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Ask a Plumber.

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Rusty 06 4x4, Dec 27, 2011.

  1. Dec 29, 2011 at 9:50 AM
    #181
    Steezyskis

    Steezyskis I ski I work I'm rad

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    Most of the time by the time I get there(30 or so) I can barley push on the flush arm to let water fill the bowl just a half an inch before it overflows and the pressure of the water pushes the clog down. :D If not when I snake it, it will.
     
  2. Dec 29, 2011 at 11:32 AM
    #182
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    yeah that sometimes happens to me as well
     
  3. Dec 29, 2011 at 3:52 PM
    #183
    tacundra

    tacundra Well-Known Member

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    I am about to buy a 2200 sqft home with an easily accesible crawl space. 2 baths, 1 kitchen and 1 mudroom. Gonna gut and rebuild.

    what is a rough estimate of running new pipe on the whole gig? bout $6000?
     
  4. Dec 29, 2011 at 4:15 PM
    #184
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Informal entry
     
  5. Dec 29, 2011 at 6:01 PM
    #185
    Steezyskis

    Steezyskis I ski I work I'm rad

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    Pipe as in water lines, waste lines? Both? Replaced how extencivly? Every pipe going to each shower, faucet, water heater, toilet, ect.
     
  6. Dec 29, 2011 at 6:19 PM
    #186
    05RedTaco

    05RedTaco Nom Nom Nom

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    Tony
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    Gotta keep in mind that copper is hella expensive... About $12-$18 for 10 feet of copper! Thats I believe for 1/2" copper 3/4" is even more :eek: So you are looking for a lot just in materials...

    It is super hard to give accurate estimate over the internet. I would have to know how many feet of copper I would need, size of copper, how many joints would need to be soldered, etc...

    Honestly copper is super easy to solder. You have to follow few basic things... Rough each end with sand paper or roughing tool, apply flux on both ends to be soldered, heat up with MAP gas or acetylene (I don't use propane it is not as hot as MAP or acetylene) and apply solder all around... The number ONE rule of soldering copper is NO water CAN be in the line. If there is water in the line you wont get a clean connection and it WILL leak! To stop water use JET SWEAT and solder in a ball valve or use compression ball valve...
     
  7. Dec 29, 2011 at 6:30 PM
    #187
    Steezyskis

    Steezyskis I ski I work I'm rad

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    This. ^^^^^ Copper where I am is 3$ a foot. That's what I'm charging at least. Since he's in FL. That's if there using copper. Might be pex or something else. Which we don't use up here. I've seen houses in warmer climates of Cali that are full PVC everywhere. Whole house. So like stated above my quote would probably be off for your location. Maybe a plumber from FL will chime in.
     
  8. Dec 29, 2011 at 6:54 PM
    #188
    tacundra

    tacundra Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys

    In FL, so typically PVC around here.

    All pipes from incoming water line to final waste line.
     
  9. Dec 29, 2011 at 7:16 PM
    #189
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    We talking sched 40 for supplies in the house ?
     
  10. Dec 30, 2011 at 1:35 AM
    #190
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    if your in FLA i would go pex cut your cost by almost half and it is really easy to do
     
  11. Dec 30, 2011 at 2:16 PM
    #191
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    yes that is what he is talking about Im sure any thing less wouldnt pass inspection.
     
  12. Dec 30, 2011 at 2:23 PM
    #192
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    Class 200 is garbage, sched 40 is good.
     
  13. Dec 30, 2011 at 2:55 PM
    #193
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    AGreed
     
  14. Dec 30, 2011 at 3:19 PM
    #194
    OZ-T

    OZ-T You are going backwards

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    Seems goofy to me to try and run that stuff everywhere for supplies .

    Just use pex .

    We have to use sched 80 fittings on anything under slab , is this the same down south ?
     
  15. Dec 31, 2011 at 2:19 AM
    #195
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    yep I agree with that for sure pex is easier and cheaper..
     
  16. Jan 17, 2012 at 9:23 AM
    #196
    SuperTacoma

    SuperTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Can you convert a home toilet to be like a rest stop toilet?
    I mean no tank just the all in one valve setup. If so do you know it runs?
    Thanks
     
  17. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:35 AM
    #197
    SuperTacoma

    SuperTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Tired of dealing with leaking tanks. I was just wondering if a direct flush or some other option was available. I have one toilet that I have used 2 kits on and it still leaks between the bowl and the tank.
     
  18. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:37 AM
    #198
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    they sell one piece toilets can you post a pic of where its leaking maybe I can help you fix it for good. you tank could very well have a small crack too..
     
  19. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:39 AM
    #199
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    you can you just have to buy the bowl which is about 80-100 and the flush valve which runs 100 and you would have to run a 3/4 water line to the toilet a regular residential toilet only has a 1/2 line but it is doable
     
  20. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:54 AM
    #200
    eastcoastcowboy

    eastcoastcowboy just sittin' in the corner, havin' a beer

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    You would be better off to buy a pressure assist toilet.
    It gives you the performance of a flush valve toilet but no additional plumbing necessary. Chances are, you don't have the 1" water line coming in to your bathroom that is necessary to operate a toilet flush valve.
     

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