Ask a Plumber.

Found this on HD, got good reviews from 3 users:
Bosch 12-Volt Max Lithium Ion Optical Scope Kit
Model # PS90-1A Internet # 202716948


$191.00 /EA-Each

 

Welcome. Let us know.

 

If you're cutting a big hole,look to see if its a strap holding the pipe where ticking is coming from. Insulate the pipe and strap over insulation.

 

Got it. Found a $8 stethoscope at Walgreens...I am going to use it to narrow down the location.......actually can't wait to do this fix as the ticking is making me a mental case.

 

I guess I'm a mental case with the hissing I hear all the time

 

Well after getting my Furnace fixed, thank to everyone that helped with it! I have another weird one. I have a wall furnace(natural gas)with no blower. I believe I have a thermostat issue, when I turn up the heat I can hear the thermostat click which usually fires up the furnace but now nothing happens, I jumped the wires which I know is not a good idea but it did fire up the furnace. I replaced the thermostat with a new one but it's doing the same thing, any ideas what would make this happen?

 

I hope another plumber with more experience chimes in to help. I haven't worked on a wall furnace in ages. But I'm usually better in front of the problem,hands on.

 

I've added a few more pictures recently. Making some progress.
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/garage-workshop/242619-geodes-plumbing-build.html

 

A little advice to anyone attempting to do their own plumbing. I have to do a repipe at a house today . The customer is a retired electrician. He remodeled his bathroom 20 years ago and lowered his copper manifolds in the slab. He has a slab leak in that bathroom.so now I have to bring new hot line overhead and a drop to each fixture and another shower since it was getting hot from manifold in slab.

Ugh.

 

Was the copper for a radiant heat system I'm guessing?

 

No,we don't have that much need for it down here. He didn't know what he was doing.

It was all the domestic hot to 2 lavatories and 2 showers. But he only had one slab leak,but since he had all the manifolds in concrete,all had to be replaced.

 

I can only imagine the weird things you see. My 100 year old house sure has had its share of hacked jobs. Slowly I'm getting it straightened out, or so I think

 

I have a Symmons Temptrol handle in my shower. It has begun leaking out inside of the wall. I took it apart and replaced all the washers with a kit (twice) but it still is leaking. I'm thinking the whole control unit needs to be replaced, but can't figure out how that can be done through the small access hole behind the trim.

Any advice? I've been trying to get a plumber to even answer the phone for about a month now (southern VT area)

 

what's behind that wall? Often times your shower valve will back up to a closet or something where you can cut a large hole in the drywall to replace the valve and then patch your hole afterwards. Pretty much the only way to do it shy of pulling tiles and doing it from the front. (more repair that way)

 

Your typical thermostat is nothing more than an automatic switch triggered by temperature.
If jumping the wires to the furnace caused it to turn on, then a working, properly wired thermostat should do the same.
Can you disconnect the wires from the thermostat and check for continuity between the two terminals you are connecting to when the thermostat is calling for heat?

 

The outdoors is behind the shower valve. It is a stand up shower with plastic walls and a 'glass' door. I'm thinking either pull the whole stall out or cut a bigger hole in the shower plastic wall and then figure out how to patch that back up. Neither option sounds fun.

 

A wall furnace produces it's own, small amount of power measured in millivolts. Since we are only dealing with about half a volt of DC power, any small amount of resistance in the wiring or connections will produce a problem. This means no splices with wire nuts, if the wiring is spliced it has to be soldered. It also means you have to use a thermostat that is designed to switch millivolts, they will have lower contact resistance. A forced air unit will have a 24VAC power supply and is much more forgiving of crappy connections and thermostat contacts.

Also check the pilot flame to make sure the pilot generator (thing with the wires coming out of it that's right next to the pilot) is fully surrounded by flame. The pilot may be dirty, clogged, or out of adjustment. The pilot generator may be weak. A healthy pilot generator puts out around 400-500 mV measured with a standard DC voltmeter. This is measured with no load (thermostat off). It will drop when the furnace is heating.

Me thinks you have the wrong type of thermostat, or a weak pilot generator.

 

My dishwasher gets the worst smell after about 3 days. I have tried everything. I even rinse the plates before I put them in cause I thought maybe it was food that was causing the smell. We also recently had the kitchen re-done and ran a new supply line cause the kitchen guy though maybe the way the supply line was routed was causing it. Still getting the smell.

Any ideas?

 

Where does it drain to? Where its connected? Is there an anti syphon loop?

 

It drains to the sink drain which is right next to it. When he ran the new lines for the dishwasher, it did drape it (not sure if that's the right word) to create something like a P-trap for the gases.