Arb twin compressor wiring question

Hey guys,

I’m getting ready to install my ARB twin compressor and front/rear locker lines. But I just wanted to make sure I understand the wiring. I’m not using the supplied ARB switches, I’m using the tall switches from CH4x4

I’m assuming the power (green switch wire) is connected to the yellow 1st solenoid wire as the “safety” feature that was mentioned in the manual? That way you can’t engage the front locker with out engaging the rear? Does this sound right?

thank you!!

 

The GREEN wire (Source/Input) of the Front Locker CH4x4 switch is bridged to the YELLOW (ARB harness color) / RED 1 (CH4x4 switch color) that corresponds to the output of the Rear Locker CH4x4 switch.

Same type of thing goes for the compressor and rear locker. The compressor output wire (RED 1) runs to the input/source wire (GREEN) of the rear locker — you just make a bridge. That way the rear locker cannot operate without the compressor on.

I can build you a wire harness that handles these connections if you need it. But it should be straightforward if you just want to use butt splices.

 

What? without air pressure the locker would not engage no matter what position the locker switch is in. Same for the compressor circuit, it needs an external source to juice the motor, even if the switches are "ON".

"-If your vehicle is equipped with factory auxiliary switches or a switching system other than LINX, you can use that system to turn on the compressor but not power the compressor. You must run the supplied power harness directly to your vehicles starting battery. On the switch side of the harness, connect the purple wire (CKMTA) or the red wire (CKSA and CKMA) to the switch system. If your vehicle is fitted with ARB Air Lockers, the yellow wire can be run to a separate switch in order to engage the rear locker and the green wire can be run to a separate switch to engage the front locker. Follow the remaining steps included with the switch or switching system.-"

 

With the compressor OFF the locker *can* be engaged if desired because the system maintains pressure. You can get 5 or so locks with the compressor off until the reserve air is depleted depending on the length of your air lines to the locker.

I installed a dump valve in my compressor/ locker system so that I can dump all system pressure. This eliminates the possibility of locking anything when using an independent switch for the locker/s.

 

If you want the "safety" feature in your switches then then the 12V switch source for rear locker comes from the 12V switch output that triggers the compressor. The 12V switch source for the front locker comes from the 12V switch output that goes to the rear locker's air solenoid.

 

I think you might be mistaking what I’m saying. In the diagram given from ARB the rear locker cannot be engaged (initially) unless the compressor switch is depressed. The output of the compressor is the input for the rear locker. The output from the rear locker is the input for the front locker.



You can get around it but I don’t think that’s what OP is asking.

 

Thank you all for the clarification, where’s the best place to wire the ignition and dash lights? I’ve seen a couple add a circuit but it doesn’t look like the fuse cover will go back on. Any suggestioons?

 

I understand "THAT", but you did fail to see the "without air" part...

 

The idea of the ISOLATION switch is for same reason SHIMSTACK stated, sort of. Build pressure to later activate the lockers and or have a manifold and storage tank to use air for other things not just the lockers.



Anyhow, FYI - depending on the type of compressor used and modified/personalized harness, there is a need for the switches used to be able to feed more than 3 amps to the circuit.