Ask a Plumber.

Thanks for the info. Sounds like a great way to back fill.

 

Sink is higher up than the camode is

 

I'll stick with copper supply and sch-40 PVC waste pipe.

it's what is in my new home I'm currently building.

btw...slip joint thin wall waste/drain pipe is for under-sink application ONLY. recently had a "professional" licensed plumber try to use slip joint pipe for my tub drains...

it was removed and glue up PVC replaced that mess. maybe I should replace the plumber as well.

 

Well I do have issues with the angle my main is coming. I'm pondering attaching a short segment (6") of 3/4" bendable copper after my shutoff valve to allow for straightening out the angle prior to going to the meter. but I'm wondering how reliable this bendable tubing will be, and I'll have to get lucky to find someplace to sell me just a few feet. What are you're thoughts on this?

Also I'll be picking up some solder and flux, what brands do you like? I see Oatey and Harvey brands seem popular...
Thanks

 

95/5 solder
and 3/4' type k copper is the same tubing they would use in a new water main into your house

 

Never seen Harvey, used Oatey for years. the bendable i see the water district guys use, I've seen them sweat some onto and old pipe and pull the whole thing under part of the street and sidewalk with a back hoe so i imagine it's pretty tough. You might find when you replace the line that you can rectify that angle on the way to the basement wall, 25' of 3/4 copper is gonna be able to flex some, you might be able to fix the angle and bury it that way to hold it in place

 

Take the top off and check to see if the lever/chain pulls the flapper all the way up if it's an older toilet.

 

What brand/year/GPF(1.6?) is it?

 

hey whats your best reccomendation for garbage disposal? my old sears one shit the bed, so i bought a waste king 8000 1hp, whats your reccomendation?

 

K, you say it doesn't drain all the way before it starts to fill back up? There is usually a way to adjust the float so more of the tank emptys out first

 

If there is any slack in the chain when the handle isn't being pulled, take up that slack

 

x2 that's all we install. They have 1/4, 1/3, 1/2 horse power, stainless steel to just depends on how much you wanna spend.

 

Is there any slack?

 

When you flush hold the lever down for and extra 3 seconds. Cheap and easy fix.

 

Oh ok, let the tank fill and reach in and pull the line/flapper thing open by hand, usually the flapper has to come up so far for say a second, thenthe flow of water keeps the flapper open, maybe disconnet it from the handle and try that, it may be that the stiff thingy is too short to bring the flapper up high enough to get the water going and or pushing it back down too soon when you let go of the handle, you could try replacing that stiff thingy with a chain and see if that works

 

Rigid enough that it could be holding the handle down (chain side, up)? Should be some way to shorten it.

 

Thanks, I need to bend a short section of copper pipe for alignment reasons, about 10 degrees. I would prefer the soft copper, type L or K but doubtful I can find a few feet locally. I'm thinking that for such a small bend heating up some rigid prior to bending could work, but I've never tried it and copper is expensive.....What might you suggest?

 

I'm not sure I ever asked, if you were in my situation what would you do?
Would you even mess with the galvanized main, or would you go ahead and have it replaced prior to updating the internal plumbing? That galvanized is awfully old..

Thanks

 

If it was my house, I would go ahead and dig up and replace the galvi main, i don't know how old the house is but galvi has a definite lifespan. And in replacing the main, I would look to solve the angle problem where the pipe comes through the wall so I don't have to try to track down copper flex, nor do I have to do swing joints to rectify the angle. With 25' of 3/4, you are gonna have some play and the ability (hopefully), to set the pipe to a perfect flat angle by the time it goes through the wall.
I'd stick my ball valve right above that first elbow and vertically mount the meter (I fail to understand why the orientation of the meter would have any effect on how it runs). This also solves and dialect issues once and for all, then I would re-plumb the house.
Yeah copper ain't cheap, but if you plan to hold onto that house, you will never have to worry about it corroding-ever.
The main reason I would rip out the galvi is that it has been my experience in trying to repair galvi, once you start screwing with it (trying to get old fittings off in the basement), it tends to start to fail further up the line eventually, it would make me sleep better knowing all the galvi is gone.

 

Thanks, I had a restless night worrying about messing with the galvanized and associated issues. I canceled having my water shut off this morning
I'll contact the city plumbing inspector this afternoon to get things rolling.

Hopefully the inspector will let me do the work myself.
I plan to use 3/4" rigid type K copper. I'll have about 30 feet to go, should I look for a 20' and 10' length of copper? Or just sweat 3 10' pieces? I'm guessing the fewer the joints the better. But the 20' length may be a bit long for my access cab.

The water company said I'll find either 3/4" copper or galvanized at the curb stop. If I find galvanized I'll need a good quality compression fitting.

Incidentally, I put together a nice custom fitting to straighten out the pipe. 3/4" soft copper with threaded couplers on each end. Glad I wont be needed it...lol Maybe I'll post a picture later...

I greatly appreciate your input.