Ask a Plumber.

I just got a handicap round American standard at Lowe’s. The plumbing supply house doesn’t carry in stock. I built a small water closet in loft of my barn so it fits good.
I’m still old school and haven’t tried the rubber rings yet

 

New flooring would obviously require removal of the toilet unless you thought you could cut it nicely around the base (I couldn't) but for painting the wall, you could always remove the tank assuming it's a two piece.
I haven't used the rubber gaskets either.

 

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Hey guys. I am building a new one story home in Florida with a nice size garage for my toys and storage area above. As this is my first opportunity at using natural gas vs. electric for appliances I have a question. My house plans call for the water heater to be in the garage and subject to all kinds of fumes and flamable liquids from my toys and gas cans. My wife is concerned that I might blow us up with having the gas water heater in the garage. As best I can tell code requires the unit be 18" above the floor and vented through the roof.

Is there a safety issue I should worry about? I want a tanked unit and the only other options are tankless on the outside (expensive) and/or back to an electric one.

 

Just have it take up space in corner of garage with outside access and door vents. Builder should know how to do it. The inside of garage walls will be all sealed up.

 

No prob.. building inspector will see that it's done right, or you won't be allowed to move in.

 

Average cost to replace a 50 gal gas water heater along with stand that it sits on in the garage? I got a couple and they came out to around $1200.

 

Dredging this thread up from the depths.
I am having issues with high water pressure due to thermal expansion from the hot water tank and I cant seem to get it figured out. I have a new expansion tank inline before the hot water heater.
Here's what I did:

• When we bought the house, the original 5 gallon expansion tank had a ruptured bladder and was inop. I replaced it.
• I measured the water pressure with a spigot gauge (65psi)
• I added air to the thermal expansion tank to 65psi

Over the course of maybe 5-8 hours, if I don't use any water in the house, the pressure will climb to almost 90psi.
Did I measure the water pressure wrong? Should I leave it on and measure the highest reading over time, accounting for expansion (in this case, 90psi) then set the expansion tank to 90psi? Or should I crack a faucet to remove the hot water pressure from the line, then measure the pressure coming in (in this case, 65psi)? This is where I'm lost. Any advice would be most appreciated!

 

Yeah thats odd and 90psi is a bit much. Code is 80psi max. Are you taking your reading after using a substantial amount of hot water then letting the water heater get back up to temperature?

If not, i would maybe suspect a faulty pressure reducing valve(PRV) slowly bleeding pressure though?

 

It's funny you say that! My father in law said yesterday to check the PRV. It's an old unit from '93 and could have scale in it. I am replacing it and I'll report back.
Thanks!

 

If I draw up a floor plan for a basement bathroom , would one of you plumber guys pick it apart for me ?

installing a 3 piece bathroom .
Before I start busting concrete , it would be great if i could get some sound advice on venting and proper drainage .
Building a motherinlaw suite downstairs . Wife is ready to kill me so maybe the suite will be for me .
Haha

 

Changing the PRV valve solved the problem. Thanks for the help!

 

Sure. Draw it up and post it.

No problem! Glad you got it squared away.

 

Just bought a house and this thingy is leaky (pressure regulator?). Is this something I can fix myself fairly easy? Tips?

 

When our house was plumbed in 1998, they hooked up the refrigerator line to HOT water. Up until recently, we've only had an ice maker and haven't had any problems. We got a new refrigerator with water output, and we'll start pulling hot water if we fill up a few glasses from it.

The T where the refrigerator hooks up is in the wall, but I found the kitchen water supplies in the attic. My thought was to cut and switch the hot and cold in the attic, then switch the sink and dishwasher in the kitchen so they are correct.

Thoughts?

 

can you solder?
Need to just replace it.

 

any way to feed the refrigerator from under the kitchen sink? That's always my preferred method so that it can be turned off without having to remove the fridge.

 

Just asked this in the home improvement thread, then I discovered the existence of this thread.

I'm going to be helping my brother finish a bathroom/laundry room. It has a roughed in shower drain set in the concrete floor. He doesn't want to put in a shower. What would be a good way to make it disappear?

 

Unfortunately no. The fridge T's into the sink supply somewhere in the wall and I am not excited about cutting into the walls without knowing exactly where that is.

 

Every time I flush the toilet the lights go dim. WTH