Atl-atl's TRD Off Road Access Cab documentation thread

Time for an update. Got home from our 6 month trip and decided to do some maintenance and mods on the Tacoma. Oil change, Morimoto headlight issue fix, RCI skid plate install etc. Thinking about making a separate post for my RCI transmission skid install since I integrated it into my JDFab subframe. I wasn't able to find another writeup so I decided to wing it and it turned out great. I still need to install my ECGS diffs and Solo LCAs but Im also itching to start the LS swap on my Blazer so thats probably going to take up the garage for a while.

So Ive got Morimoto XB LEDs and also a Switchpros 9100. Ive been unable to find a fuse that works correctly for the DRLs on the Morimotos because the 9100 uses the same "INJ" fuse that people suggest for the Morimotos and it wound up killing one of my batteries while the truck was parked for the last couple months. I had the DRL lead plugged into the Morimoto suggested fuse and it was one of the EFI ones that cycles when the truck is off and the rest is history. My Genesis dual setup saved 1 of the 2 batteries by keeping them completely isolated which is cool. Just hit the boost button and the truck started right up. Also, Batteries Plus is warranting the dead battery which is rad.Its a Duracell Ultra Platinum AGM. I spent an hour testing every single fuse in the underhood fuse/relay box and wound up swapping one of the 9100 taps to an "ECU" fuse and the Morimoto tap to the "INJ" fuse. So far after 2 days its good and I havent noticed the ghost light problem again so...


So I decided to change the oil which is fun when you have the JDFab subframe, a Fumoto valve and 37s. Just slide a Home Depot bucket under and open the valve.


On to the RCI stuff. Ive had their trans/t-case/gas tank skids sitting in boxes for the last year just waiting to install so I finally got around to it. The gas tank was first because its so simple. Honestly its kind of scary that it doesnt have "support" and just hangs off the bottom of the tank. I havent heard of any problems with these and its more protection than Ive ever had so it cant be that bad.

 

Now for the JDFab and @RCI-Offroad skid plate integration. It was actually quite straightforward. The RCI skid almost works right out of the box. There are only 3 minor modifications that need to happen. One is trimming the curved wings at the front corners of the skid. This is necessary because of the rear LCA mounts on the JDFab subframe. You can see in the pics below what needed to be removed. I loosely installed the trans skid, while the JDFab skid was installed. Lined it up with the hardware of the RCI skid loose. Its pretty obvious what needs to go.

This is with the JDfab skid fully tightened down and the RCI trans skid supported by a a jack and the rear carriage bolts loosely installed.


Here are my marks. Your method may vary. I used a marking pen for the first cut and then broke out the cutoff wheel. I did not cut "into" the skid plate, the depth of the cut is where the curved piece dies into the flat bottom. Hence the appearance of two cuts but there is no reason to go any farther into the skid plate than the curve.



The bolts that go in the mounting slot are the bolts that are used to align the JDFab subframe when initially installing it. Though the bolts are too short, so you'll need to use two M8 bolts that are ~1/2" longer. I used the two bolts that came out when removing the weird metal "hoop" that goes over the driver side catalytic converter(which is intended to keep the heat shield from rattling on the cat) which you delete when installing the RCI trans skid.

Mocked up, starting to look really good.


When I got to this point I mocked it up with the JDFab skid and the M8 bolt heads were in the way. I forgot to take a picture but its necessary to make holes in the JDFab skid so the M8 bolt heads can recess. Here are my measurements for locating these holes. I went with 1 1/2" front-to-back and 2 5/8" left-to-right, on both sides of the skid. Your measurements may vary. I made the holes 3/4" diameter and it worked perfectly. These measurements might be different depending on the install of your JDFab subframe.



Then I mocked it up again and it was still sitting proud, the bolt heads were not recessing.


The washer on the driver side M8 bolt was hitting the corner of the diff sump plate.


After another mock up it was still sitting proud and I realized the front of the RCI skid was hitting riding on top of the last inch or so of the diff sump plate. I opted to cut the diff sump plate instead of the RCI skid.


Here is the diff sump cut. You could probably cut a little less so there isn't an air slot but whatever.

 

And here is the end result. You can see the M8 bolt heads sitting flush inside their new homes.


There is barely a gap and its probably because my JDFab skid is slightly bent. Its at most 1/16" which I consider good.


Thats a pretty good fit.

 

Finally got my exhaust rerouted and installed the last RCI skid. Pretty flat under there now. Weird how the crossmember for the t-case skid only uses 2 measly bolts to hold it to the vertical insides of the frame and none on the bottom. I get that most impacts will be coming up from underneath but what if you got high centered and had to back up to get unstuck? You could easily rip off the skid. Now I just need to finish my Blazer project so I can install my diffs and LCAs.