Are these alignment specs good?

All they did was adjust your toe. You want caster about even. I’d have them make the right caster equal to the left caster. That will help.

I would also have them put a slight positive camber on the left side, but that’s me.

 

Caster pulls to the side with less caster. You have less caster on the right, the side you are pulling to, by 1.2 degrees, which is called cross-caster (the difference between the sides). You want to have .5 degrees or less cross caster to not induce a pull. If road crown is a concern, you can make the caster angle a little less on the driver's side, BUT not more than .5 degrees cross-caster. So, good caster angle setup might be 2.4* (DS) and 2.8* (PS)

 

you guys are awesome, thank you. I saw that they only adjusted the toe and mentioned it but of course he said they were all “in the green, but the pull should be fixed.” It wasn’t and I picked it up at closing so not much I could do. Definitely taking it back. Thanks!

 

Just because the readings are "in the green" doesn't make them right. You could have caster or camber in the "green" one either side and the cross-camber or caster would be WAY out of spec. Any mediocre technician knows this. Unfortunately, the average customer doesn't know alignments and has to rely on the technician's expertise and honesty. It's a gamble sometimes

 

This is good advice. The OP's numbers would suggest that his alignment was a "toe and go" because those are the only numbers that changed, but in fact, his caster numbers were reversed from where they should be. As has been stated, but it seems like it always needs restating, caster tends to pull to the lower number. The exact numbers are not really that critical, but anywhere from equal caster to about .5 degrees less on the driver's side will work. You will not be able to tell the difference in a couple of tenth's of a degree but you typically do not want lower caster numbers on the passenger side, at least in a right hand drive scenario.

The second poster in this thread, well, his caster numbers are way off as is easily seen, and even though everything is in the green, it's a crappy alignment for both camber and caster.

The bottom line is that you need to be proactive and be able to have a conversation with your alignment tech while you're having your alignment done and watch the numbers in real time. Of course you need to be tactful and definitely not be ordering him around, but more like, "do you think it's possible to get the caster a little higher on the right?", and to be honest, every good alignment person I've run across starts with the passenger side caster on these trucks as that will set the tone for the rest of the job. Unless you've replaced suspension parts you most likely will not be able to dial in too much caster, so you max it out on the passenger side and then bring the driver's side to where it needs to be. It's not really that difficult and it's definitely not rocket science, but it's confusing to consumers and apparently confusing to all too many techs, who don't seem to understand that "just" getting in the green range does not mean a good alignment. And on top of all that, alignments have gotten expensive. I paid $160 a few month ago here in Culver City when just a few years ago they were floating around $100-$120.

 

How do these look? It is driving straight but giving me some vibes around 55 mph. I just got new tires 265/70 R16. No lift. I think I just need the wheel Balance tweaked.

 

Man, I hope you didn't pay for that alignment because they didn't do anything. All the numbers are the same, before and after. And what jumps out immediately are the caster numbers. They should either be equal left and right or slightly lower on the driver's side - by slightly I mean a .3-.5 degree differential, but you've got a 1.3 degree difference and it's the wrong way. That truck should be pulling noticeably to the right.

Unless your adjustment cams are frozen and cannot be adjusted, and if they were you should have been notified, the proper way to do this would be to max out the positive caster on the passenger side, which on a stock, non-lifted truck should be somewhere around +2.8 to +3.0 degrees and whatever that number ends up being, and it doesn't really matter if it's a couple of tenths one way or the other, and then the driver's side would ideally be, say +2.5 to +2.7. Remember that the vehicle will always want to pull toward the lower caster side. The camber and toe look fine.

I would have the alignment issues addressed, and not by the place you went to and re-balance the tires and see what happens.

 

Thank you so much for the response! Thankfully, the "alignment" was free with the tires. Sure I got a great deal on the tires but I could tell the place was short staffed and very busy. I am not surprised that they half-assed the alignment.

I will see if I can get in to a more reputable alignment shop ASAP.

Thank you again! That is great info!

 

Well, if it was free then you got your money's worth, but jeez, they didn't do anything. Did they even put it on the rack? I'm surprised they had the balls to actually give you the printout but maybe not since most don't know how to read and/or interpret them. Another example of why just having all the numbers in the green is not a good result.

 

I went back to have them re balance the wheels again to address the vibes. I did not have them do the alignment again because they suck at it.

They assured me the balance on all wheels are now perfect. (Im skeptical) I am still getting vibes around 55mph. They are not severe but enough to annoy me. Im fussy.

If the wheel balance is ok, could the vibes be caused by the crappy alignment job?

I ask because I have an appointment at a better place for the alignment next week but they don't do balancing. Should I make an appointment before the alignment get the balance done first? Or wait to see how it drives after the alignment?

Thank you again for your help! All this bullshit just because I needed mew tires...

 

How’s this for alignment? From the front kind of looks off. Trd sport premium on 3” lift with 255/80/17 tires.

 

Amazing for a 3" lift to get that much caster. I'd be thrilled. Do you have aftermarket upper arms?

 

Yes I have spc adjustable control arms.