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Ask an IRRIGATOR (Sprinklers or Drip Irrigation)

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by David K, Jul 31, 2014.

  1. Jul 31, 2014 at 6:46 PM
    #1
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I saw the thread 'Ask a Plumber' and since we also need water help outdoors where it doesn't rain consistently, I thought I would see if anyone here has irrigation related questions. The majority of my work is landscape irrigation and not agricultural or golf course in nature. I do work on fruit tree groves sometimes. I specialize in making old systems better by converting to low flow rotating sprinklers and drip irrigation. Also, I install smart (weather based) controllers that change the watering based on weather at your property.

    Back in the 90's, I co-authored an irrigation design book to help solve some of the mysteries of how water works in pipes, valves and fittings so the installer will know how much water is available and what the pressure will be.

    So, any sprinkler or drip design/ repair/ adjust/ upgrade questions, please ask away!

    Here's that book with a couple of the tables from inside (sorry, it is now out-of-print):

    scan0003_b17c1e60e5149f73b843b5cb25cb90222d921736.jpg

    scan0004_154121d359de77c9ed9207470b4cbd138d926e5b.jpg

    scan0005_9e1f51ecbadd5b7985b134491819ee19572adee7.jpg

    scan0006_000afed84b078ec9d6d6f8c27b16d8a810dd1122.jpg
     
  2. Jul 31, 2014 at 6:54 PM
    #2
    ImpulseRed008

    ImpulseRed008 Gone But Not Forgotten

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    :woot: for offering assistance

    don't need help now, but I'll keep you in mind :thumbsup:
     
  3. Aug 1, 2014 at 2:23 AM
    #3
    coffeesnob

    coffeesnob Well-Known Member

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    I may need some help. I haven't turned mine on for 2 years. If I ever turn it back on there may be trouble.
     
  4. Aug 1, 2014 at 8:43 AM
    #4
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    For sure, like using 4WD you should operate it regularly and fix breaks when you do a walk through of the system.

    In planning an irrigation system, note your water supply source (meter size, pipe type and size, or well delivery limits). Then measure the area you want to irrigate (length x width) for ground cover, or distance for rows of shrubs or trees. Graph paper helps to draw the areas to scale.
     
  5. Aug 1, 2014 at 9:02 AM
    #5
    CRU

    CRU Well-Known Member

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    Hell yeah!! I got a question for ya. The system in my house was installed professionally by the previous owner. So I don't know much about it. For instance, like where any of the valves are. Can't find one to save my life. I'm guessing they've been swallowed by the earth.

    But my question is about the well pump. About a year+ ago, it was raining a lot so I turned off the system to save from drowning the yard. About 6 months later I went to turn it back on. I have a shut off valve for the well pump that sticks out of the ground. One of the pipes leading to the valve had a leak and was spraying water. I quickly turned off the system and once the pressure died down I checked the leak. It was a small hole most likely cause by a weed eater. I tried the system again and got nothing. No water, no pressure, zilch. I haven't touched the system since. Any ideas what's up with the pump?
     
  6. Aug 1, 2014 at 5:55 PM
    #6
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I am going to suggest you call your local well/pump supplier. I am going to guess it needs to be primed? I work 99% on city provided water with pressure from 50-150 psi. The few times I connect to a well supplied line, there were no problems. Just make sure the system flow does not exceed the well pump delivery rate (GPM).
     
  7. Aug 12, 2014 at 9:13 AM
    #7
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    More questions please... sprinklers, drip irrigation, controllers, valves... ???
     
  8. Oct 28, 2014 at 10:42 AM
    #8
    Dcpsychobilly

    Dcpsychobilly Well-Known Member

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    YES YES QUESTION here lol
    I have blown out sprinklers before, they seem pretty straight forward. But my current place is a different setup.

    Usually I hook up the air, manually turn them on and the air flows thru and comes out the sprinkler. In this case it doesn't work?
    Suggestions?

    20141028_112850_zpslcntazl6_d8b95cf15d466e442db7c95f27c026705aff05bb.jpg
     
  9. Oct 28, 2014 at 10:50 AM
    #9
    SSG665

    SSG665 Well-Known Member

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    I have an irrigation question..I have four zones on my home sprinkler system.When the 4th zone stops(valve closes)I am getting a loud bang at the end of my plumbing in the house.This is the master bath at back of the house.Is this referred to water hammer?Does another backflow valve need to be installed in the main supply line from the meter?
     
