Are these lug nuts going to kill me?

Lost the socket to my Jeep last week trying to remove the wheels for suspension work. Had to buy one of those emergency removal socket from autozone to get them off. Going back to acorns. OP, as for the lugs, they work fine.

 

I used these lug nuts on my Level 8 Mk6 wheels. Some people said I needed extended thread, some didn't. I bought the extended thread for piece of mind.

$48 DPAccessories 24 Black 12x1.5 Closed End ET Spline Tuner Lug Nuts for Aftermarket Wheels LCE3L6HESBK04024

https://www.amazon.com/DPAccessories-LCE3L6HESBK04024-Premium-Closed-End-M12x1-5/dp/B00SY38IAY

 

Thank you!

I did look at those but the ones I got are the same depth as the originals and those were obviously working well.
If I change wheels in the future I'll look at the ET ones again.
Thank you!

 

I also really don't lube my driveshaft.

Should I be? What do you guys do, just give it a coat over the whole thing? Wouldn't that just sling everywhere when I drive?

 

Not sure if serious. But grease is pumped into the driveshaft U-joints. IIRC PreRunners don't have zerk fittings on the U-joints, so nothing for you to do.

 

I appreciate the serious answer, thank you.
I am kidding, just messing with the boys
I did change all my u-joints so they do have zerks now.

 

Not all 60° tapers are the same...
Your OEM look like bulge conical.

 

O.P. just make real sure you are getting enough thread contact with them,some wheels need EXTENDED lug nuts.

 

For your shafts, don’t use spit because it doesn’t last long. Use KY. Yes it will sling everywhere but coat the whole thing. It always gets all over my 2” bulge...fenders

 

Ah ok, feel free to grease each nipple with a few pumps. There are three nipples like that girl in Total Recall

Like others said, the taper area on the spline drive lugnut you have is sufficient. Note the OEM shank-style lugnut also has a taper - that tiny taper is the only thing contacting the wheel when running the steel spare:

 

I did check on that, they are the standard tapered style.

See this is what worried me, that tiny taper being the only contact point, that seems like a big problem.

I have attached a picture for illustrative purposes;


My worry is that my original lugs (represented by the green on the right) have full contact with the seating area while the new lugs (represented by the red on the left) will only contact half, if that, of the seating area.

 

My point was your spline-drive lugnut still has a much broader tapered area than the OEM shank lugnuts, so you'll be fine.

 

They'll only kill you if fired at you at high velocity.


I've had the same lugnuts on my truck when I switched rims three years ago, no problems. I rotate my tires every oil change 6k miles nominal.

 

Hmmm, pneumatic maybe? Could be an alternative in the midst of this ammo shortage. Or load it like a slug in a 12 gauge, if it fits.

 

10 gauge minimum:

 

Dang, I's wondering about the 410 gauge shotgun size & it ain't on there

 

I shoot blanks.

 

‘course all the nut experts have failed to ask/mention if your wheels are ‘hub centric’.

the nuts are not the only thing ‘holding the wheel on’... in theory, the lugs of a perfect wheel CYLINDER on a perfect hub CYLINDER ain’t doing all that much, force wise.

 

What gauge is a 410 bore?
67½ gauge

The . 410-bore shotgun is the only exception to the gauge designation for shotguns. It has an actual bore diameter of 410/1000ths of an inch, which is approximately equivalent to a 67½ gauge. Each gauge of shotgun shoots only shells of the same gauge.

 

I understood your concern...
Basically, full or half engagement of the lug seat.

In general;
Regular taper are for steel wheels.
Bulge taper are for aluminum wheels which usually have a wider/deeper seating area.
You have a tuner/spline lug nut with regular taper.

Another concern would be how the your new interface might affect clamping force.

Of applied torque;
50% is used to overcome nut-to-wheel friction
40% is used to overcome thread friction
10% is actual clamping force.