Are these alignment numbers ok?

???

 

I'm bringing my truck back up Monday to have them fix the alignment , should I tell them to get it within specs, or change just the camber within specs

 

My bad ,,,,or should I just leave it where it's at

 

How bad is the road crown where you live? Here in NC if they got that rt to 0 degrees so there was +3 degrees pos camber to the left youd' be good. Where my sister and BIL live in NJ they would need more so the truck wouldn't drift. I would have them get it within specs.

 

That's what I was thinking , just put it in spec and be done with it

 

I'd like to get any comments on my alignment. Yesterday I had new tires installed and an alignment done. The shop had a problem with their printer so they couldn't give me the before and after, but the tech said everything was "within specs". He said if I came back in today, I could get a print-out.

After the work yesterday, the truck pulled noticeably to the right (which it didn't do before). I checked it on several different roads at various speeds. Tire pressures were identical in all 4 wheels. They rechecked the alignment and printed out the results below. I also had the 2 front tires swapped sides. It's still pulling right. Is there anything in the alignment numbers that points to this? The only inconsistency I see on the report is they have the wrong tire size (should be 265/75, not 265/70). Would this make a difference?

Thanks for the expertise!

 

Unless you have a huge amount of road crown I don't a reason for the alignment to pull to the rt. Tire size on the print out isn't something to be concerned with. They could get steer ahead more centered or slightly to the left. When I did alignments I would always put toe dead center of the spec it is easy to adjust and get perfectly right. You already swapped tires side to side which could of bee a culprit.

 

I'm thinking of trying some air pressure adjustments next. Maybe I'll go up a psi or 2 on the right side and/or down on the left.

 

I'm not sure I would do that I think that there is a cause. If they can give you a print out with all the other measurements (if their machine will) like SAI and a few others. On the machine there should be a way to switch from the screen that the print out came from to non adjustable measurements. If not then I can't see if there may be something else going on.

 

why is it they always have a problem with the printer , ive heard that twice since ive got alignments done on my truck.. as for the pulling to one side, take it back there tell them its pulling to one side, tell them to test drive it, and check it again. its your hard earned money that you spent on something your not happy with.

 

He already did that and they didn't really do anything but recheck it. But yes they should do something.

 

We left it that I'd drive it for a few days and see if anything changed (not likely) and then come back in if necessary. I also did the chalk test today and found the tires to be a few psi overinflated. They're all at 32psi now, but I haven't taken it out for a ride yet. Tomorrow I'll do some highway miles and see how it feels.

It's just such a pain to have to keep going back, but I'm determined to get it right.

 

I do not see anything on the sheet that screams why your truck pulls right. If anything there should be a pull toward the side with the most +camber, and that would be your left. I suspect one of the following:
1. Tires. So try some swapping f-r, side-side and see if it goes away.
2. Uncalibrated machine. Yes, its more common than you think especially on older machines. This includes the heads.
3. Runout compensation. A good alignment tech will do that. Problem is finding a good alignment tech.
4. And have them run he diagnostic angles SAI and Included angle so we can see if there is something bent. It should have already been done whan you returned. Bet they don't know what these are.
5. Go elsewhere. That shop may not have a clue so time to move on. Call Hunter Engineering and get their contact that does the calibration and maintenance for their equip in your area. Ask for a reference or two of who they would take their cars to for an alignment.

 

Jonah, if your left camber angle was close to the right camber angle, say within .2 degrees, you'd have a very good alignment. It's going to take a mechanic who knows what he's doing because both alignment cams on the right or left side of a Tacoma or Tundra must be adjusted as both cams change both caster & camber on that side. Your caster is good. There's been some good advice given in earlier posts. The challenge you face is finding a tech who knows his stuff and who takes pride in his work. An alignment only shop or a front end/suspension shop is your best bet. I had to locate such a tech on my own. Once you find him keep up with him as they can change shops...it's not the shop, it's the tech. that's important hers. The Hunter director in Dallas would tell me nothing insofar as where to find such a person or shop in West Texas. Your Hunter representative might be more helpful.
For what it's worth, the following is a good target, at least for me: Total toe exactly in the middle of factory specs. Camber at zero both sides equal. Caster, between 2.0 and 2.5, both sides equal. Also, even tho' it's not adjustable, look at the thrust angle. At or very close to zero means your pickup is going straight down the road with a straight frame generally. Using the above specs, my Michelins have over 80,000 miles on them and the tread wear is even and sharp. The little pickup handles well. The above specs. will work on any Tundra or Tacoma, even those with a mild lift, and the specs are within the factory tolerances of almost all 1st generation Tundras and 2nd generation Tacomas.

 

If you set camber and caster the exact same you will get a drift from road crown. Thrust angle kinda has to do with how a vehicle tracks but not entirely. He does need to find a better alignment tech to work with. But like me and @Taco'09 stated about seeing the rest of the measurements like SAI and IA because those 2 measurements can tell us if there is something bent thatis not visible to the naked eye. No factory frame is straight period, there tolerances are +/- 1/4" at least in manufacturing for square. When I built race cars the tolerance we used was +/- 1/32". Now you compound all the tolerances a manufacturer has for location of pick-up points etc. and you could have some pretty cattywompus thing to deal with.

 

It sounds like my best course of action is to find another shop and get a 2nd set of data. You guys have educated me enough to at least know what to ask for...thanks!

It's raining here today, so I only drove around some of the local streets. The air pressure adjustment seems to have helped a little (or maybe it's just wishful thinking). There is still a drift right, even in parking lots at low speed. I'm hoping it's not a tire issue because I got them through the mail from Discount Tire Direct. If I have to do a return, that'll create a whole nother dilemma!

 

TSB for Vehicle Pulling to One Side
I keep this on my desk top for those having issues. It has now been updated to all 2nd Gens and later.

REPAIR_MANUAL_SUPPLEMENT_VEHICLE_PULLING_TO_ONE_SIDE_T-SB-0391-08.pdf

 

I'm sorry but I got a good laugh from that TSB. First damn those techs are getting paid well for simple tasks. Secondly that is all common sense shit and I guarantee in toyota already has those flow charts to solve the issue they just added to it. If a tech can't figure this out without a TSB there is a problem. Why did they even need a TSB so funny!!!!!

 

For a layman like me, this is very helpful info! Maybe a skilled tech doesn't need it, but the more I know the better. Thanks.