Audio system for 2017 double cab

It plugs into the headunit where the speaker output plugs go. Then it has a stretch of wire that you run under carpet to driver seat and it goes into either a line ouput converter or hi level inputs of an amp. With this installed your factory speakers no longer work since you unplugged them from the back of head unit so the output wires on amp need to run to each speaker. You can avoid this if you just want to cut your speaker wires from head unit and tie into that. So basically all it is for is to save cutting factory wires

 

The JL amp requires RCA hook ups but has a switch for high level inputs. I soldered the speed wire speaker outputs to the the RCA cables.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136XDCLR2S/JL-Audio-XD-CLRAIC2-SW.html

 

I simply screwed these into the speedwire worked great too.

 

This is great information, what type of wiring and length would you recommend from amplifier to 4 door speakers and to subwoofer? The tweeters will be powered through the front door speakers I am assuming. Did you purchase new female ends to attach to speakers or just snip close to connector and soldered the new speaker line in?

 

Im sure solscooter can chime in on his. I ran 16g wire to each speaker. I did not power tweeter from front speaker i instead bought components speakers/tweeter set with crossovers. I ran speaker out from amp to the crossover then the crossover has 4 wires coming out so i ran one set from crossover to door speaker and one set goes from component to tweeter. The crossovers are about 2” x4” and fit behind kick panels. 4g power wire and ground with an inline fuse that is as big as the fuse in you amp. So i had tree 30 amp fuses in amp so i bought a 90amp fuse for the power wire.

 

One thing I found on Crutchfield was the following:

High-power amps need bigger wires
For amplifiers with more than 75 watts RMS of output per channel, it may be better to go ahead and run new 14- or 16-gauge speaker wires directly from the amp to each speaker.

Factory speaker wires are very thin, with high electrical resistance, so they can cause noticeable power loss when higher wattages try to get through. But amplifiers of 75-watts or less aren't really affected by this, so running their outputs through factory wiring remains a practical and convenient solution.

 

I think you will be fine with A 50w per channel amp and factory size speaker wire. Yes if its bigger than 75 per channel use 16g. My amp is 50 watts to each channel i can only turn head unit up half way before it hurts my ears. No crackle pure clean sound

 

Figure out where you want the amp to go. Then buy more wire than you think you'll need if you are going to rewire the whole system.

My fronts are components with crossovers. Rewired for the front and rear speakers.

 

If your doing an amp i highly recommend a 6x9 component set and backstraps. Like sollscooter and i did. Rather than a standard 3 way coaxial 6x9. That puts 4 tweeters up front and not as good as just 2. Too much high. New tweeters are a piece of cake to install and the new speaker wire drops straight down through hole to under dash with no fishing and connects to crossover box

 

Yeah I can definetely hear the highs with the 4 tweeters up front. I was hoping to balance out the highs with the Equalizer, keeping stock speaker wiring and running speedwire from head unit to Equalizer then RCA output to the amp.

Now I am thinking components and crossovers.

Might just run the Equalizer since its $65 and I already have the 3-ways. If it doesnt fix it I can go for components and cross over with new wiring.

 

My components have three levels to the highs with a switch on the crossover box. . Low mid high to make more highs go to tweeters. Pretty cool. I have it set in high and need to change it to mid setting i hear too much from dash

 

Damn so the taco tunes kit doesn't run back up and connect to the unplugged stock speaker wires? I liked the idea of running a bundle up to that headhunt rather than run wire to all four doors.

 

Just read the description again and it really sounds like that it retains the stock speaker wire.

https://*********.com/shop/toyota-t...acoma-plug-play-amp-harness-installation-kit/

 

I did this upgrade a few days ago. Totally satisfied, and a great value.

 

Ill sell you my bundle. 15$ plus shipping. Have a 25’ speedwire 9 wire combo sitting in garage.you could run this from anp back up to stock speaker wire if you wanted. Or you could just tap the wires. Tap front speaker wires behind front kick panels. Tap rear speakers under front driver and pssenger floor panels.

 

Ok so ordered the Kicker CS Series 6x9 Component Speakers. Removed the Equalizer from my cart and also purchased 10 feet of 12g wiring for sub and 60 feet of 16g wiring for speakers.

 

I’ll take the speedwire if OP doesnt want it.

 

Same speakers i have. They are loud for the price point. U need two backstraps from crutchfield for tweeters to mount to factory bolts. What amp did u buy?

 

Got em! Ordered 4 just in case. I went with the Pioneer I listed on page 1. Got a lot of good reviews and should power what I plan to run.

 

I originally ran that pioneer... no hiccups and did a good job pushing my previous sub.