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Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Rusty 06 4x4, Dec 27, 2011.

  1. Dec 30, 2011 at 1:35 AM
    #201
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    if your in FLA i would go pex cut your cost by almost half and it is really easy to do
     
  2. Dec 30, 2011 at 2:16 PM
    #202
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    yes that is what he is talking about Im sure any thing less wouldnt pass inspection.
     
  3. Dec 30, 2011 at 2:23 PM
    #203
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    Class 200 is garbage, sched 40 is good.
     
  4. Dec 30, 2011 at 2:55 PM
    #204
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    AGreed
     
  5. Dec 30, 2011 at 3:19 PM
    #205
    OZ-T

    OZ-T All of those moments....will be lost.....in time

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    Seems goofy to me to try and run that stuff everywhere for supplies .

    Just use pex .

    We have to use sched 80 fittings on anything under slab , is this the same down south ?
     
  6. Dec 31, 2011 at 2:19 AM
    #206
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    yep I agree with that for sure pex is easier and cheaper..
     
  7. Jan 17, 2012 at 9:23 AM
    #207
    SuperTacoma

    SuperTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Can you convert a home toilet to be like a rest stop toilet?
    I mean no tank just the all in one valve setup. If so do you know it runs?
    Thanks
     
  8. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:35 AM
    #208
    SuperTacoma

    SuperTacoma Well-Known Member

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    Tired of dealing with leaking tanks. I was just wondering if a direct flush or some other option was available. I have one toilet that I have used 2 kits on and it still leaks between the bowl and the tank.
     
  9. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:37 AM
    #209
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    they sell one piece toilets can you post a pic of where its leaking maybe I can help you fix it for good. you tank could very well have a small crack too..
     
  10. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:39 AM
    #210
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    you can you just have to buy the bowl which is about 80-100 and the flush valve which runs 100 and you would have to run a 3/4 water line to the toilet a regular residential toilet only has a 1/2 line but it is doable
     
  11. Jan 18, 2012 at 4:54 AM
    #211
    eastcoastcowboy

    eastcoastcowboy just sittin' in the corner, havin' a beer

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    You would be better off to buy a pressure assist toilet.
    It gives you the performance of a flush valve toilet but no additional plumbing necessary. Chances are, you don't have the 1" water line coming in to your bathroom that is necessary to operate a toilet flush valve.
     
  12. Jan 18, 2012 at 8:37 AM
    #212
    SuperTacoma

    SuperTacoma Well-Known Member

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    I don't have a picture but it seems to be around the where the flapper piece secures to the tank. I have tried tightening and I have tried two repair kits and they both leaked. If there is a crack I don't see it. I looking into replacing the tank but it looks like I would have to order it and could take a little while. I am going out to Lowes at lunch to take a look.
    Thanks
     
  13. Jan 18, 2012 at 12:53 PM
    #213
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    pm'd
     
  14. Jan 18, 2012 at 10:02 PM
    #214
    ToyComa92

    ToyComa92 Write your love, Then your anger.

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    Heated katzskin leather, Black TRD sport wheels, Bilstein 5100s, Toytec 2" Springs, Deaver 2" AAL, Pioneer AVH4400BH, Ultragauge, Weathertechs front/rear,
    I got a question for ya!

    So at my grandparents house, They have a basement and it has a spare room with a full bathroom in it, Mind you we have a water heater, Water softener and we run on a well, Not a main line like the city.

    Anyways, The sink and shower seem to have really weird piping because the shower will get really clogged up and the sink will too, And as soon as i let some of that drano sit in either the shower or the sink they both end up unclogging?! and a week or two later it clogs right back up! Not sure what to do...Seems like if i turn the sink on while the shower is running then it doesn't clog up in the shower as fast and vice versa.
     
  15. Jan 19, 2012 at 4:38 AM
    #215
    Rusty 06 4x4

    Rusty 06 4x4 [OP] NBHNC

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    do you know what kind of piping the drain work is.. the well water shouldn't have anything to do with the drains clogging up.. DO NOT use draino in the pipes as it is not good at all for them..if you get a chance to take a pic or two it may help me steer you in the right direction.
     
  16. Feb 27, 2012 at 10:39 PM
    #216
    neontrail

    neontrail ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈

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    De-badged, Tint 20%, Blue 48 LED dome-light, .......
    What costs am I looking at to install a 20# 15GPM Grease trap? How do I know what size I need? Found a new trap for around $150

    thanks
     
  17. Feb 28, 2012 at 5:05 AM
    #217
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing BIG DADDY

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    F.U> GUYZ
    broken mods
    recomend doing a leak test on your plumbing system....
    check all your vents......
    and it might be contaminated ground "earth" from the collapse
     
  18. Feb 28, 2012 at 8:28 AM
    #218
    neontrail

    neontrail ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈ ✈

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    bump
     
  19. Mar 12, 2012 at 12:36 PM
    #219
    Geode

    Geode Well-Known Member

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    I have a question, just thought of this thread....Nice!

    Anyway, I have a 3/4" main line coming into my house. My water meter is a 5/8" unit. Each side of the meter is attached via a 1/2" npt fitting.

    Seems this would reduce my flow some? I'm asking because I'll be re piping my entire house in the near future. Currently all my piping is 1/2" galvanized (hence the 1/2" off the meter).

    And when someone flushes the toilet while in the shower, well you know how that goes.

    I'm thinking the 1/2" fittings on my 5/8" meter should be changed to 3/4"?

    Then I'll run a 3/4" main line inside with 1/2" drops to each fixture?

    Thanks
     
  20. Mar 12, 2012 at 1:02 PM
    #220
    acdronin

    acdronin Well-Known Member

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    So it is 1/2 inch on both the street side of the meter and on the house side? The thing I would look at is the angle stop valve on the street side of the meter, if that is 5/8, you are good, if not, maybe you can get the water folks to swap a 5/8 in there for you. Water districts usually don't like customers messing with their meters, so if the angle stop is 5/8, you could probably pull the meter on a Saturday morning and swap the fittings and no one should be the wiser. If you have the district swap them, they will charge you $$$$ to do it.
     
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