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Ask a Plumber.

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Rusty 06 4x4, Dec 27, 2011.

  1. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:44 PM
    #601
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic Broke ass

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    I'm a licensed plbr also. I'd trust pex or wursbo, both of which I have in my house and have installed in both commercial and resi apps.
    Wursbo better of the he 3.
     
  2. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:46 PM
    #602
    1BlkT

    1BlkT Mod'n on a Budget

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    Uponor Wirsbo

    Less joints and 25 year warranty

    Seen way to many crimp joints leak on the other styles of pex.

    I do purchasing for plumbing company here in Southern California and we run about 100-120 guys from tract homes to apartment repipes and not only do we recommend it for the cost but a lot of the builders now spec it.


    (We have issues with copper pinholes though due to cloramines in the water)
     
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  3. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:50 PM
    #603
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    When you run the flexible pipe, do you make continuous home runs to an accessible manifold to avoid joints in the walls?
    That's one way I'd be more comfortable with it... if the only joints were at a manifold or the fixture stops, nothing hidden IOW
     
  4. Jan 17, 2015 at 5:52 PM
    #604
    Hardscrabble

    Hardscrabble Well-Known Member

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    Thank you.

    It seems that PEX is the direct replacement for the polybutelene. The connections are very similar. I think PEX uses brass instead of copper.

    It would be terrible to replace bad pipe with a product that has bad fittings.
     
  5. Jan 19, 2015 at 10:42 AM
    #605
    Hardscrabble

    Hardscrabble Well-Known Member

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    I like the usage of a manifold concept. Straight runs of individual cold & hot supply lines from manifold to faucet/fixture. I agree that seems better than supply line with T offs for separate fixtures. Less fittings/joints.

    The M-I-L's house is single story with a crawl space, hot water heater in utility/work room behind garage. Decent access throughout.
     
  6. Jan 19, 2015 at 12:04 PM
    #606
    JLink

    JLink Well-Known Member

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    Hey guys.

    I'm in the planning stages of remodeling my bathroom.

    I have 1/2" copper pipe from the shutoff in the basement to everything in the house, so I'm planning on replacing it all with 3/4" copper pipe. Should get better water pressure that way right?

    Also I want to install a rain shower head in the ceiling above the bath tub, while still having a normal style shower head with a hose for washing the shower walls or washing the dog, etc. anyone have any experience in this?

    After doing a morning of research it seems the best way is to have 2 separate control valves (if that's the proper wording) each run to the main 3/4" pipes so the water pressure is pretty well maintained between the 2 shower heads when used together, and the temp is adjustable individually.

    Sound about right?

    Thanks.
     
  7. Jan 26, 2015 at 6:13 PM
    #607
    Forty

    Forty Member

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    Should I drain my pressure tank before I pump air into it?
     
  8. Jan 26, 2015 at 6:17 PM
    #608
    moto932

    moto932 What's the matter, Colonel Sandurz? CHICKEN?

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    nope, don't have to
     
  9. Jan 26, 2015 at 6:22 PM
    #609
    File IFR

    File IFR "... Intercepting The Localizer"

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    I'm not a plumber, so I can't answer. I do know that a rain head will require more volume, so a 3/4" or larger supply is correct. You are confusing volume with pressure though.

    Don't expect all the 1/2" supplies to the bathroom to fill your need for volume if you solder in 3/4" pipe(s) to the shower valve and head.


    **edit** I see you're replacing all of it with 3/4". cool.
     
    Last edited: Jan 26, 2015
  10. Feb 14, 2017 at 7:04 PM
    #610
    TuffRuffDangerous

    TuffRuffDangerous Well-Known Member

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    I'm trying to figure out how to fix a dripping tub spigot. From what I Yahooed it appears to me that I have to change out the single lever shower cartridge. I kinda have a general idea of what to do but I would really appreciate any input from the pros.

    The steps I plan to take:

    Shut off main water valve. I'm guessing it's outside next to the meter. Mine looks like this pic.
    [​IMG]

    Assemble tools. Screwdriver, pipe wrench, pliers. Is there a special tool needed to pull out the cartridge or does it depend on the brand? Some YouTube DIY videos show a special tool while other videos don't.

    Remove cartridge.
    IMG_4068.jpg
    I'm guessing I would have to unscrew the bezel, pry away at the caulking, then remove cartridge. Will the cartridge at least have the brand name on it?

    I'll plan further once I remove the cartridge but as of right now am I missing any other steps?

    Thanks in advance.
     
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  11. Feb 15, 2017 at 2:57 AM
    #611
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic Broke ass

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    Steps up to removal of trim sound spot on. And good job might I add.
    I can't tell from pic what brand it is. Look for a name on trim that you're removing .
    If still uncertain take plenty of pics before attempting to remove cartridge if uncertain how to remove. Good to be able to have water until you are certain.
    Then you might be able to match it up with something at a box store or a plumbing supply.
     
  12. Feb 15, 2017 at 3:13 AM
    #612
    mbmack1

    mbmack1 That F'n guy

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    Pretty much what @Kolunatic said. Once you pull the cartridge you're stuck with no water until you reinstall something, be it the old one or a new one. That being said, when you pull the trim plate, the sleeve that surrounds the cartridge housing should come with it. If it doesn't, pull it off. You should then see a nut that holds the cartridge into the valve. Remove that nut. Grab cartridge with channel locks on the brass piece the handle attaches to and pull straight out. If it doesn't come easily you may need to wiggle it side to side as you pull. The videos you see where they're using a puller is for a Moen. Yours is not a moen. I don't recognize it either. You'll probably need to pull it and take it to a supply house for identification. Good luck!

    Edit: also make sure to buy some faucet grease and apply it to the new cartridge before you install it. Faucet grease specifically, nothing else.
     
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  13. Feb 15, 2017 at 3:22 AM
    #613
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic Broke ass

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    What @mbmack1 said.
    It's weird to see different parts of country have different faucets and valves. I've seen different neighborhoods have mixet brand and others just moen etc.
    Good luck and be careful.
     
  14. Feb 15, 2017 at 3:26 AM
    #614
    mbmack1

    mbmack1 That F'n guy

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    I agree. I'm in arizona and Price Pfister is the most common 3 handle valve in the older houses. We have a guy from Chicago who works for us and he says it's all sayco back east.
     
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  15. Feb 15, 2017 at 3:47 AM
    #615
    Kolunatic

    Kolunatic Broke ass

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    I blame it on salesman.:censored:
     
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  16. Feb 15, 2017 at 4:00 AM
    #616
    bajatacoguy

    bajatacoguy Well-Known Member

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  17. Mar 14, 2017 at 2:48 PM
    #617
    holyfield19

    holyfield19 GO TIGERS!

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    Busted CV boots and lots of squeaks.
    How do I attach this:
    image.jpg

    Which is the metal pipe for the overflow for a claw foot tub to the PVC for the P trap?
     
  18. Mar 14, 2017 at 4:02 PM
    #618
    holyfield19

    holyfield19 GO TIGERS!

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    Busted CV boots and lots of squeaks.
    :facepalm:

    Trap adapter

    image.jpg
     
  19. Mar 14, 2017 at 4:04 PM
    #619
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 Not A Well-Known Member

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    Im a licensed plumber also! :D
     
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  20. Mar 14, 2017 at 4:41 PM
    #620
    teamhypoxia

    teamhypoxia MichelinMan

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    Can you use bushings on drain pipes in your jurisdiction?
     

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