Edit-temps

I think I measured mine at 170 to 180F ( so our Canada brothers aren’t confused) degrees after a freeway run after install. I can shoot it with temp gun next weekend.