Arcticelf's sold his truck BS thread

Alignment

Negative camber helps with grip on the corners. I'd like less Caster though.

 

Two months later the negative camber is a big improvement. Cornering is better, as is the tire wear pattern.

 

Solid mounted LCA and limit straps.

 

Air On Board:

Argon tank, regulator, and air hosewith chuck.

 

Custom angle misalignment spacers for my UCAs. This will take off the safety margin on the DK part, and let me get more down travel, limited but straps to save the steering and CV joints.

Marking 180 degrees:

Dykem blue layout fluid, and a square to ma4k off one half of the part.


Ground down by hand, keeping a smooth radius. Then using dykem to confirm both parts have the same angle and a smooth surface.

The final product.

The cut side will be on the down travel side, the original OD on the up travel side.

Overall I removed .05" of material.

 

Big thanks to Finch @fatfurious2, and some one else who happened to wander by for helping me install @Mobtown Offroad skids in the dark at the RC takeover last weekend.

 

Recent updates:
1) added the modified misalignment spacers and got a bit over an inch of travel back, with limit straps to protect the CVs.
2) installed gusseted spindles, new hubs, CV boots, and carrier bearing bushing mod from ECGS. All are wins, would recommend.
3) the damned front end clunk is still there, perhaps the radiator support bushing, perhaps something else moving.
4) repainted everything under the front and the sliders.
5) Dakar squeak is back, time for more spray lube.

Thank you @The Hunter for use of the shop to do all this work in the shade.

 

subbed

 

Thanks ks to Facebook I'm reminded of this debacle from two years ago.



A big fuck you to the guys who decided LCA cams bolts can be fitted dry.

 

Yeap. From You and I both

 

Subbed. Awesome build

 

Thanks.

 

The good: the massive clunk sound in the front end was actually a loose hi-lift mount in the bed allowing the jack to hit the bedside.

The bad: there is still a small noise up there, and it can be provoked by turning the wheel just so, when warm and stationary.

The ugly: I've had to re-clamp all 4 CV joints and re-grease thrm because of leaks. At least all the grease sprayed on the wheel well will help prevent rust.

 

This is why your led pods should be behind a piece of steel.

That was a relatively small tree, I know I didn't run over anything more than a 6' tall pine sapling.

I also put these two in the back:

 

Final front end clunk has been found and fixed: power steering rack was going, loose and clunky. Fixing the noise also makes driving on the highway much more pleasant.

Thanks to @HomerTaco for the hookup on ordering a new rack and @deeznutz for the install help. 10 hours in the cold to get it swapped out.

2 pro tips:
-Don't trust Toyota to give you the correct bolts, the OEM replacement rack bolts I got were 2" too short.
-Don't plan to re-use the old inner tie rods. Getting those things off is not worth it.

 

Got weighed: 2800# front, 2000# rear axle weight.

Half tank of gas, tool box.

 

Sliders for @Finch1018


Thanks to @TinyTech626

 

Glad they finally got on a truck. Even if it's not mine.

 

One side in peices for the night


One side done .

 

Weekend recap:
-Sliders and antenna mount welded on for @Finch1018
- @Dirt King Fab double shear UCA gussets added FTW
-drivers side outer CV rebooted, it had a very small tear.
-LCAs greased to make clicking/banging stop
-Uniball on the passengers slide lower has lost its PFTE insert, and makes a horrible noise. Don't use break cleaner on uni-balls.
- @Mobtown Offroad tailgate skin and cap installed.
- Measurements taken for custom front bumpers.