Austin's Supercharged Mid Travel Build

Luckily it has a lifetime warranty so I'll swap the part and give that a try.

I think I'll also try swapping ignition coil A and B and see if the code follows the ignition coil over to B. Seems like a good way to isolate if the issue is really in the ignition coil or not.

I fixed it by replacing the ignition coil pack A.

The valve is making a liquidy sound as well as a clicking sound. It's not super loud. I can hear it in the drivers seat very faintly.

 

That valve is one of the doors in the HVAC and is probably operated by an actuator motor of some kind on a 2004. My 99 doesn't have that, it's all manual but my 2004 Ram uses actuator motors for all the doors in the HVAC system. They do go bad sometimes so you might have to dig into the dash/HVAC system to remedy that problem. That white arm operates the door, if you can disconnect the motor from it, you can verify if the door moves freely or not and rule that out. If it does, then the actuator motor is the issue.

 

Thanks for the info. I have noticed my HVAC system hasn't been working all that great lately. I wonder if that's the culprit...

 

Update:

Swapped the new ignition coil A to B, and put the B ignition coil on A and the truck started running fine again.

Any idea why this would be? It's my understanding that all ignition coils are the same.

 

Hopefully it's just the actuator and not the door itself. If it's the door that is having issues, then you have to tear the whole dash out to get the the HVAC system. It's a pain in the ass, I had to do it on my Ram to fix broken doors.

 

Ah shit yeah hopefully it's not that! So by disconnecting the door from the servo I can determine weather it's the servo or the door that's bad correct? If the door is having issues will it just be stuck and not want to move?

 

Most likely, that would be the case. You should be able to hear the door move when you move it by hand. And with the servo disconnected, you could test that too by playing with the various controls for the HVAC and see if it does anything.

 

Pull the coil packs and check the resistance in the with a meter. I can't 100% remember what they are supposed to be but I have a photo somewhere ill dig up.

Sounds like the servo or the switch for the vents is bad. Electrical problem for the HVAC which can either be simple or near impossible to find

 

Already checked out all the coil packs with a meter. The one the truck was throwing a code for was bad, but even after replacing I'm still getting the same symptoms and code. Last night I moved the new coil pack from A to B, and put the one that was on B onto A thinking it would throw a error for B if the coil pack was the issue. The truck drove fine today on my way to class, but on the way home died and threw the p0351 code for coil A once again. So now it seems like the issue is something else, which is really strange because the original coil pack that I replaced was in fact bad.

 

Maybe the truck ICM isnt going from start mode to run mode thus dumping too much voltage into coil a?

 

Have you check the ECU ground in the engine bay?

 

Also check the gaps on you spark plugs? if they are over gapped that could cause issues maybe.

 

Possibly, is there a way to test to see if this is the case?

 

I have not. Do you know where the ground is located?

 

It was on the intake that you replaced with the blower. Driver side. Was bolted right to the bend of the intake and should now be bolted to the blower on the side.

 

https://itstillruns.com/test-ignition-control-module-8000853.html

 

Checked the ground and it was all good. Went ahead and cleaned it up anyways.

I just swapped the spark plugs that A fires over to B, and the plugs that B fires over to A. The truck started running fine again. I guess I just have to drive it and wait to see if it now throws a code for B. If so then I can rule it out to being the spark plugs, and if it throws another code for A then it's probably the igniter.

 

Yeah

I’m really wondering if the ICM is failing. That’s why it’s dying after driving it a while. Stuck on start up mod and frying out the coils. I think they run like 200-300? Maybe buy a new one and see if it changes anything. If not return it

 

Seems like that's what's most likely the issue. I would think that a spark plug, coil pack, or wiring issue would be consistent. The ICM seems like the only thing that could cause intermittent issues.

 

Lately I've been thinking about taking the pump and water lines out of my engine bay, and building a shower box instead. I could mount the pump in a box with clip on battery connectors and keep the water lines in there as well. I'd just put quick disconnects on the heat exchanger to quickly connect and disconnect the water lines. It would be easy to just grab when going camping / road trips.

I use my ARB air compressor (which is currently mounted in a box) a lot more than I use the shower, so I think it would make more sense to mount the ARB compressor in the engine bay, and the shower in the box the compressor is in.

This would also help free up some room for when I re-install my second battery in the back passenger side of the engine bay.