Assistance with Add a Leaf install

This is the correct way.
for the size/length, It’s in the correct spot.

 

I had a 1.5” AAL from Toytec that looked like this.
As you can see the overload faces down while the rest are up
The AAL is even a little offset lol. Oops

 

That is the correct orientation, I personally like to run with as long an AAL as I can get, seems better for flexing and spreads the loading at the ends of the AAL . Even so my first AAL set broke in two places on each side, but the ones I used of the 79 Toyota SR5 (3/4T according to the title) while rebuilding the springs on my 85’, had two AAL on each side- both long. They have held up great, so maybe an older non Chinese steel version vs the relatively cheap steel Daystar set I first installed on the Taco.

 

This Saturday I plan on reinstalling the leaf spring on the passenger side, then starting on the drivers side.
Any tips on reinstalling??

 

Jay, I can't believe no one has some advice to offer.

 

I’d chime in, but I’m still waiting on my angle grinder and cut off disks to get the old ones out haha

 

Get clamps they’re a life saver and if it’s your first time plenty of good YouTube videos to follow

 

Leaf springs are pretty straightforward, I would get the main eye (front) bolt in first, then get the center pin lined up on the axle perch and then do the rear shackle bolt. The shackles move back/forth so they're easier to line up, if you do the main eye bolt last then you're going to be fighting with the springs to get them lined up perfectly for the bolt to go through. It can be done but it's a lot more work, so do that part first.

If things don't line up for whatever reason, use a big pry bar to try and leverage things into place. If all else fails, a ratchet strap around the axle to the frame will help move it

When I did my Alcans after I got the main eye bolts in, I couldn't get the spring perch on the axle to line up with the center pin bolts on the springs. So I wrapped a ratchet strap around the axle and hooked it to the frame near the main eye and started tightening it, which moved the axle easily in the direction I needed it go

 

Thank you for the detailed info. I’m only doing one side at a time because I read it’s more difficult to get things lined back up with both off. Should I at least listen the other side to help move things around or does it matter?

 

Some pics of some of the items I used the POR-15 on.

 

I've only ever done them one side at a time, but I've recently had someone tell me that it's easier to do them with both off that way you can move the axle more easily if you need to. If one side is all buttoned up the axle is going to be harder to move (ratchet strap makes it doable but probably harder than it needs to be)

 

That makes sense. What I may do is at least losen up the other side.

 

Those por-15’d items look great, a helluva lot better than mine haha.. what was your process on them? Did you grind them down to shiny or anything special?

 

Hey Steven, I appreciate it. I stripped them down to bare metal. I've noticed that the small items always come out the best when using Por-15. Even better when using it on something like the hanger because of the roughness of the metal (underside) and rust.
I know what you mean though, it's difficult to get a smooth finish at times. I've especially noticed this when trying to do a big item like the fuel tank protector. If I were doing it again or doing something like the frame, I'd use a spray gun.

What has worked best for me...

• Directions say to put on light coats, but on long items (again the fuel tank), I've had better luck applying as thick a coat as possible the first go around. When I've applied a light coat and then go back to apply another, that's when I get streaks (no matter foam or brush).
• The rougher an item the better. The more light rust the better.
• I've always had better luck using a foam brush instead of a paint brush.

 

Got the passenger side installed with the Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. Got the drivers side removed...went much smoother. I don’t know why, but on my Tacoma EVERYTHING is more difficult on the passenger side. Always more corrosion and rust on the suspension parts on the passenger side.
Didn’t have many issues getting everything lined up. Like many stated, you have to make several adjustments to the floor jack under the differential to get the eye bolts lined up.
An added bonus to this install is that the gap I had between the cab and bed looks correct now. Before, the cab/bed was closer on the passenger side. You could barely get a car wash mitt in between the gap. Of course this created wider gap on the drivers side.