ATRAC Not Working

Yesterday I was out wheeling and noticed my ATRAC dash light stopped working. I have a 2010 TRD Off Road and the indicator light has always worked in the past.

I also noticed starting the truck when all the dash lights come on my ATRAC symbol wasn't illuminating. Anybody else ever have this issue? Potential fixes?

Also just to confirm ATRAC button pushed in is ATRAC on, correct?

EDIT: The more I read the more I'm wondering whether or not my ATRAC was working. Anybody know a good way to test/confirm?

Here's a picture of my dash at startup, If I remember correctly when functioning doesn't the ATRAC light briefly illuminate with the rest of the Christmas tree?


EDIT2: Corrected thread title for future reference... ATRAC wasn't working, not just the dash light.

 

Also just checked with my scangauge, no codes.

 

i think there is a transfer case switch that can go bad. Maybe somebody with more knowledge will chime in.

 

Funny enough I tried A Trac in the snow this weekend just for fun (I usually forget about it haha)

Yes, button depressed is 'on'. I just went out and checked, the A-Trac light does not come on when the key is first turned on.

As you probably know, A-Trac is only active in 4Lo and I believe there is an upper speed limit. As to how to physically test it, the system applies the brake to a tire that is spinning, therefore directing torque to the other tire with more grip (front or rear). So you would have to create a scenario like that to test it. When it activates you can hear and feel slight noises, just like an ABS feeling.

 

Just being in 4Lo and having the A-Trac button pushed should turn the light on though I think. Maybe its just a bad indicator in the dash?


See here for more / better info:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/a-trac-trac-auto-lsd-explained-easy-to-understand-i-hope.70551/

 

https://www.fjcruiserforums.com/threads/a-trac-indicator-light-not-working.125837/
@plurpimpin

 

Thank you for checking! This is very helpful to keep me from barking up the wrong tree.

Thanks! I was reading that thread earlier, it sounds like I need to do some reading on transfer case switches. My 4wd Hi and Lo are still working just fine so that should rule out the ADD correct? My problem is only with ATRAC

 

I assume that would be correct if you can still engage 4x4 than yes it would rule out the ADD according to that thread.

 

I know @snowsk8air2 had an issue in the past with the actual dash switch being bad.

 

Do you know if he was able to jump the switch to test it or did he just replace it hoping that'd fix it?

 

I had issues in the past with the switch itself going bad. Best way to test if it is actually working is to create a scenario where it would kick in. I like to find a deep rut or V shaped trail and cross it at an angle really flexing the truck out. Then in 4Lo with the button pressed try to crawl out and see if it kicks in. If you get front wheel spin and it doesn’t kick in, it’s not working.

If you have a friend with the same switch it is easy to swap and check to see if it is the switch. Otherwise I think it’s about a $40 switch.

As far as the transfer case sensor, check the other threads posted for info on how to test them.

Side note, if you have any codes in the ecu ATRAC will not work. You need to have all codes cleared for it to work.

 

I eventually had to replace the switch.

 

Thanks! I'll start with the cab switch since it's easy to get to and check it with the multimeter this evening to see if it's working. If that's good it sounds like the next step is to pull my skid and look at the transfer case switches tomorrow.

I'm curious if it's the dash switch (and crossing my fingers that's it) because my 4lo indicator light works fine when engaged and if it was the 4lo indicator switch on the transfer case I wouldn't expect that light to work. Thinking maybe it is the Dash Switch since my ONLY issue is ATRAC, everything else is working perfectly.

 

Start with that. When you figure out how the switch works with your meter you can try to jump the terminals. I tried with no luck but that was before I knew it wouldn’t work if the truck had codes.

 

Yeah I already checked and no codes. I’ve pulled apart enough dash switches I think I can figure it out.

But I also forgot to mention my locker worked just fine which according to some of the FJ forums locker not working is a symptom of bad transfer case switch... which leads me back to the dash switch.

 

Keep us posted OP for dash switch

 

Find some sand or mud or snow or ice, put it in 4LO and engage the ATRAC, then pin the gas. If it’s working you’re going to hear and feel it grinding away like crazy.

 

Just Pulled my dash switch and it looks like that's the issue. With the switch closed there is no contact between any of the pins. I used this document for reference - it's for an FJ swtch which uses one of the larger switches to the left of the steering wheel but the functionality should be similar. I checked all pins just in case the pinout is different on the smaller switch used in our trucks but there was no connection between any of them.

http://www.georgiafjcruiser.com/documents/toyota_fj_cruiser_a-trac_lights_stays_on.pdf

I also pulled the switch apart and measured resistance between the two contacts inside that the wiper connects when closed to be extra sure and there was no connection (infinite resistance) so I'm pretty confident it's the switch. There is a small PCB board inside the switch so I think it's safe to assume that's burnt out. I tried jumping the switch for kicks and giggles but it didn't do anything which would also point to burnt out PCB.

@snowsk8air2 you don't have the PN for your replacement switch by any chance? I see 335-0D98 marked on the switch body but that doesn't appear to be a valid part number and none of the part diagrams I look at show the ATRAC switch mounted under the HVAC controls. I keep thinking I found the switch but then it turns out to be a larger one for to the left of the steering wheel. If I can't dig anything up I'll start calling the dealers in town but their parts departments all suck and usually aren't very helpful.

 

Give me a few min and let me see if I can find the one that I ordered. It’s tough to find and the dealers are useless with searching for the correct switch.

 

Here’s what you need. I kept the old switch and packaging just in case it wasn’t the culprit for me.