Asking About Vendor Reliability

Looking to purchase a transfer case actuator for my Tacoma and was wondering if any users have any positive or negative experiences with Auto Parts World out of Minnesota ? They are listing a Toyota Brand actuator for just over 600.
GENUINE TOYOTA 4RUNNER TACOMA TUNDRA TRANSFER SHIFT LEVER ACTUATOR 36410-34015 | eBay

Thanks in advance for any helpful replies.

 

Before you spend $650.
Can you tell us how you confirmed the actuator is bad?
It’s not uncommon for people to not know how the system works and blindly throw parts at it.
If you want to confirm the sources of your problem, we can help with that.
Visit the link below, fill out the chart with your reading, and post them for us to look over.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/4wd-system-operation-help-thread.742420/

If you have definitively confirmed it’s the TC actuator, then we might help you locate new one.
I can not say off hand what a new one runs, but I’d be happy to do some searching for you.

 

My TL2 (pin 24 on the 4WD ECU) signal from the actuator remains at 12 volts constantly when switching to H4. TL1 does not change voltage either. I don't hear the motor engaging when the switch is turned to 4H.

There is 12 volts present on pins 1 & 2 of the ECU, that does change polarity when moving the switch from 2H to 4H but no motor sound. It appears to me as if the motor is not working. I have not tried disassembling the motor, but I was thinking that this actuator is original, it's 17 years old and I may be better off replacing rather than trying to fix it. I have checked the 4WD swith and it ohms out as per the factory data.

TL1 -

 

It’s not uncommon that the motor looses contacts inside the actuator.
The contacts aren’t even soldered. They’re “tension” fit.
I don’t think you have anything to loose by pulling the cover off the actuator.

 

I agree, I will remove the cover and take a look. If the inside is clean, I will solder the motor contacts and give it a try. If the motor is dirty or water infiltrated, I would definitely be buying a new unit. I'm still undecided though of reusing this original part unless like I said the old part looks clean. Thanks for your advice.

 

No problem.
I understand stand not wanting to use the old parts if they look “bad”.
I just hate to see you spend all that money if it’s not needed.
There been more than a few guys open theirs up, clean it, and have had success

 

I've been very fortunate with my truck over the years and a few years ago I had the frame replaced by Toyota, and over the years, my Tacoma has had no major parts replacements. Only 170,000 miles so it's hardly broken in, and I want to keep it for as long as it will last. No large expenditures so I don't mind spending the money for an actuator if it needs it.
Have you had any experience with this vendor of any others that may sell Toyota original actuators for less than a dealer ?

 

I have not.
To do the whole assembly you need to drop the transfer case and split it open.
To be honest, my procedure would be.

1. Take apart, clean, and rebuild original if possible
2. Buy a Doorman/aftermarket actuator and use the motor and components
3. Buy OE

I did find a supposedly OEM one on EBay for $470
https://www.ebay.com/itm/3930767331...h8-44kLEUizT-8tizHipEJYfeKoXrG_gaAmqsEALw_wcB

 

$402
https://www.ebay.com/itm/394237141091

 

To TnShooter - I am going to check the motor before buying a new one. As far as Dorman, I've read on these forums where Dorman quality has declined, so I'm not too keen on that brand, I prefer to stick to OE, and I'd would rather buy in the States rather than overseas due to uncertain delivery times and product resolution if anything were to go wrong.

 

I can understand that.
Let us know what you find

 

The actuator can be changed without splitting the transfer case but if you use the method make sure to mark the gear position before removing it and install the new one in the same position or it will be out of time and not operate properly.

 

Yeah, to be clear, I was referring to the whole assembly.
You can’t get the shift rod out or into the transfer case with out opening up the TC.
And I don’t know anyone that would do that. Which means, you’re taking apart the actuator either way.
New and old, which is why I said, “You have nothing to loose” by opening the old one to clean it up.

The new actuator comes with the rod. It’s all together.

 

Thank you guys, I was planning on removing the gear to detach the actuator assembly. It looks to be a rack and pinion setup, so I assume I should have to mark both pieces, the rack side and the pinion gear ?

 

There are no marks that I'm aware of, it has to be timed manually.

 

Dm93 Sorry, I was referring to your post where it said to be sure and mark the gear position.

 

Essentially you want the contacts to be in the same position in relation to the transfer case shift fork or it won't work right.

 

Is there a way to put the new unit into 2H without disassembling it ? I say this, because my truck is stuck in 2H, and it would make it easy to make sure both are in 2H and bolt it on.

 

You could plug it and the detection switches in and turn the key on, it should shift itself just like it would if it was installed. You still have to partially disassemble it to remove it from the shift rod and install it on your transfer case shift rod.
It's not the end of the world if it does get out of time but it may take a few tries to get it back right.

 

Got it, Many Thanks !