Auto Locker in FRONT of 1st gen.

So I've been searching around and have found numerous threads on various sites regarding auto lockers in the front of our 1st gens. I've found some answers but other things were touched on but not really answered.

This is what I got from the discussions. Selectable lockers (ARB) is highly recommended over a auto or full spool, which I knew. Price and simplicity are my reasons for choosing a auto.

Next is if you go with a front locker, it's highly advised that you have manual locking hubs. Well this is where my questions start. I would love to have manual hubs but for the price of converting and getting a auto locker I'd be better off just getting a ARB. Now I ask why is a Auto locker not advisable with ADD?

It's been touched on but it seems people are confused with exactly how the ADD works.

1. Will I notice the locker in 2wd? Some say no, others say yes. I understand my axles are connected to the hubs and always turning but it's my understanding that the ADD disconnects the passenger side axle so it's not like if the locker engages (which it's not supposed to unless under load but could happen I guess) that my 2 front wheels will be locked together...all I can see happening is if it locks up in 2wd my drivers wheel will lock and my front driveshaft will turn. Maybe I'm wrong. So I can't see how it would affect driving in 2wd.

2. In 4x4. This is a different story. From the way the lockers are described they really shouldn't lock up unless under decent load but I'm from Canada and see a shit load of snow, which I understand auto lockers + snow/ice = another roll over for me. My question is regarding overriding the ADD. I've read a little bit on how people have been able to rig their ADD to a switch but I still have to read more into it. If I understand correctly though, if I can wire my ADD to a switch using 4x4 with the auto locker would essentially be like having manual hubs and having the drivers side locked and the passenger side free. Not as good as true manual hubs but a hell of a lot better than having both wheels lock up when I don't want them to. Then by switching the ADD on it would lock the passenger axle, kind of like a red neck selectable locker. So does anyone have input regarding overriding the ADD and if the locker would function as I think it would by doing this?

3. Aussie vs Spartan? As I understand it Aussie has proven itself where as Spartan is somewhat new. Spartans are said to have bigger pins. Anyone have input on either of these 2?

I still have lots of questions and need to learn more about the whole deal but I'll leave it here for now.

 

I have an Aussie front locker in mine, but I have manual hubs. I love it, but do not like the noise. I put up with it, but I don't like it. Eventually I will go with an ARB.

As for your question about the ADD and a mechanical locker. Yes, there are issues. Of course I won't leave it at that, I will explain it.

The ADD disconnects one side of the drive output (The right side) so the end result, with an open differential, is that the left CV shaft, while rotating, will simply spin the spider gears inside the carrier housing. This does nothing, as they are well lubricated. Now install a mechanical locker. Part of what a mechanical locker does is obviously to allow drive power to go to both front wheels. It does this by basically replacing the factory spider gears with a mechanical lock.

Why does this cause a problem in an ADD front differential?

Without spider gears being allowed to spin, the ENTIRE carrier on the inside turns. This in turn will spin the front drive shaft (ring gear will spin the pinion gear) which will then force-drive the chain in the transfer case. This will shortly cause damage to the transfer case itself as when it is in 2wd, the system does not lubricate properly if the drives haft is force spun.

So no, you should not install a mechanical locker in an ADD front differential.

 

Ok thanks. So it's basically what I was thinking except I wasn't taking into account the wear on the transfer case. It still makes me wonder of how much this would be a issue though. In your case with manual hubs, if you lock both your front hubs and drive in 2wd does the locker really lock up that often? I could see maybe on some sharp turns or with brakes applied but I wouldn't think it would happen very often. Shouldn't it just ratchet in most cases?

Also I'm surprised to hear of the noise issues. I know all auto lockers have noise but from my research it seemed as though Aussie was one of the quietest ones and people were saying they could hardly ever hear it in the front.

 

On mine, it is locked and holding at all times when driving. It will ratchet or "pop" whenever I am in any type of turn. This is not a LSD that grips when traction starts to slip, this is a locker that stays engaged all the time and ratchets whenever the front is in a turn and binding. The ratcheting allows the binding to release.

 

Ok thanks for clearing that up. I'll have to think about what to do. The truck is not my DD any more so it's not like it sees a whole lot of driving. I wasn't aware the transfer case doesn't get properly lubed if just the front driveshaft turns, so that would be a issue. I could throw it in 4x4 occasionally to lube it but I'm not sure how much it would help.

Might look into doing a junkyard manual hub swap as well.

 

Hey Guys,

sorry to revive a dead thread but I'm having trouble finding an answer to my question. I have an 01 DC tacoma with ADD...But I don't have anti-lock brakes, and I'm wanting to install an autolocker up front. so I've located the right cv axles from a 2000 taco. My question is, Since I don't have ABS, can I just install the new axle shafts into the spindle and then bolt on the manual hubs?

OR

do I need to swap other things on the spindle too?

 

You need to press out your old wheel hubs and press in manual wheel hubs. ADD wheel hubs do not have threads to hold on the manual lock hubs. You would also have to press in new wheel bearings as they get destroyed when you press out the ADD wheel hubs.