Tacoma 2.5" x 12-14" Shock Relocation 2005-2023 2nd 3rd gen Archive Garage

Scratch that. It’s clocked forward another 6 degrees from the first try which will give me another inch or so of bump.

 

looks okay. Your block of wood looks a bit tall and you could just put the bump stops in there while cycling to get an idea how much they'll compress, those are more concerning looking at the pics

 

maybe give your shock another .5 -1 in showing just in case too. Wouldn't want to rely on the little shaft bumps or shock internals too much. Even if you lose a little droop over it, it's better than losing money

 

I was able to get the bump to lift the truck and be almost right at the end of the shaft. I still have about 0.5” of droop left in the shock so if another pack flexes better than the Dakars I’m good there too. I didn’t realize how little rotation around the axle it took to make a change. I thought I was welding the new one back in the same exact spot haha definitely don’t want to do this a third time.

 

should be good. Congrats man !

 

Just wanted to point out that you have the long lower rod end on the Foxes which adds another inch to the collapsed length. Looks pretty good though, you do have that tall Wheeler's bump stop stand which limits bump travel. Like @not_nick said, the wood black looks tall, and if the block of wood is taller than the actual leaf pack, that would give you a false reading that you have more protection against bottoming shock than you actually do with pack assembled.

But you are doing it right, glad to see you articulated it for real world picture.
You have this better setup that a lot of people with other brand relocations.

 

I probably could have (and did for a while) got away with it how it was. I slid the rubber shaft bumps up to see exactly how much bump I was using and I never maxed out when both wheels bumped at speed. But if I stuffed one wheel crawling, I would ride the Fox bump and only compress the wheeler bump an inch or so. Hard to go fast and fully stuff only one wheel, but I didn’t feel right riding it crawling. I set the bump at full tilt this time. Gained an inch of bump and didn’t lose any down travel. Totally worth it.

Looks tall, but that block is the same thickness and taper as the Dakar heavies and a 2.5 degree shim believe it or not haha. When I ordered the shocks from Accutune I told them it was for your kit. I’m surprised they sent a longer rod end and I didn’t know the difference when I got it. Is it worth swapping out?

Also, thank you for making parts that I don’t have to tweak or alter to work right. Shock fit right in, mounts weld right up, ubolts are a better match than what came with the wheeler kit, good instructions…. Makes it so much easier to focus on getting things set right when you aren’t fighting shit all day.

 

I wouldn't worry about the lower rod end you're lower mount isn't hanging below the axle tube and is tucked up nice. I'd rock it like it is.

 

Good point. I might lose some droop if I change to a shorter end.

 

Yes you'd gain bump and loose droop. UNLESS you redid those lower mounts again. I mean they do say 3rd times the charm right

 

I mean, he wouldn’t gain any bump since the bump stop isn’t moving. He’d gain some extra shaft or clearance if he moved the lower mounts to match a shorter rod end. 12” Shock is a 12” Shock.

 

Haha no way I’m doing those again. Factory mounts come off easier than beefy Archive mounts for sure.

 

Shit, I wonder if I could have just changed rod ends instead of redoing the mounts…I only clocked it down about an inch…

 

Correct but the shock would show more shaft so he'd technically have more "potential" useable bump. He wouldn't gain any extra shaft or clearance by moving the lower mount to match the new rod end unless he rotated down even more. But moving it to where it nets the same results as he has here does nothing for shaft showing or clearance (unless you're talking GC).

 

Depends on the length rod end you have and the length of the short one. There are quite a few choices or at least there are with king.

 

There’s an option for one inch shorter which I swear I ordered and just thought that’s what I had. I’m curious to know what someone’s rod end measures that’s 100% sure it’s the short one.

 

I don't want to ask what someone's short one measures

 

Haha y’all whip out your rods and shafts. Let’s get some pics and measurements!

 

Yep, I was talking ground clearance off the axle housing.

Here’s a picture showing the difference between a 2” standard rod end from King and a 1” welded rod end from ADS. Same 14” stroke and body length.

 

Your eyelet is 2.95 top edge to center. That's typically standard for an off the shelf Fox shock cause it gives a little clearance for mounting (hitting all the funny terms). You can get one that's 1.95 top to center, i made the switch myself on mine.

For the record it is not a worthwhile switch on a 12in shock unless you're sending it in for rebuild, have the capabilities to take shocks apart yourself, know a guy that does. Plenty of room to move the axle mount around. On a 14in shock it is much more worth it since there isn't as much space to fit the shock without the axle mounts hanging super low. Still not something you wanna do if you can just order them with the shorter eyelet to start with.

Reason being is the eyelets are held on with red loctite and need to be heated to be removed. Takes a fair amount of heat and it takes little while to get it hot enough to melt the loctite without going nuts and melting the eyelet. Not worth it to mess with with the shock assembled and risk ruining your seals and shock oil, remove the bearings, buy shaft vice clamp jaws. Especially if they're charged then it's straight up dangerous.