  10. Oct 28, 2014 at 11:46 AM
    #10
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Hello!

    The bang/ thump/ knock is indeed the result of a water hammer condition. It is caused by water moving too fast in the pipe so that when the valve shuts off, the speeding water 'bounces back' in the form of a shock wave. That shock wave is what is causing the bang.

    Water hammer happens when too many sprinklers are on a line (valve+pipe) with high water pressure.

    What to do, beginning with the easiest:
    a) Try reducing the flow of water at the valve with the flow control dial on top of most valves. Turn on that zone, and turn down the flow control until the sprinkler sprays begin to get reduced, or reduce to where they can do the job intended (if they are throwing too far). Turn the valve on and off and see if that stopped the water hammer.
    b) Reduce the water flow by using lower flow sprinklers, such as MP Rotators that still cover the area that needs watering.
    c) Install a pressure regulator on the irrigation supply line or just that one valve.
    d) Install a water hammer arrester just after the valve. This acts like a shock absorber in the pipe. It may be easier and cheaper than b or c above, but it may be wiser to run lower flow sprinklers and/or lower pressure on your system... for long life and water savings.

    A backflow preventer does nothing for water hammer, other than reduces the water pressure a small amount. It does prevent your irrigation or other water from going backwards into the city water line if the city water pressure drops, like when a fire truck hooks up nearby or a water main breaks.
     
  11. Oct 28, 2014 at 11:50 AM
    #11
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    I don't see a shreader (tire air) valve where you can add air to the water lines in that photo showing three valves. If you are inn freezing climates, I would think the air valve would be used each year. Perhaps ask the previous owner where they are... Maybe scratch the dirt as you go down from that valve box and look for another, smaller box where the air can be added.
     
  12. Oct 28, 2014 at 12:00 PM
    #12
    Dcpsychobilly

    Dcpsychobilly Well-Known Member

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    My bad I should of posted a picture showing everything.
    I got it ready to be hooked to air. When air is applied I can't get it out to the sprinkler. On other systems I have just manually turn the sprinkler valve ON and it flows thru. This setup doesn't have that valve I'm use to seeing.

    See air nipple thing.... :D

    20141028_125444_zpskouzvgcw_113b70630b99f90ca3fe75614e7afddee9eb7b52.jpg


    Heres the whole thing


    20141028_125512_zpsqkwyfv1z_fc44105ca25ced46f6c83db160b0da6e5d98f2f5.jpg
     
  13. Oct 28, 2014 at 12:02 PM
    #13
    Dcpsychobilly

    Dcpsychobilly Well-Known Member

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    What I have seen before is a valve on top that turns left/right on/off to manually turn on a zone. This place has two bigger newer looking ones (left) and two older ones on the right.
     
  14. Oct 28, 2014 at 12:07 PM
    #14
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Is the tiny screwdriver valve on the side in the open position (inline with the flow)? I can't tell, but the one below is clearly closed (sideways) as it should be.

    I am in San Diego coastal California, so we have none of those air blow out set ups, but I am familiar with the concept. If that little test valve is open, then the other issue is your sprinkler valves not opening under the air pressure... and letting the air flow out to the sprinklers.

    If the lines go down hill from the valves, then remove the lowest sprinkler... specially if it has a check valve in it.
     
  15. Oct 28, 2014 at 12:09 PM
    #15
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Turn them on at the controller or loosen the bleed screw on top of the sprinkler valve. Those cheaper 'Home Depot' specials may not have the manual on/off lever below the solenoid... but all valves have the bleed screw for manual operation.
     
  16. Oct 28, 2014 at 12:25 PM
    #16
    Dcpsychobilly

    Dcpsychobilly Well-Known Member

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    Yes it's turned to flow

    20141028_132154_zpsyp1rmphq_437b605ed2d95c569ed3d8c70421b5536e0ca004.jpg


    Is the bleed screwa tiny llittle thing next to the valve?
     
  17. Oct 28, 2014 at 3:48 PM
    #17
    Dcpsychobilly

    Dcpsychobilly Well-Known Member

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    Yea I can't air to flow.... I might start taking stuff off lol
     
  18. Oct 28, 2014 at 5:24 PM
    #18
    David K

    David K [OP] Well-Known Member

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    Yes, the bleed screw is correct. The electric valves must not be open, or the water in the pipe is already frozen!! :O
     
  19. Jan 29, 2023 at 12:19 PM
    #19
    Txexplorer

    Txexplorer Well-Known Member

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    What do average cost look like now days? I’m wanting a system installed on .30 acres in the city with 80 psi water pressure. I’ve gotten two quotes so far and it kinda gave me sticker shock based on what I’ve read online.
     

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